For some seriously excellent Northern Sardinian cuisine, get away from the beaches and head for the hills. Il Muto di Gallura is as good as "agroturismo" gets and the setting among the soaring rocks outside Tempio Pausania just adds to the occasion. It's a set menu with unlimited red and white wine – so bring a designated driver. Also, a hearty appetite because you won't go away hungry. The wine is excellent as are the cured meats, cheeses, breads, pickles, pastas, goat, roast pork, pastries, tiramisu and grappa, all produced on the farm or nearby. In summer there's the added pleasure of the light fading behind the spectacular rocks over Aggius. At €35 a head it's an occasion, but worth every cent.
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