There are Mara River crossings both in Kenya and Tanzania. In Tanzania, they occur in the Kogatende area in the far north roughly between August and October. Some of the animals move into Kenya; others stay in Tanzania during this period -- but there's a lot of action most days and your chances of seeing a crossing are reasonably good in either country. Be aware that it's frequently necessary to sit for many hours nearby an assembled herd, waiting while they meander about aimlessly trying to decide whether or not to actually cross. They crossing itself may take a mere 10 minutes, but it is an exciting 10 minutes and the chance of seeing it once is worth the investment in a safari of 10 days or more. For a short safari, I simply wouldn't want to make that investment of time and money for a 10-minute reward. I found the other wildlife at Kogatende rather sparce last year (we were there at the end of August and saw two crossings).

We'll be returning to Tanzania for our 5th safari there (6th total, as our first was in South Africa), but will go again this time in February, to include the wonderful Ndutu during the spectacle of the birthing season on the short grass plains of the Serengeti. This spectacle -- though not hard-pounding in the way a crossing can be -- is, in my view, even more astonishing than the iconic Mara or Grumeti crossings, with loads of predators hoping to take advantage of the bounty of new calves, the plains still in deep green and wildflowers from the short rains in November/December, and the air fresh. Our favorite time in Tanzania, and, I think, the most beautiful.

If you're looking to May, I'd recommend late may -- perhaps even into early June. You'l likely encounter some very wet roads, perhaps some washed out and likely some very bad black cotton soil mud if you go in early May, but by .late May the sun may well have begun to dry up the surface water. You'll still have the green lushness and lack of the choking dust which sometimes curses July-September. But it's unlikely the migration herds will yet be crossing the Grumeti. They'll probably be spread out a bit from the central or Kusini area into the western corridor, though -- easy enough to find and certainly worth seeing in herds of many thousands -- you won't be able to count them, anyway -- and the'll be accompanied by young calves, sprightly and adorable and enough to make you forget you're "missing" one of those crossings.

Yup -- the north is pricey -- though there are a few "mid-priced" camps up there, but you sure don't want to be in Kogatende in May. In fact, I gather most camps are closed at that time -- it's low, low season up thataway, as the migration isn't in residence and the rains have left the area soggy and somewhat less appealing. The mobile camps are still located in the south and some of the permanent camps use this time to do maintenance, take vacations, etc.

My advice is to pick a time that's best for you and design your itinerary -- not around some iconic image you have of what "Africa" is supposed to be -- but, rather, around the high points of the northern circuit itself. Depending upon how much time you have (and your budget), you should try for Tarangire National Park for a couple of nights, perhaps Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater for a night each, and then a few nights in the central Serengeti and a few more in whatever area of the Serengeti is most likely going to be hosting the migration herds while you're around. If you have more time, add perhaps an extra day at Tarangire, or in the Serengeti, or wander off to more exotic parts of the country. Spend some time, perhaps, visiting locals schools or orphanages, villages, tribes . . . but I suggest you not think of the crossings as the focal point of your safari. There's no guarantee that even if you're in the right place at the right time, the animals will comply. We sat at one site for more than four hours before the herds began to retreat entirely, deciding they didn't want to cross, after all. It's a huge investment of time when you could be out seeing lots of other wonderful wildlife doing lots of wonderful things.

I asked many tour operators also about the migration and received pretty much confusion and varied answers..so when I reached out here sandyleelee gave me what I needed to know!!! Her response has never changed so I am thinking she knows more on the subject than the tour operators!!!

The more I think about your timing, the more I think you should aim for a 10-day safari early-June to include:

2 nights Tarangire

1 night Lake Manyara (stay in Karatu or nearby)

1 night Ngorongoro Crater (stay on the Crater rim)

3 nights central Serengeti

3 nights Western Corridor

Fly back to Arusha

If flying back doesn't fit into your budget, you might do it this way:

2 nights Tarangire

1 night Manyara

3 nights Central Serengeti

2 nights Western Corridor

2 night Ngorongoro Crater

drive back to Arusha last day.

Depending upon the rains, you might have a chance of a Grumeti crossing -- but, in any case, you'd see LOADS of wildlife, the terrain would be lush and beautiful everywhere, and the migration would be somewhere within reach of either the Seronera or the west.

Ten days are (just) enough to get you as far as Kogatende in the north if you are set on a Mara crossing try, but be aware that you'll spend the better part of a day to reach the area from the central Serengeti. It is a LONG way north, and you'd definitely need to fly back to Arusha from there. In 10 days it would be very difficult to work in Kogatende driving all the way. It can be done, but you'd be racing around and not seeing much.

When you spend the many dollars required for safari in the first place, your goal should be to maximize the value of every dollar spent -- and time really is money. You'll be paying for every minute you spend in-country, so you don't want to waste a lot of those minutes in racing to get to your next camp or lodge before dinner. You want to feel excited, but relaxed -- and certainly not rushed. For a first safari, in particular, I advise keeping your expectations in check as much as possible and anticipating that things might not go exactly as planned. Vehicles break down. Guides can get sick. Animals can thwart your dreams. Roads can wash out. And trying to drive from Kogatende back to Arusha to catch a flight home would require dedicating two full days to the process and not knowing, even then, if you'd make it in time.

Our own sojourn up to Kogatende (our first out of 4 safaris) was on an 18-day safari, giving us plenty of time to get there, spend three full nights (two full days), and fly out. And even then, our plane could have been delayed, our flight postponed till the next day. Hakuna matata: "This is Africa." And we love it.

Here are a few pics of Central to Western Serengeti during late May 2014.

http://feni-and-amok.blogspot.com/2014/05/migrating-herds-vultures-and-crocodiles.html

And the amazing Serengeti in general:

http://feni-and-amok.blogspot.com/2014/05/endless-serengeti-plains.html

Enjoy..!!

We were in Kogatende area from 21st - 25th Sept and saw 7 crossings. This wasn't our main focus and when our guide asked us what we wanted to see, we said anything really and if we see a crossing, that's a bonus. After seeing 7, we were well and truly hooked! The landscape is awesome, the river, rolling hills, flat open plains and huge kopjes, loved the north and if truth be known, prefer it to central Serengeti. Can't wait to go back and envy anyone going this year. Enjoy.

While SandyLeeLee provided great info, make note that during the May/June period where she places emphasis on the Western Serengeti for a crossing, often the Grumeti doesn't have sufficient water for a crossing. Another issue, regardless which period, be aware that it can rain in the so-called 'dry' period, and if it does the game can and often does move from one side of the border to the other.... can be in No. Serengeti (Kogatende) or in the Masai Mara.

As animals and often dependent on weather can do strange things where and when they wish.

That is so painfully true, Sandi -- it's why I tend always to suggest not basing one's safari on the expectations of any particular outcome -- including a crossing or being in the "right" place at the "right" time. Even prior to global warming, nature wasn't absolutely predictable, and these days it's becoming even more so, I think.

I read yesterday, I think, that the herds had left Ndutu and moved towards central and then a huge storm came in and the herds were returning to Ndutu. The rains control most everything and they aren't coming as predictably from year to year at the same time.

With safari, it's always best to try hard not to have specific expectations and to come with the understanding that nature will reveal to you what she wants to reveal, when she wants to reveal it. An open mind and heart are the two most important things to pack. Also, a sense of humor .

Even after 20yrs I've yet thought about least of all seen a full-blown crossing. Have I missed something? Maybe, but find that Nat Geo does a darn good job... and I've never bemoaned not having seen the migration. Granted, have seen a few wildies cross part of a river, but not sufficient to write home about.

Only last year did I see a large pack of painted dogs.... now that was a surprise and exciting. So, when it comes to nature, I plan nothing and am pleasantly surprised if something/anything happens as there is so much to enjoy.

Wholeheartedly agree! I spent so much time researching it just to try to figure out what was true since I didn't want to get duped by any TO's!

And agreed Sandy's responses have been so helpful!