We're spending four days in Provence, northwest of Aix, the first week of May. We have a car, speak French, and have traveled many times in France, especially the southwest (specifically the Dordogne). This time we want to stay in one spot in Provence and just hang, with short (at the most) half-day trips. I initially thought of Uzès but it's a bit far west I think since we don't want to spend the entire time in the car. We're thinking of visiting Arles, Les Baux, Avignon - the usual suspects.
Here's the problem: Everything I've read indicates that Saint-Remy may be too touristy. We're not adverse to things-to-do. My wife especially prefers to have lots of cafés, restaurants, and shops in walking distance. But there's a limit; we don't want a tourist trap. Friends who've been there are split: some say it's quite charming and even relaxing (especially in early May), others have suggested that it's worth a day trip but it's not a place to stay for three or four nights.
But where then? Aix and Avignon are cities. Les Baux seems a bit like Disneyland.
Where would you recommend that's a good base, typically Provencal, not overwhelmed with tourists, and with enough to do if we don't want to get in the car and drive somewhere? Or is that not possible any longer in Provence?