Ok folks, let me tell you a little story about why Phil & Zen from the Piha Surf School are absolute bloody legends:
It was a solid Monday of pumping surf at Piha, breaking mid tide out at camel - draining! I was super excited and took the first wave that came my way -- too deep and behind the section, I straightened out onto the flats and looked back at a super powerful double overhead beast throwing out, and reeling off down the line. Piha is so exhilarating when its breaking like that! I thought I was about to enjoy an all-time session with only a few guys out, and the formality of just wearing one on the head...
I did a standard feet first pin drop and then underwater I was shocked by the power of the explosion, I got super violently beaten. I didnt hit the bottom, but the the wave ragdolled me and nek minut, my shoulder is out of the socket!
I've been surfing almost 30 years and in some heavy spots around the world. I cant remember the last time I got a drubbing like that!
I surfaced in excruciating pain with a dead arm, a hideous double shoulder, and began the one armed paddle to the beach. Every wave that came through I had to slide off my board and go under, holding my dead arm down against my side, but I couldn't always manage it, so the shoulder got agonisingly thrashed a few extra times for good measure.
I lurched up the beach to an empty south carpark, but for my old mate Phil who just happened to have some top shelf painkiller in his car. Phil totally sorted me out, called up the ambulance, sat with me until it arrived, and while the medic direct lined
some more happy vibes, Phil called up Zen who volunteered to drive my car back to the shore!
Zen & Phil, a big thanks and stoked shaka! You guys transformed a stressful situation into a really good vibe day!
I was wisked off to waitakere hospital and two docters popped the arm back into place. See you back out there soon buddies!
Nick