My Trip Report
Yelapa is indeed a beautiful, special place. However, I think i may have experienced it at its most 'special', as I was there for 'la primera lluvia' (the first rains) of the summer. Let's just say Yelapa had lots of visitors as a result of the rains, and they weren't human visitors, either...
Spent the night in Puerto Vallarta, at Posada Roger. Great place, very pretty courtyard and pool area, good location (2 blocks from pier). I enjoyed being in that pretty part of P.V. for an evening. I'd recommend the hotel, except that the beds are horrible! LIke rocks. If you sleep like a rock, i guess you're ok then. But it's very clean and friendly.
On the boat to Yelapa next morning, happened to share the boat with Yelapa's resident published author and his wife, Robert and Catherine, from California. They moved to a house next to the yacht club, permanently, and have never been happier. Very sweet people, and they let me use their internet one day, which i was grateful for. Beautiful boat ride over.
Arrived at Casa Playita, right next to pier, and met Rosita, the owner. Very, very sweet woman. I probably understood about 10% of what she said (my Spanish is very limited), but it was good practice. Casa Playita Arriba is SO wonderful! Much more 'open air' than I'd expected, and gorgeous views of bay and village, and there was a nice breeze going on. I never felt like i was 'inside' the whole trip, which was kind of nice. Showered while looking out onto the Passionfruit tree (i probably could have grabbed one while shampooing). Lovely. And did I mention that Rosita and Ambrocio are possibly the nicest, most welcoming, most helpful people I've ever met? I'd like to be adopted by them.
I was tired and hungry, and went into town to find food. NO idea that just about nothing would be open (for lunch, anyway, on a weekday in June)! And it was so hot (a foreshadowing of the coming rains) that i thought, maybe I've made a mistake? I was there alone, couldn't find food...What to do? Rosita graciously offered me some lunch, but i finally went down to beach and ate at one of the cafes there. Ahhh....lovely beach!
Returned home just before the torrential rains hit. Never seen such a big thunderstorm--crazy rain, lightening and thunder for at least three hours. And power outage for most of it. I loved it! So cool being up in Arriba looking out over the sea, having everything light up every few minutes, and hearing whoops in the street. First rains! Ambrocio brought up candles, and it was really quite cozy and romantic (well, i was there by myself, but you get the idea).
Next day, headed to beach. As I'm walking there, i hear a scuttling. Scuttling! Yes, the hermit crabs. They are ALL OVER. Climbing stairs, dropping down stairs, all along the paths, all over the beach...It's crazy! I don't mind the crabs; they're very entertaining, actually, but the next day it gets a little freakish: they're making their way into the casas...Not into mine, thank god, but ok, i admit that i attempted to stay at another place for a night, because there was loud construction behind Casa Playita (and often loud music being played--i know, Mexican village!), and as i was going to bed, there was a crab on the BED! Back to casa playita i went! Music ok, crabs in bed NOT ok.
Anyway, I planted myself at Lagunita's chaise area that morning. Lovely and quiet, under rustling palapas. Really good food at their restaurant. I think i might be spoiled by the quiet in June--It'll probably seem busy if i return in winter! Headed back in the afternoon in yet another torrential rain. But a warm rain! Saw kids playing soccer in the playita and jumping in the sea with glee. But, now other animals start appearing: tonight, termites. A cloud so thick of them outside my door (well, they entered the casa, as it's open air, eventually) i was freaked out! Finally ventured out later to Ramona's, only place open in village, for absolutely delicious tacos de camarones (shrimp)--SO good! And SO cheap! Probably cheapest food in village. Only some Mexican guys sitting in there, and there was a terrible American movie being shown on the TV, too. So funny, and so real.
Oh, and then came the frogs. Big frogs, hopping all over the paths and gardens, having stare-downs with the crabs. So funny. Didn't mind them so much, as they didn't come into the casas. The crabs are fearless--frogs, not so much.
Whew. Ok, Saturday, gorgeous, clear day, low humidity, just beautiful. The whole place feels 'washed' by the rains, and I can really see the beauty of Yelapa. Spend part of the day again at Lagunita, swimming in the gorgeous sea. Ah, but the fourth plague of animals appears: The jellyfish! So tiny, yet so many. Little stings, so i don't return to the sea. I enjoy walking back to the village via the path behind the beach--so lush, gorgeous flowers, etc.
That night, have dinner at Pollo Bollo (open for the weekend!!) with Fernando, owner of Manta Ray (where i considered staying for a night). GREAT food, GREAT margaritas. Crave one right now. Sunset from Manta Ray deck is unbelievable. I highly recommend that place, by the way--perfect location, gorgeous views. Didn't stay there, but would in the future. Fernando will also take you out fishing, diving, etc. for very reasonable rates.
Next day--clear, beautiful, low humidity again. YES!!! Clear sea, too. Absolutely perfect. Spend lots of time on beach, and meet Pamela, a lovely woman who lives in Yelapa (via Mexico City, via Chile) with an adorable, fat baby boy (and adorable 5 year old girl) who, i later find out, is the town veterinarian. Really wonderful. Perhaps it's due to her, but i found that the 'stray' dogs--and there are a lot--all looked wonderfully healthy and happy. Nice to see.
Next morning, I have lovely fruit salad (mango, papaya, passionfruit, etc.) with Rosita and Ambrocio, and then head to the pier for the boat to P.V. Definitely sad to leave. Really enjoyed the authentic village, practicing Spanish, meeting such lovely people who love where they live. I definitely didn't take advantage of all that Yelapa has to offer, but the little animals did, I think...;)
p.s. As a sidenote: I loved Casa Playita, but I also loved Hotel Lagunita for the complete tranquil atmosphere and rustic ambience. I'd consider staying there, especially when it's summer and the village doesn't have much that's open.