Ocean House is a luxurious floating resort tucked away at Stads K’uns Gawga (the Haida name for Peel Inlet), on the rugged western side of Moresby Island in Haida Gwaii. The lodge is anchored in a protected, picturesque cove right at the base of Mount Moresby, the tallest peak in this fabled archipelago. Spectacular views during the helicopter transfers to and from the lodge are a bonus.
As a married couple, we were assigned one of the two deluxe suites. Our spacious room featured a balcony, a queen-sized bed with an additional single bed in an adjoining alcove, and carpeting in the sleeping areas. A thick duvet and pillowy mattress-cover kept us warm and cozy each night, without the need to turn on the auxiliary electric baseboard heating. Each suite has its own three-piece ensuite with stone-tiled floors. Housekeeping services kept our room spotlessly clean and neatly made up.
We were able to experience a wide variety of fully guided activities that showcased many aspects of Haida culture. We learned a great deal about their history, music, and art. Most of the staff at Ocean House are Haida and, in addition to their duties at the lodge, they double as cultural guides. They take pride in sharing their extensive knowledge, even unabashedly breaking into Haida songs at any time. It was magical to hear ancient songs as we walked the mossy forests, or beachcombed along the tideline.
The resort transports guests on many tours using a custom-designed landing craft. It features a drop-down ramp that allows fairly easy access to most beach sites. This boat has a roomy, fully enclosed cabin that will seat nine. There is additional seating and standing room outside, and even an enclosed head. To stay dry, the lodge provides each guest with full rain gear and rubber rain boots. Safety was always the number one priority; we and all staff were required to don inflatable PFDs – properly done up – during any activity that required water transport.
Most tours were planned, but weather- and sea-condition dependent. On planned tours to ancient village sites, Captain Gold, a Haida cultural historian, accompanied us. We were able to depend upon his years of experience and intimate knowledge of the region to answer any questions that we had. Several staff members usually joined our group to show us edible and medicinal plants, or items of interest like recently occupied bear dens and culturally modified trees. We were very impressed that everyone took the lead of our guides to clean every site of as much sea-borne plastic debris that we could find.
Foraging was a major activity on any tour. It was a tasty way to learn about traditional food sources and lore. Other activities included kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Dock staff helped my wife and I carefully clamber into a two-person kayak, and gave us waterproof walkie-talkie radios to call for assistance if needed; we took a lovely kayak tour of a small portion of pretty Peel Inlet. We watched a few people using the paddleboards, but didn’t feel like risking a swim!
Wildlife abounds in this remote location. We saw a number of black bears, bald eagles, deer (including does with fawns), sea lions, seals, and even raccoons – who were boldly digging in the clam beds next to the lodge.
After a busy day of activities, we could go up to the bar lounge to have a drink and appetizer before supper. The space is decorated with Haida sculptures, paintings, and historic photos of ancient Haida villages. Bartender Rodney Brown kept us well-entertained with his many stories and good humour.
While we were there, one of the artists-in-residence, Derek Edenshaw, was doing several paintings. It was fascinating to learn how he creates a mirror-image design, and transfers it to a canvas for painting.
Dining at Ocean House is amazing. All four chefs work together well to make each meal an experience. Pastry chef Nicole Lee puts out at least a dozen sinful pastries, bars, and cookies for all-day snacking; loaves of sourdough bread for toasts, sandwiches, and bread at supper; and the sensational, after-supper dessert cake to annihilate any diet – every day! John Lowe, as breakfast chef, prepares delicious and imaginative breakkie items like razor clam pancakes, or toast topped with smoked sablefish with wild mushroom, or crab and avocado. The lunch and supper chefs, Brodie Swanson and Joseph Kennard, will blow you away with amazing seafood creations like pan-seared ling cod, salmon ceviche, or poached sablefish, all accompanied by taste-enhanced fermented root vegetables, freshly made pastas, and sauces made with stinging nettles or wild mushrooms. The “potlatch” final night feast was one of the most memorable meals we have ever eaten!
Ocean House has it all: setting, scenery, and activities. Whether you want to learn, explore, or just chill, the attentive, inside and outside operations managers, Shireen Gopaul and Sascha Jones, along with their friendly staff, will cater to as much or as little as you want to do.