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Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Denver
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Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Our vacation started June 3rd in Scotland and we spent the first three days in Edinburgh. We stayed a short distance from town at Ardenlee B&B http://www.ardenlee.co.uk/. It was a good place to stay although the walk to town was uphill but buses were convenient. We did the usual Edinburgh tours and took a bus tour around the city on Majestic Tours the first thing, their ticket is good for 24 hours. We walked the Royal Botanical Gardens, Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile and Palace of Holyroodhouse http://www.royal.gov.uk/output/page559.asp. For lunch we really enjoyed the Globe restaurant and it was close to our B&B. I don't think I would drive across town to go to it but the food was great. We also walked down Dundas Street to Interleith Row and took a left for a block to the Orchard restaurant and had a great first dinner in Edinburgh. There are several interesting restaurants on this block but once again I would only go if it was convenient. You can buy an all day pass for buses and that was a good thing for us to do. The number 23 and 27 bus line stopped one block from our B&B. Both bus routs went by the Edinburgh Castle so we got on the bus and it dropped us off for the tour of Edinburgh Castle tour. After that tour we got back on the bus and took it to the end on the line. Someone overheard us talking and recommended we get off and eat at the Hunter's Tryst. We enjoyed the restaurant and the food but were surprised that a sign said, no children under 14. We got back on the bus again and went to the other end of the line and could see the Firth of Fourth. We decided to walk down to the water, it was a long walk but nice. The bus trips were a very nice addition to our vacation. I would recommend the bus day pass in Edinburgh.

BTW, if you like to dance they have Tango dancing in Edingurgh on Tuesday night. It was above The Counting House on West Nicolson Street edinburghtango.org.uk/tango/tangomilongas.ph… Susie's restaurant is across the street if you like vegitarian food.

After 3 days in Edinburgh we rented a car and I drove towards Kingussie. We made a 16 mile side trip to Culross and I would recommend it to people that like small old villages. We hiked up to the Abby founded in 1217. The towns small botanical garden was open and it was lovely. We ate at a small tea room in Culross and loved the food. Maybe we were just lucky but it was a great addition to our trip.

We went on the Kingussie and stayed at Greystones. http://www.greystonesbandb.com/Book.htm It was a great place with a large shared bathroom. The largest bathroom on our holiday and we were the only ones there.

We bypassed Inverness but it looked like it would have been a nice place to stay. We wanted to get to a remote part of Scotland and found it in Cannich. A small town with no gas station but a surprising number of places to stay in the countryside around the town. touristnetuk.com/Sc/…cannich.htm

I was a little worried because I hadn't booked in advance. Many places close in were filled up but I got a recommendation and found that the country roads were filled with B&B's. Kerrow House looked good but was filled up http://www.kerrow-house.co.uk/ and they recommended Carnoch Farm http://www.carnoch.btinternet.co.uk/. We hiked Glen Strathfarrar first then we hiked around Glen Affric on a long 10 mile 4 hour hike. It was beautiful but tiring hike. For people that love to hike, this is a great place to go but I think you leave the good restaurants behind.

After 2 days in Glenn Affric we went on to Ullapool. We stayed at Riverside B&B and it was great but had little charm. I t was a little like a small hotel. Their restaurant was great for breakfast. http://www.riversideullapool.com/index.htm Ullapool is a small seaside town with lovely drives on small remote countryside roads and several great hikes. We went to Corrieshalloch Gorge http://www.ullapool.co.uk/gorge.html and it is much bigger and higher than the photo, very pretty, the Lael Forest Garden walk http://www.ullapool.co.uk/lael.html it is lovely and the trees are named. We drove down to Poolewe for a day trip to Inverewe Garden www.aboutscotland.com/land/inverewe.html , it is a large 50 acre garden and it is beautiful. They are also open late. We did a boat trip out of Ullapool and I might pass on that. We drove up to Lochinver by way of Storer and then hiked to the Bone Cave. Very nice short hike. knockan-crag.co.uk/RockRoute/BoneCaves.asp

Next we moved on to Skye and stayed at Scorrybreac http://www.scorrybreacbandb.com/. We had two rooms, which was the whole upstairs with a small kitchen and sitting room to ourselves. They had window blinds that closed off the light at night so that you couldn't see your hand. If you like a dark room at night, this is the place, of course you could open the blind a little to let in some light. We drove up to Portree to look around and have dinner. I got a recommendation from a local and got to the Arriba Cafe in Portree about 10 minutes to 6:00, second floor. travelpublishing.co.uk/CountryLivingScotland… got a window table overlooking the bay and had a wonderful meal. I had the Salmon and it is the best I have ever had. My desert was the Belgium Waffle with honey and maple syrup, wow. The next day we drove to the small port of Elgo on very narrow road and did a hike along the way from Kilmarie to Camasunary grianaig.blogspot.com/2006/08/camasunary.html beautiful strenuous 4 hour hike.

I would have liked to have more time for the islands and could see a tour that was exclusively the islands. We had to leave for Stirling and our trip home. Striling is a wonderful small town with a great castle and the Wallace monument. Too many other things to mention. Good shopping too but they seem to close most of the stores downtown at 5:30. We stayed at a good B&B in Stirling that has only been in business for two weeks. It is at 64 Causewayhead Road and the phone in 07847364828. The beds were great and the place has beed newly remodeled. It was 30 Pounds per person, which seems fairly common. It was within walking distance of the Wallace Monument.

The owners are James and Ann Kirk are they were very thoughtful. BTW, we got in some more dancing in Stirling at Alberts Hall http://www.cerocscotland.com/

Richard Parker

Stanley, Falkland...
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1. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Glad you enjoyed your trip. Thanks for the feedback.

No sign of the dreaded midge?

Denver
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2. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Oh no, the dreaded midge was present but we had the Avon product Skin Do Soft and sprayed it on whenever we attracted a cloud of Midges. It worked for us.

Scotland, United...
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3. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Thanks Richard, that was a great report with lots of useful websites. It will be a good inspiration for others!

cheers

PC

Edinburgh, United...
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4. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Great report and i am glad you had a great time.

The Hunter's Tryst no under 14 policy is because it is a public house(pub) rather than a resturant and public houses are legally obliged to have a special children's license,the Hunter's Tryst as well as many other public houses in the city choose not to apply for this license.

Btw I have eaten in the hunter's Tryst on several occasions and always found it excellent,biggest portion of fish& chips i have had anywhere.

Rio Rancho, New...
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5. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Hello Richard,

So glad I found your report and have printed it for references! Your from Denver and we're from the Albuquerque area. We are planning a Scotland/England trip for next May and so the research has begun! I am reading as many posts and taking notes as I can! My question was, who did you rent your car through and how much was the cost? We are thinking of doing the same as you on public transportation in Edinburgh and then a rental car to explore the rest of Scotland!

Thank you!

Jean

Glens Falls, New...
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6. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Great report, Richard. I was particularly interested in your Ullapool and Skye experiences as I'll be visiting there next month. Glad you had a good time!!

Denver
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7. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Photo gallery from our trip.

http://www.dancedancedance.net/page2.html

Richard Parker

Denver
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8. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

We rented from Arnold Clark. The car needs to be able to hold your luggage but I would pick it the next time based on the gas mileage. I picked for comfort. We spent $300 just for the gas on the trip.

Richard

Rio Rancho, New...
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9. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Hi Richard,

Enjoyed your pictures! Loved the waterfalls!

Will probably be in some of the same towns you were - so seeing the pictures makes it just that more exciting!

Thanks for the info on the car too!

Jean

Scotland, United...
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for South Ayrshire, Glasgow
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10. Re: Trip report for Scotland 06/18/07

Richard, those are amazing photos and an inspiration for anyone thinking about a visit!

Thanks:-)