Vienna is a city that sings, and dances, in earnest. Once the heart of the Habsburg Empire, it’s been home to some of the world’s most famous composers. You know the names: Mozart, Beethoven, Bach. But the composer most-associated with Vienna is Johan Strauss II, the King of Waltz.

I’ll be honest—I don’t like snow or the cold, and as a rule, I usually go out of my way to avoid a chilly trip during the darkest months of the year. But I just got back from a frost-tinged visit to Vienna, and I’m here to say that the land of hearty food, sparkling crystal, elegant waltzes, and buttery pastries is worth bundling up for.