Sunny weather today at lunch, with the gentlest of breezes, a grand day and a grand meal. The familiar team at front-of-house, but with a new chef -- the obligatory sleeve tattoo ; young, personable, solicitous of opinion, with a remarkably pedigreed resumé and, very...interestingly, experience in Mexico. No pronounced shift to maize / beans / rice in today's offerings -- no hot-pepper indulgences, no chocolate-and-avocado leanings. Yet. Will he draw on his time in Puerto Vallarta ? Has a local farmer been contracted NOT to spray a row or two of maize against smut infection so that sometime this summer huitlacoche will be on the menu ?
Well. We are intrigued, and we look forward to dropping back in, sampling what he offers, learning how he spreads his wings. Today we ate very well and almost classically (mushroom soup ; soft-poached egg, green asparagus, Hollandaise . . . no, not sauce, foam ; slow-cooked beef cheek ; Alpine trout with kohlrabi). Two lovely meals of three courses, without wine, at €40 each. Very much worth the visit.More