Hard to reach on foot, but worth every ankle-twisting step. The crystal water of the bay is magical, and the now-desolate site of the little city-state, overlooked by the necropolis, is evocative despite most of it being still unexcavated. Last time we walked from Sougia and back, and found it strenuous, but perfectly doable for two fit people aged either side of 70. If you have a car, you can park at Prodromi and go much of the way on gravelly tracks. Or you can take the boat, of course.