It is a quarter to seven in the twilight of summer in Tierra del Fuego and I am almost last in the queue for the tiny restaurant serving the best king crabs in town. Inside on a shared table for five I introduce myself to...the others and we all look at the menu and shriek four king crabs (they serve one between two) and a cheese and king crab cazuela (common name for any stew baked in a shallow bowl). Outside the Flightless Steamer Duck (Tachyeres pteneres) is a comic little bird that paddles patiently between the tourist and fishing boats along the waterfront. The beauty of the Beagle Channel is humbling this is truly travelling even to the Uttermost Part of the Earth. The day had been full of wildlife - elegant Chilean swans with black necks and white bodies near the lagoons at the end of the highway through south america called Route 3, and beaver dams visible on a trail off this route, wild horses galloping beside the puffing steam train Fin del Mundo, and an island colony of nesting magellan penguins reached in a special expedition from Estancia Haberton - where there is also a wonderful museum and research station. I visited in summer 2018 (the web site only allows me to say 2020)More