This has to be one of the most underrated museum visits in Europe. A major collection of medieval sculpture, polychrome wood, alabaster, stone; obsessive maybe, but you will meet work the likes of which you might never have seen before or will ever encounter again. If that's not for you, the collector's cabinet on the upper floors is a place like no other I've ever seen, where you can wander between cases of hand fans, bibles, pipes, Tarot cards, tobacco pipes, clocks, toy theatres, keys(!) weapons, armour; it seems to never end. There's always another room.
You could spend several hours in here, and they would not be wasted. you think you'll be encountering something, it'll be something else. You walk out with a deeper understanding of the substance of Hispanic culture, and plenty to talk about.
Friendly staff, very helpful. Extremely affordable. Not crowded; I was the only one in there for most of my visit. Smack bang by the gothic Cathedral, so only ten minutes from a lot of the hotels, and with a very pleasant courtyard to hang about and talk in under the lemon trees, even when the city has turned the fountains off in October. More of us should visit this place when we go to see this city.