En route to the castle we saw a sign for an “underground city.” Naturally we had to detour. It was actually an exhibit for a single, very angsty artist, Miroslav Pirál, who specialized in bronze sculptures. The creepy setting was perfect for his morbid art. But the descriptions, thankfully available in English, were very clear and meaningful. He spoke of learning about “empty suitcases” left behind from murdered Jews, of how Czech people turned inward to their TV’s, alcohol, and cabins in the woods to deny to themselves the oppression of Soviet rule. And he shared about the horrors of free reign, post-Communism including the advancement of the sex industry and loss of job security – among other things – when the Soviets left. It was truly moving.