No Berlin neighborhood has undergone a greater change than Prenzlauer Berg. The artists and non-conformists that defined the district’s intriguing subculture in the 1980s and 90s have been replaced by a young, hip crowd that frequents the many cafes. Where there were once run-down houses in the shadow of the Berlin Wall, there are now designer shops. Beautiful old homes have been modernized and renovated, and on Sundays, thousands turn the park next to remnants of the wall into a playground for street artists, musicians, and flea market shoppers. This attracts young urban families who enjoy the balance of big city life and small-town comfort. Meanwhile, trendy, young, upper-class visitors from all over the world are attracted to the local high-end shops, cafés, and sophisticated bars and restaurants. The merits of this transformation are a favorite topic of debate around the city, but it makes for some of the best people-watching Berlin has to offer.