We noticed that you're using an unsupported browser. The TripAdvisor website may not display properly.We support the following browsers:
Windows: Internet Explorer, Mozilla Firefox, Google Chrome. Mac: Safari.

Loving Lyon

dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Topic
Loving Lyon

Arrived here on the 30 Jan after an uneventful flt and TGV trip from CDG. Weather was warm and sunny...wonderful. We were met promptly at our apt, La Loge des Avocats, in the Vieux Lyon. It's located in a renaissance buidling from the 1400's. We love the apt and we already love Lyon. Spent the first two days wandering about this delightful town, making two visits to the local Arche store to help the economy by partaking in les soldes. We were directed to our first lunch by Jean Luc who met us at our apt. Jeremy Galvan at 29 rue du Boeuf, was around the corner from our apt. gottravel had a delicious cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with chestnut puree- the highlight of our meal. He followed it with a roast pork in wine sauce. Jet lag prevents any distinct memory of any other food. Lunch for two with wine was about €40.  to Be Continued

dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Reply
1. Re: Loving Lyon

That evening we crossed the spectacular pedestrian bridge, Passerelle du Palais de Justice taking us Presqu'ile where we made our first shopping foray for shoes. We wondered into a Wine Bar, L'Ange di Vin on 13 Rue de la Monnaie where we had a lite supper including charcuterie and fromage and small dish of risotto with scallops. We had fabulous bottle of Vacqueyras. This small meal was €41. From there, in our jet lagged state, we made our way back to the apt for a good night's sleep.

To be continued

2. Re: Loving Lyon

-:- Message from TripAdvisor staff -:-

This post was determined to be inappropriate by the TripAdvisor community and has been removed.

To review the TripAdvisor Forums Posting Guidelines, please follow this link: http://www.tripadvisor.com/pages/forums_posting_guidelines.html

Our staff may also remove posts that do not follow our posting guidelines, and we reserve the right to remove any post for any reason. Thanks for being a part of the TripAdvisor travel community!

Removed on: 6:35 pm, February 04, 2013
dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Reply
3. Re: Loving Lyon

Thursday was also a pleasant, sunny day...we seemed to be in luck with the weather, but no doubt that will change. We hit a couple markets buying local cheeses, quiche, bread, salad makings and wine as we planned to dine in that evening. After visit number two to the ARCHE store, we leisurely strolled down Rue de la Republique admiring all the architecture. We sought out the Bouchons on Rue Garet and ended up having lunch at Cafe  For €32 we thoroughly enjoyed quenelles, chicken in red wine sauce, salad and "pot" of whtie wine. Highly recommend this spot.

In preparation for the next two days adventures with bought a Lyon City Card at 

€31 per card for two days. this card provides free access to most museums and all transportation.

In our brief time in Lyon, we are smitten.

Our plan was to devote yesterday, Friday and today, Saturday to those activities included in the Lyon City Card.  We began with the Musee des Beaux-Arts which houses one of France's largest art collections after the Louvre.  The musee sits on the striking place des terreaux with its beautiful Bartholdi fountain.  In the musee one can have an audio guide which provides very helpful info while looking at the art.  Although our tastes run to modernism, we enjoyed the older paintings, in particular, an absolutely stunning Zurbaran portrayal of St Francis.  In particular we recommend the modern artists such as the Dufuys, the Picassos, the Bacons, the Degas and their contemporaries.  We spent several hours here, but one could easily spend much longer.

By now we were getting hungry and stopped at Eric Kayser Boulangier for a quick lunch.  I had pisssaladiere that was very good and GT had a jambon and fromage croissant, also very good.  We sat at the counter watching all the people enjoying their lunch breaks on a sunny afternoon.  From there we took off for the Musee des Tissus and Decorative arts museum.  I love textiles so was looking forward to this museum.  Alng the way we decided to conserve time and hopped on the metro which was very easy to use.  Our city cards gave us free transport.

These museums proved to be somewhat of a disappointment.  There was little in the way of guide material and the rooms were so dark it was often difficult to fully enjoy the work in the textiles.  We thought we were following the map provided and came out at the entrance.  The attendant pointed us thru another doorway for a few more displays.  Then we went thru the gift shop and were on our way. Later reading about the museum we realized we may have missed the furniture displays and likely all or most of the Decorative Musee, but oh we'll, we'll catch up in Paris.

We hopped back on the metro and headed for the funicular which would take us up the hill to the  Fourviere district.  The imposing Basilica had been looking down upon us since arriving in the Vieux Lyon.  Also on this hill is the La Tour Metallique which is supposed to rival the Eiffel tower...no contest here given its modest dimensions.  Today it serves as a TV relay tower.  Views back down the hill and across Lyon are stunning and it's worth a ride or a walk up just for that.

Most interesting on the hill are the remains of two RomanAmphitheaters  and the Musee Gallo Roman which is fascinating.  The museum tells the history of the Roman civilization, Lugdunum, in Lyon.  The building itself appears almost as a bunker and was built in 1975 when it was decided to combine all the roman artifacts in one building,  We were told the amphitheater is still used for rock concerts in the summer

We walked back down the hill, rested and then took off for our dinner at Au Petit Bouchon Georges on 8 Rue du Garet.  The owner was a hoot and thoroughly entertained us throughout our meal.  I started with onion soup that didn't rock my soul. GT had a delicious gateau de foie in a fabulous tomato sauce.  Our mains were local sausage sautéed in Beaujolais with steamed potatoes and Quenelle again, and also delicious again.  We accompanied this with a pot of Cote de Rhone.  We ended the meal with St Marcellin, a local cheese, which is quickly becoming a favorite.  The cost of this feast including a demi pot to go with the cheese was about 60 well spent euros. Highly recommend for the food and the entertainment, but skip the soup.

Edited: 11:26 am, February 04, 2013
Texas
Level Contributor
1,482 posts
90 reviews
Save Reply
4. Re: Loving Lyon

So nice to get a trip report - almost nobody posts those for Lyon.

Lyon, France
Destination Expert
for Lyon
Level Contributor
1,070 posts
53 reviews
Save Reply
5. Re: Loving Lyon

Very nice report and I glad you liked Lyon! And yes, you were extremely lucky with the weather. Sunny sky and temperatures above 15 degrees are unusual for January.

dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Reply
6. Re: Loving Lyon

Overall we have had surprisingly good weather. One very cold day and one misty, cool days, but otherwise pretty nice for winter weather.

Day Two of the City Pass, to Market, to Market and Spinning Round and Round

It was another beautiful day, albeit a touch cooler-a two layer day. We walked the two blocks to the river and crossed the pedestrian bridge to the very large Saturday market on the other side of the bank.  We love French markets and this one was exceptional.  We bought apples, pâté, tapenade, saint Marcellin cheese, moutarde d'lancienne du Miele, eggs, bread, lovely tulips, 3 varieties of local sausages, apple turnover...enough food for an unlikely snow storm.  We took this back to our apt and then took off for the tourist office in hopes of finding some tours of the traboules. Our original plan for two museums didn't work out.   The museums we had thought we might like to see were either closed or lacked exhibits we thought we would like.  The View Lyon tourist office sent us to the central tourist office in Place Bellecour where we picked up audio guides.  Normally they are 20€ for the two, but they were included in our city package.

As we walked towards the tourist office, we couldn't help but be tempted by the large nearby ferris wheel.  For any of you who followed us thru Chile, u will know that one of us does not crave heights shall we say.  But how could we resist going round and round under a blue sky with what might be unsurpassed views of lovely Lyon.  We paid our €5 apiece and were up, up and away.  We were rewarded with views of rooftops and chimneys and the vast sprawling city.  Place Bellecour below us dwindled as we headed toward the top where we sat, being gently rocked by the winter winds....time to come down!  Fair to say the views were spectacular, we even imagined that perhaps we finally caught a glimpse of the alps in the distance.

Once on solid footing we began the tour which took us back to the View Lyon and by our apt where we had all that wondrous food...time for a small, quick lunch.  Lunch was pâté sandwiches with the fabulous mustard and cornichons and some red wine. Fortified by this food, we took off for the reminder of the tour.  The tour took us thru the highlights of the Vieux Lyon including several traboules and explained their history.  Many had mailboxes  that were used by the French resistance during the German occupation.  The tour meandered back across the river toward the opera where we encountered two demonstrations.  The first thanking the French for intervening in Mali.  The second was larger and rather vociferous had demonstrators including small children carrying signs which said "1 enfant = 1papa+ 1 maman.". We assumed it was protesting gay marriage.  Our tour ended at this point.  It was actually a nice way to learn more about various aspects of the town.  It probably took us no more than two hours to complete it.

After our daily nap...almost caught up to French time...we walked around the corner for our 20:30 dinner res at Restaurant les Retrouvailles at 38 Rue du Boeuf.  This was a delightful small, family run restaurant.  We spent our time there chatting with the young couple who lived in Lyon sitting at the adjoining table.  They offered us several suggestions on the food and other restaurants to go to.  The amuse bouche was delicious, a very beefy mushroom broth with tiny ravioli....fabulous.   GT started with a foie terrine and had mignon du porc.  I started with their house salad made with salmon and shrimp, a meal in itself.  My main was scallops in a light white sauce on noodles.  We had st Marcellin cheese and topped this all off with desserts.  And of course a pot of Cote de Rhine rouge.  Portions were immense and the food was excellent.  cost was €60.  Recommend.  feeling totally stuffed we took a walk around the very empty Vieux Lyon quarter and then headed back to our apt.

Lyon, France
Destination Expert
for Lyon
Level Contributor
3,782 posts
36 reviews
Save Reply
7. Re: Loving Lyon

Thank you so much for taking time for a trip report dl!

I loved reading it, it is very informative for your fellow travellers and also very rewarding for us "experts": as Texasstrips says, we almost never have trip reports on Lyon forum...

I'm glad too that you liked the city. If you are interested in Lyon history you could also visit Musée Gadagne, and Musée de la Résistance re WW2 period. I understand that you love the Old City but I also suggest a tour in the historic silk workers hill (Croix-Rousse), with its stunning traboules. There are self guided walks, you could ask for a map at the Tourist office (or just follow the signs, see here how they look like:

www.lyon-les-pentes.com/le-quartier.php…

You know what? May be we met without knowing as I was also at Saint Antoine food market on Sunday (I never miss "my market" when we are in Lyon on the weekend). I also bought food and flowers (choose the mimosa though) , and we had our Sunday family picnic at Buvette du Pont Bonaparte with delicious ham, olives, cheese and bread I bought. May be you've also seen the oysters stand, the guy comes all the way from Sète (at the Mediterranean Sea).

Enjoy the rest of your stay!

dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Reply
8. Re: Loving Lyon

We figured there were not a lot of TR so writing ourmstaynmight help,future travelers. We enjoyed the Resistance Museuem and thought it an excellent museum. CR was anti dead yesterday when we walked around there. Bad timing with it being a Monday and a dreary day.

Sorry, but we will miss the chocolate.

A Sunday Stroll in the Cold

Sunday had a slow start. The temperature had plunged 15 degrees from the previous morning. We began by making omelets with caramelized shallots, roasted red peppers and some soft market cheese. Fabulous! (We'd roasted the peppers and caramelized the shallots Thursday after our initial excursion to the farm market had resulted in us having to buy them in bulk...the farmers had refused to sell them individually, so we'd ended up with seven long red peppers and about sixteen large gorgeous shallots.)

After our second cup of coffee & writing up the previous day's adventures, we bundled up for the cold and left for the Vieux Lyon metro stop. We road the line about six stops, exiting at the Monplaisir-Lumiere stop. Today's destination was the thirty or so outdoor murals ("Murs peints Les Cites Ideales") in a Tony Garnier-designed housing complex near the Musee Urbaine Tony Garnier. Garnier had been something of an idealist who'd had the then revolutionary idea that properly designed housing led to happy tenants. We trudged through the cold for about a mile to arrive at the complex. The murals, added long after the complex had been built, ranged from the exquisite (a whimsical depiction of Quebec as a Cite Ideale) to the pedestrian (industrial scenes & overlays of architectural plans onto the sides of the buildings). Lyon has various murals throughout the city, including some acclaimed trompe l'oile murals; although nice at times, these weren't among the best.

We left the murals and walked up to Ave Berthelot and, after some fumbling with the ticket machine, bought tram tickets to the T-2 Tramway. Our next destination was the Centre d'Histoire de la Resistance et de la Deportation, located in a former medical school on the banks of the Rhone. This building had been the Gestapo headquarters for the Lyon area during the Occupation; it was here that Klaus Barbie had tortured Resistance hero Jean Moulin, resulting in Moulin's later death. The exhibitions at the Centre were comprehensive, fascinating and almost overwhelmingly detailed. There's a written English guide available at the front desk - a necessity as all of the displays are labeled only in French. (Some of the accompanying short films are dubbed in English.). We spent over an hour in the Centre and emerged profoundly moved. After that we crossed the Rhone to Presqu'ile and walked up and back to our apartment in Vieux Lyon, stopping once for espresso and hot chocolate. Back in the apartment, we fixed a light lunch.

Later that same day...

We wanted to sample Paul Bocuse's cooking and had chosen one of his brasseries, Le Sud, for dinner.  We walked Le Sud, passing what looked like many charming local eateries on Rue des Marronniers near Place Bellecour.  We turned the corner onto Place Antonin Poncet and came upon Le Sud, located almost at the banks of the Rhone. Le Sud was a decidedly modern looking restaurant with very few customers inside.  After checking out the menu, we decided it wasn't what we were in the mood for.  We cancelled our reservation and headed back to Rue des Marronniers where we had passed Aux 3 Cochons.

Aux 3 Cochons was exactly what we were in the mood for - a cozy, crowded, casual restaurant.   We started with an onion tarte and a salad with chaud chèvre and walnuts.  Both of us had sausccion with steamed potato accompanied by a cream sauce.  Dessert was fromage blanc and Lyonnaise cake. While the cake was delicious the cheese fell under the category of one should try everything at least once.  Of course the meal was accompanied by a pot of Beaujolais.  GT finished off the meal with an armagnac, his first of the trip. All in all, a very nice meal for €59.

After dinner we thought we might walk up to the Place des Terreaux to see it lit up.  However the night proved to be too cold for an evening stroll and we headed home. 

dl
Washington, DC
Level Contributor
1,126 posts
108 reviews
Save Reply
9. Re: Loving Lyon

Misty Monday in Lyon

One of the more delightful things about long vacations is that one can pretty much waste a day without feelings of regret.  And that is how we spent much of our day.  Aided by the overcast sky, we again slept in.  It was almost 11:00 before we left the apartment.

We crossed the Pont de la Feuille to Presqu'ile and wandered towards Place Terreaux and its marvelous fountain.  Many of the shops - we liked this area for its trendy feel - were closed as it was Monday.  We planned on going to Le Garet on rue Garet to make dinner reservations; instead, we got sidetracked at Chez Hugon on rue Pizay.  Our intention was to have a light lunch.  It was only after we were seated and had ordered a demi pot of Cotes de Rhone that we discovered one could not order a la carte.  So we opted for the 25€ fixed price menu, the least expensive option.  YT had a delicious pate as an entree and chicken stewed with vinegar as a plat.  I had a lentils with heated sausage as a entree and a gateau of liver with quenelles as a plat.  All of the portions were enormous - we couldn't finish our respective plats.  Our respective desserts were chocolate mousse (YT) and the ubiquitous Lyonnaise praline tarte (GotT).  We ended up both overeating and overpaying - the total came to over 60€.  So much for the light lunch.  We skipped continuing onward to Le Garet for dinner reservations.

After we waddled out of Chez Hugon, we decided to explore the Croix Rousse, the hilly district north of Place Terreaux.  We walked up via a combination of streets and stairs.  Parts of this area were gentrified, but much of it was covered by grafitti tags.  Almost everything was closed.  It was cold and mist turned to a light rain.  By the time we had arrived at the upper reaches of this area, we had already tired of it and the weather.  We headed back down towards the Saone to check out the Fresque des Lyonnais Celebres off quai Saint-Vincent.  The Fresque des Lyonnais Celebres is an old apartment building.  The windowless side facing away from the quai is covered with fantastic trompe l'oeil murals featuring imaginary doors, windows, balconies and revolving doors populated by famous Lyonnais ancient and modern.  We loved it and took photo after photo of the clever murals.  

Then we headed back to our apartment in the cold grey misting afternoon.  It was only a little after three.  We didn't leave again for the rest of the day.  We ate a very light dinner scavenged from the fridge and read.  

Texas
Level Contributor
1,482 posts
90 reviews
Save Reply
10. Re: Loving Lyon

Keep going! So much fun. How long are you staying?

Only - lyon - Then perhaps we also have seen each other at that Saturday morning market where among other things the girls learned one Saturday that the rabbits for sale aren't for pets. They were so shocked that they wanted to go into a church near there and light candles - and we're not Catholic! That's interesting about the oyster guy. None of my family will eat them so I have never talked to him.