ALILA MANGGIS From the sublime to the ridiculous. This is what it felt like after leaving Maya Sanur to go to Alila Manggis, or Candi Dasa. You could consciously feel a relax coming on the further east we drove. Candi Dasa is about a two hour drive east from the airport and all things crazy about Denpasar. It is everything that Denpasar / Kuta / Seminyak isn’t, it is quiet, relaxed and peaceful. It is more local, like Bali used to be some years ago. We have stayed at Candi Dasa a number of times. It is a seafront location with a number of small shops, bars, resorts and restaurants. Most notably among the restaurants is Vincents, the main reason we came back this time. Lush surroundings, great food and live jazz, what more could you want? And they provide a free shuttle to your hotel, as do most of the restaurants. A point to note - there are no taxis in Candi Dasa. It is just like the old days when every time you stop in the street there will be someone offering “you want transport?” Negotiate the price first! This time we stayed at Alila Manggis, Manggis being a “suburb” of Candi Dasa approx. a 10 minute drive away. You could easily miss the driveway off the main road , winding down into the grounds set amongst a coconut plantation. An imposing traditional Balinese meeting hall finds reception and a view straight onto the sea. On the left is the restaurant, Sea Salt, open to the sea and the ever present sea breezes. To the right are the two storey accommodation buildings. There are four of them, all thatched and very traditional. As with most of Bali there are beautiful water features everywhere. The buildings open out on to a large lawned area interspersed with coconut palms and trees, in the middle of this is a large square swimming pool with, surprisingly, enough umbrellas and lounges for everyone. Again, it is immaculately clean and the staff walk around with infused cold water for you and the spa staff come around offering mini- massages. There is full food and drink service at the pool and a complimentary afternoon tea served every day at the sea front. There is a spa, as with most hotels in Bali. They have three bales as treatment rooms with drop down blinds all round. The spa is situated right on the sea wall with the waves lapping, or crashing, to provide even more atmosphere. It was difficult to stay awake during a soothing Balinese massage. Initial impressions of the room are that it is small (after Maya Sanur this is not surprising). It consists of a bedroom with lounge along one wall, mini bar, and a free-standing TV. The front of the room is glass double doors opening out onto a covered verandah with lounge and table looking onto the pool and the sea. You never get tired of the sound of the waves crashing onto the shore lulling you into sleep. Inside the entrance door is a mirror fronted wardrobe opposite a basin and vanity unit. To the rear is a toilet and shower. When you look at it, and the complex, you feel it is dated, and not surprisingly it is, next year is its 30th birthday. Don’t let that detract you from staying here. It is immaculately clean and is maintained twice a day by the ever present smiling staff. Some things that do date it are the solid blocks of concrete that serve as bedside tables and the outdated basin in the bathroom. Everything in the unit’s furniture is solid timber; from the doors, cupboards and, unusually, solid wooden sliding shutters that slide across the glass outside doors for night time. The whole place takes on a different atmosphere at night with subtle uplights in the trees and downlights onto the base of the coconut palms. It really does have atmosphere. Sea Salt restaurant is located overlooking the sea, all open sided under a huge thatched roof. There is also a bar right on the edge of the sea wall. Breakfast is provided and has a different menu for each day of the week. Complimentary juice, fruit and bread basket along with tea and coffee before you have even looked at the menu. All the food is fresh and hot and served by the smiling staff. Nothing is too much trouble. Evening meal is quite comprehensive and there is also a large wine list to complement the meal. This resort may not to be to everyone’s taste but for us it is perfect. I have never seen more than 20 people at one time. The grounds and pool are beautiful but most importantly it is totally relaxed and quiet. A far cry from what we have experienced at other bigger resorts in the city. To each his own. …