Molokai is wonderful! I can't say this enough! It's like visiting a tiny coastal town in the US south, but on a gorgeous tropical island. I didn't go there for fancy this and that, I went there because I wanted peace and quiet away from a tourist hell-hole. Here are some things to consider if you decide to go:
--Everything is very, very, VERY expensive! Budget a lot for groceries especially. In hindsight, I should have arranged for a produce box from a local farm and bought more items in bulk from Outpost Natural Foods.
--Do plenty of research online before you go. visitmolokai.com has a wealth of information that is mostly up to date.
--Be flexible! Some things might be closed, or activities discontinued, even if the website says otherwise.
--If you want to go on a guided hike or tour, arrange it in advance to be on the safe side, but there are no guarantees (see my Halawa Valley review.)
--If you want fresh fish you should catch it yourself or chat up the locals and hope somebody will sell you some of their catch.
--Restaurants are basic, not open late, and don't take credit cards so plan to cook for yourself most of the time.
--You need a rental car and you will drive a lot. A 4WD is necessary if you plan to go off a paved road at all.
--Everybody has roosters so bring earplugs if you like to sleep in.
--Nobody is in a hurry and stores close early.
--Hiking to/from Kaluapapa will make you sore for DAYS!
--Every amazing beach I went to was completely EMPTY!
--People are friendly if you are friendly!
I found Molokai to be a land of contrasts, from the terrain to the people. I was blown away by so much beauty, and saddened by so much poverty and neglect. I sincerely hope the residents are able to continue successfully fending off the ugly tourist infrastructure plaguing the other islands, and build sustainable businesses to help lift their fortunes. There is a palpable sense of pride coming from the people of Molokai, even if the junked out cars and litter might lead you to believe otherwise. As more than one person told me, "Molokai is special" and I have to agree. It's not too late to right the wrongs of harmful exploitation and restore the land and people to their former glory. Go here if you want to see a living, breathing Hawaii. Don't go here if you want to visit a shopping mall on the beach.