In Besiktas, skyscrapers compete with palaces for space in an upscale vista replete with hilly green parkland filling in the margins. Step into this rather wealthy neighborhood and discover a rich mix of opportunities to shop, dine, and be entertained. For folks in search of urban buzz, not to mention a constant reminder of just how important Istanbul’s waterways are to its rich history, there's the frenetic Besiktas ferry terminal or the city’s most vibrant fish market to explore. For a timeout of metropolitan proportions, head to the bucolic Yildiz Park or the chic Bosphorus-side fishing village of Ortakoy. Attractions such as the grandiose Dolmabahce Palace and a bevy of other stately residences await admiration. To be sure, this large and not overly touristy swath of Istanbul yields plenty of pleasure for all.