I thought I'd repay the favor of the many helpful posters and posts on this board who helped me plan my trip to San Sebastian and write a brief trip report.
We arrived on Friday July 4th and departed Wednesday July 9. It quickly became apparent to me that this was way too little time to fully appreciate all of the beauty and culture of the region, but we did our best. This is definitely a region I would like to return to-- it so captivated us!
We stayed at a small but very well equipped apartment on Kalea Moraza, booked through Friendly Rentals, which I would HIGHLY recommend. For us renting an apartment worked out perfectly, both in terms of comfort and cost. The location was quiet and so was the apartment (except for an early rising pigeon!) as it was an interior unit. There were many shops and cafes around, and it's only a 15 minute walk to the beach or the center of town. Friendly Rentals was very good to deal with, too. If anyone would like the information for this apartment, please let me know and I'll pass it along!
We ate breakfast in and then went out strolling. After brief snack stops at Paries for gateau basque (the cherry was our favorite and we later returned to buy a large one to take home-- tip: it travels very well!) and Barrenetxe for an elephant ear (a palmier- not sure what it's called in Spanish) and a txintxurro (amazing little muffin with nuts and caramelized on top) we strolled around Parte Vieja and decided to climb up Monte Urgull. We didn't make it all the way to the top-- it was rather warm-- but we made it far up enough for gorgeous vistas of all of San Sebastian. It was definitely the most beautiful day of the time we were there so I'm glad we did it then. After that we had our first taste of pintxos at A Fuego Negro, their little mini hamburgers, gildas, and homemade pickles, along with our first of many (many!) glasses of txacoli. We headed back and got suited up for the beach, where we relaxed among the many beachgoers and dipped our toes in the chilly water. Because it was a Saturday Parte Vieja was PACKED and very rowdy and I failed in my first attempt to secure a place at the bar at Borda Berri. I'm not a naturally assertive person so I couldn't push my way to the bar, so we gave up and headed to Zeruko. Motivated by hunger, I stepped up my game, and bellied up to the bar and started ordering as soon as I could make eye contact with a bartender. We were rewarded with a parade of amazing pintxos, from txipirones to bacalao to cochinillo to lobster and more! Dessert was a gorgeously plated homage to breakfast. After that we waddled home...
I'll post more later.