I went on the Upper Ganges cruise at the end of 2010 from patna.
The ship was very disappointing, both in itself and the daily programmes. Although the information says that when moored we would be welcome to come and go ashore as we pleased and that the country boat is only occasionally used to go ashore, we only moored against the shore twice the rest of the time we had to use the country boat and for two of our afternoons in Patna we moored against a sandbank with nowhere to go as it was well out in the river. At other stopping places we were anchored away from the shore and couldn’t come and go, which is what we particularly enjoy and wanted to do. Several other guests made the same comments.
Although the cabin windows had mosquito nets and there was a vaporising mosquito deterrent in the cabin which gave the impression of mosquito protection, the nets were ineffective as there were big gaps (15-20mm) between the net frame and the timber window surrounds, and the vaporising mosquito deterrent didn’t work for most of the night as the generator was switched off from about 11pm to 6am. Several passengers said they had mosquitoes in their cabins at night. The sliding cabin windows were poorly maintained and didn’t work.
The overall impression was that the ship had been built and/or was being run either incompetently or on the cheap or both. The management seemed inexperienced and just didn’t have a clue about organising river cruising.
On the visit to the cattle fair on the first day several of us asked if we could leave our tuk-tuk on the return journey and walk through the villages we had passed through on the way there. We were told by the chief guide that this was not possible and there would be plenty of other opportunities to visit villages. During the following days we and others kept repeating the request to visit villages or towns and see local life, but it never happened, even though it could easily have been arranged. The chief guide and ship manager just didn’t want to bother. They much preferred only to take us on vehicle drives, mostly to various similar ancient sites, and didn‘t even want to stop at interesting places on the way, such as Bakhtiarpur (where it was market day!). On the penultimate day and after an easy village visit could have been arranged we had pathetic excuses for why this hadn’t been done, I had a blazing row with the chief guide and ship manager about their incompetence. The result was that we eventually went ashore at Farraka village on the last evening just before it started to get dark, which curtailed even that visit.
There was so much that was wrong or could have been improved. The ship’s management seemed to have no imagination. My wife and I said to each other how we would love to take over the ship and sort out the ship itself and the shore excursions and bring them up to decent standards.
I’m no health and safety freak but safety on the ship gave us considerable cause for concern.No liferafts were evident on the Sukapha and next day I asked where they were. The first reply from the ship manager was “What’s a liferaft?” After I’d explained it to him he said they had no liferafts but relied on the country boat. This boat is totally inadequate for the safe evacuation of over 50 passengers and crew and was not always with the ship, sometimes for hours on an excursion.
The generator being turned off at night meant that there were no anchor lights, no anti-mosquito vaporisers, no searchlight, and no water pressure. There were safety lights in the cabins powered by a central battery, but these seemed to become ineffective after about 3am. . The fridges and freezers presumably were not working for about seven hours every night which would be a concern especially when the were getting empty.
The Ganges is a fast flowing and sometimes turbulent river. With fuel on board for the engines and also for the kitchen the most likely reason for evacuating the ship would be fire, which is probably most likely to start in the kitchen or a passenger cabin. There is quite a lot of timber in the ship’s construction.
There is no way that the ship is properly equipped to deal with such a situation or to safely be evacuated. The management seemed to think that putting “wearing lifejackets” on the daily schedule every time we went on the country boat was all they needed to do to meet their responsibilities.
The above complaints were sent to the Assam Bengal Navigation Company but I have never received a reply