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The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

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Orkanger, Norway
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The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

On the streets in Napoli now. Walked Piazza Carita, Via Toledo and Via Chiaia. Took me 3,5 hours. Had to have some food when I reached Sta Catarina, dropped in a nice pizzeria at Piazza Rodino. Ordered margarita with cooked ham and can of coke. As I am lousy speaker of that English, I got a Margarita, ok, but it was topped by smoked prosciuto. And a liter of agua natural. 

That was much better than I ever could imagine that wooden fired stone owen pizza could be. Delicious inded. 

Then I walked to Sta Maria in Portico via Amadeo metro. Took me only 1 hour. Afterwards I headed to the beach, the man made one just in front of Via Francesco. Only locals, they nursed their tan standing upright. Very strange!!

So homewards Via C. Poerio. And here I finally cracked that Is Napoli safe question, once for all; if you are a tourist, from say Us - and spend your time in Napoli in Centro Storico ONLY, you will indeed experience a dirty, run down city with grafitti on every building and church. This might not be a safe place after dark at least.

On my walk about today, lets say in the area of Via Crispi, this is NOt what the real Napoli looks like. Not by far, this densely populated part with people everywhere, shops, restaurants etc. was utterly clean, no waste or rubbish in the streets, just a nice, welcoming working class neighbourhood - so very nice to be in. I wonder why all smiled at me, the might not have had any visitors from abroad. 

But I had been a fool, booking a hotel in the oldest and dirtyest part of Centro Storico. It hurted me so much that 3 hour walk back from the Crispi area, I had to have a cappucino just by the Incoronata church.  That went well, the man behind the bar, spoke fluent kind of London english. 

My final hour of todays walk was to find my way home from Sta Maria La Nova. Now it was after eight, it was closed. That maze of narrow, dirty, graffity, back alleys was not easy to find a way through. I just packed away my map, and trusted my mountaineer senses, that worked, soon I was home in Via Chiara. I tryed to buy a couple of bananas, but I got three oranges. What did I say wrong. They had some bananas inside the shop, so I eventually got the fruits I wanted. 

Viva Napoli! 2-1 vz Bor. Dortmund. First match champ lega this night. I have never imagined a city could produce so much loudness when their own boys goaled. I almost forgot to eat my taglietelle bolognese with a petit birra spina I was on my way to join the victory dance ;)

Edited: 5:41 pm, September 18, 2013
Hagerstown, Maryland
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1. Re: The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

"I have never imagined a city could produce so much loudness when their own boys goaled."

Ha ha!! I know exactly what you mean. From a Naples trip report I wrote a few years ago....

"When returning from Ischia I decided to get off the boat at Mergellina rather than Beverello, and walk the few blocks to the metro station there. On the way to the station, pandemonium suddenly broke out in a crowded bar up ahead of me. A bunch of people (almost all of them males, it turned out) had their arms in the air and were yelling at the top of their lungs. Then cars driving by began honking their horns repeatedly, and a bunch of firecrackers went off somewhere. As I got closer to the bar, some men streamed out onto the sidewalk, obviously happy about something. One guy stood there, arms and face raised toward the heavens, with a blissful smile on his face. You would have thought his wife had just given birth to the most beautiful baby in the world or something. As I looked at the huge big screen TV in the bar, I figured out that the Napoli soccer team had just scored a goal. Not won the game, but just scored a goal. Although later I think I saw on TV that Napoli had won by a single point, so perhaps that had been the winning goal."

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2. Re: The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

Don't know why you're upset that Naples' historic centre has graffiti - there is archaeological evidence of Greek settlement dating back 3000 years (in Piazza Bellini if you're passing by) - that means 3000 years of continuous occupation by real people - rich, poor and everything in between. There are many ordinary people living there in close quarters and going about their daily lives - it is not quaint or pretty by any means but it is a living, breathing city - not Disneyfied or gentrified. Maybe because you're from Norway where graffiti is seldom seen that it is upsetting for you. Personally, I don't even notice it.

Orkanger, Norway
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3. Re: The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

And you are a destinations expert?? Have you really walked all them small backalleys where people of Napoli really live, say Vico Lammatari ? Just 5 min walk outside centro storico

No offense Kathy - but here is no grafitti at. People are satisfied with their lives, here is no annoying tourists walking by. Kathy - you should try this once, and stop and talk to them - very enligthening!!

That grafitti starts just past Porte Gennaro and is prominent all the way down to Piazza Bovio. I havent yet visited Sta maria Carmine just by Piazza Mercato, maybe I will do at Monday.

Read my soon to follow report from this day. One unexpected experience - the way these working class people living in these dirty run down garbage areas wirh grafitti. My family and I cannot afford to buy such expensive clothes. And we are by no means poor in Norway, we are above middle class earnings with our decent retirement plans.

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4. Re: The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.


I suspect a similar style...........

5. Re: The temperature of Napoli, day one walking.

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