Not very succesful in finding a hotel for the night, eventually I meet a group of local motorcyclists at a petrol station. They advise to head for the village Plan. It's close, just 10 km, over a narrow mountainous road with pitch-black tunnels. Plan does not disappoint. There are multiple hotels and Casa Rafeleta has room available. A lucky choice!
The hotel is exactly what you hope to find when you walk into an unknown hotel. An old - but well renovated - building, straightforward rooms but done with taste and proper materials; and above all clean.
The hotel hasn't got its own restaurant, so in that sense it's more like a bed and breakfast. But the guesthouse opposite has a bar and just downhill there are restaurants.
Oooh... Plan is a charming village with great views and plenty of hiking opportunities. More