Having spent three full days exploring hidden trails and temples, mainly devoid of other tourists, I'm starting to realise that my driver is a total gem. His English is great and his car is new with top notch air conditioning but best of all, he knows what time the tourist buses hit the various sites, and he's very good at avoiding them. He's also great with tips on making quick exits from temples etc that mean avoiding the hawkers and souvenir stalls and telling me how much I should pay for things or whether or not I need a guide. On the way to places like Gunung Kawi or Tampaksiring, he filled me in on the stories and history behind them, it certainly makes for a much richer experience. In the space of three days we've driven through the scenic, traffic-free back roads to Bedugal, GitGit, Munduk, Jatuliweh, shopped in Candikuning (I got Kadek to bargain for my fruit), done some urban exploring in a deserted hotel in the mountains, viewed Kintamani, Batur and Agung from a seriously high temple where it was just me, an old priest and some sacred stones, eaten in mountain view restaurants where the food was incredible and we had an entire floor to ourselves.... it goes on. It's been really useful having all of his inside knowledge and he's also been great company. The other useful thing is that he carries his Blackberry so you can email questions as you're planning your trips and he'll tell you what works or not (sometimes what looks possible on the map, isn't necessarily feasible in reality). He always responds very quickly.
The guy is a total gem. If anyone wants his details, just message me. Or you can try and find him near the Champuan Bridge, his name is Kadek Suastika.