In June 2006, we rode the Glacier Express from Zermatt to Chur (we got off early so we could ride north to Zurich and then later rode the Bernina Express from Chur through St. Moritz to Torino Italy). Both rides were great. The Glacier goes through more tunnels, the Bernina rides more over the mountains.
I can't speak to which one is better, but I enjoyed staying in Zermatt prior to departing on the train. We arrived in Zermatt in the afternoon via Bern and explored the town. After a day of hiking and exploring, it was nice to relax the next day. The express leaves Zermatt in the morning, and it happenend to be raining when we left, so the view were not great, but there is so much to see throughout the trip that when the sun did come out, the view were still fabulous.
In Zermatt, We purchased a nice picnic of wine, cheese, bread and chocolates for the trip on the glacier express, so we did not purchase the lunch on board.
FYI, we never were able to see the Matterhorn :-( It was under clouds the entire time we were there.
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