We loved this amazingly huge cemetery so much that we visited twice on our vacation. Even then, we could not cover more than about 1/3 of the giant, beautiful place. Meticulously kept, the grounds are a joy to walk (or bike or run, as locals were doing), and the stones range from simple to classy to ghastly to hilarious. For anyone taking joy from typefaces or statuary, this is paradise. Of course, the luminaries are wonderful, but get the Graves of Honor book at the shop at the gate if you want stories of others you may not know. If you are fortunate enough to visit near sunset, you will be treated to miles of candles on graves, which is serene beyond description. Must go back!!