Have been to this amazing city only once, briefly and superficially.
I want to return in a couple of weeks for 10 days and request ANY seasoned guidance as to:
1. place to stay - modestly priced, but clean and central (hotel, apartment or bed & breakfast)
2. essential sights
3. special restaurants - uniquely authentic, personality, value? - whatever
4. take train or fly from Kiev?
I will not drive again on what they laughably call "highways" in Ukraine! The roadway is in actuality closely-spaced bomb craters.
The train is cheap and clean and scenic, but takes FOREVER. Is is smart to fly or resign oneself to the train? Or, are their fast, modern buses?
Again, I would greatly appreciate any suggestions?