Malo Grablje
Malo Grablje
4.5
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Duration: 1-2 hours
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4.5
4.5 of 5 bubbles22 reviews
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DutchWalker
Nijmegen, The Netherlands68 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2020 • Couples
We visited this place for its restaurant, which is excellent but that’s for another review.

De city of Malo Grablje is completely abandoned around 1960, apparently due to a disease that destroyed the olives / wine yards.

The city is left as is and is slowly being taken apart my nature, so be careful if you decide to enter one of the houses.

It’s a really beautiful place to walk around. We might go back for some of the hiking trails that start there.

There is an hotel/apartment place build at the edge of the village, so for how long this place stays abandoned is the question.
Written August 31, 2020
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

robert
Gdynia, Poland740 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Sep 2013 • Couples
Not far to Hvar town and close to Milna there is a beautiful abandoned ghost-like village called Malo Grablje. This stone village was originally seat of local clan of Tudors. Some stone houses are over several centuries old and however place is uninhabited an excursion there will be very illuminating
and important.
Village was abandoned in early 60-s of XX century because of economical reasons – inhabitants (Tudors in large number) moved to nearby Milna deserting their lovely (and healthy) stone homes.
Passing time destroys the village but God thanks it's not so easy with solid stone buildings so there is still enough left to make an expedition there fruitful. The more that during season Stori Komin (called also Stori Mlin – which means Old Chimney or Old Mill), an originally kept konoba (over 200 years old inn) is opened until midnight and serves Dalmatian kitchen's specialties with tasty grilled lamb especially
Written November 6, 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

salman b
5 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2018 • Couples
This site is a must see for those who really want to experience what local life in Hvar was truly like. You will see a side of the island and culture that is drastically different from what you experience in the Town Hvar (albeit just as beautiful.) Along the way you can stop for beathtaking views on the hill tops nearby and within the abandoned town itself you can eat traditional Hvar cuisine at the only operational building there. You can even do a wine tasting. The entire experience is a must for travelers who really want to feel what local life on Hvar island is!
Written May 14, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

SwissPinkPanther
New York City, NY117 contributions
2.0 of 5 bubbles
Jun 2016 • Solo
Where oh where has the lavendar gone ?

One of the reasons for my visit to the island of Hvar .....aside from unwinding in one of the most charming of Adriatic towns .... think of a small slice of Venice combined with a Greek Island shore line......was to photograph fields of lavender.

Who knew that the island of Hvar was the source of 10 % of the lavender back in the 1970s and 80's. Given that I was visiting at the peak of the lavender blooming season....which runs from mid June to early July ... I decided to spend a day out in the field photographing what I thought would be vast fields of lavender...what a disappointment.

Enjoying photography as I do....I usually do not enjoy joining tours where I am on a fixed schedule and cannot take my time and wander , looking for that next great photo op. That was the case on Hvar. Yes...there are supposed tours of the lavender fields of Hvar that last from 2-3 hrs and range in price from $50 - 80 .... But viewing fields of lavender were only a part of most of these tours and usually they included other sites on the island which were of little interest to me.

I then set out to do on line research of where on the island to best view the lavender and came across the semi-deserted village of Velo Grablje. Velo Grablje hosts the islands annual lavender festival which takes place in late June....so you would think this would be a great place to view lavender... Think again.

When I arrived in a Hvar I chatted with a few people asking where on the island I should go to view the lavender. One very helpful gentleman who owns an organic store called Green House, just one small "street" up from the harbor suggested the town of Brusje which lies on the old road half way between Hvar and Velo Grablje. His store by the way has an excellent selection of lavender based and organic products.

Then there was an elderly gentleman who I met who just happened to be from Brusje and he said the same thing......Brusje is where you go to see lavender.

Please note...if you are planning to go up to either Brusje or Velo Grabjle on your own....there is only one bus a day that leaves The Hvar bus station at 12:10 PM sharp and travels the so called "old road" off of which these villages are located. The bus fare is only $3-4 US..... A big savings vs paying $50+ for a so called lavender tour.

After chatting with these two gentleman I made the mistake of going into the Hvar tourist office nearest the bus station...and there the gentleman insisted that the best place to view lavender was at Velo Grablje.... I thought, gee....you would think the tourist bureau would know best.....wrong again.

So I boarded the bus and we drove up the mountain to Brusje and saw a small amount of lavender on the drive up which is about 2.5 - 3.0 miles from Hvar. It was just outside of Brusje that I got to see lavender in substantial amounts that would have made for some nice photos. It wasn't acres and acres of lavender but patches of lavender mixed in between stone walls. Again it was a bit underwhelming but many times more then I would see on the drive to Velo Grabje. Again, if you get off in Brusje you would walk for about 15-20 mins toward Velo Grabje to see this particular area of lavender. Clearly...another option is to rent a car or motorbike but if you take the bus, keep in mind that the walk back to Hvar is about an hour from Brusje and all down hill on a road that is not at all busy....at least when I was there in mid June.

But instead of getting off in a Brusje I followed the advice of the tourist office and went in to Velo Grabje. The only significant lavender I found in the vicinity of Velo Grabje was off to the right hand side of the road about a 10-15 min walk from where the bus drops you off back in the direction of Brusje. The photos were OK....nothing spectacular.

I knew at this point that I would now be hiking down from the old road to the village of Velo Grabjle and on to Malo Grabjle and to the beach at Milna. Again fortunately this hike is all down hill and takes about 60-90 mins to cover the 2-3 miles.

I am totally amazed that Velo Grablje would be selected to host a lavender festival when there were no thriving lavender fields to be seen. Yes on the hillside there were plots of land marked off with low stone walls where I assume lavender once grew....I'm also aware that over the years there have been a few major fires that wiped out a number of the lavender growing areas. Because Hvar shifted toward a tourist based economy the lavender was never replanted.... A real shame.

After doing a quick walk through of Velo Grablje.....I saw only one letter size flier in the entire village promoting the lavender festival.....I continued on to Malo Grabjle...a World Heritage site which I thought would be rather interesting.....NOT. Unfortunately, I would not make Malo Grablje a destination stop.....On the positive side, the dirt road that you needed to hike down was easy to walk on without fear of getting lost....and the road was lined with beautiful wild flowers.....but no lavender. Again , I can only vouch for doing this hike in the Spring, I can't imagine enjoying this in the heat of the summer.

From Melo Grabjle I continued to Milna Beach which was another 1-2 miles down hill. There is a split in the road as you reach the highway...keep to the left ......you need to go through the pedestrian tunnel under the highway to get to Milna.

As a beach destination , Milna was also disappointing.....I would not make a special effort to go there. The beach is small, crowded and the town is just one long row of 2-3 Star lodgings.

Since I did not want to wait 2 hrs for the bus back to Hvar I decided to hike back.....the sign I saw at the Milna beach stated that it would take about an hour.....it was more like 1 1/2 hours inland over some rough terrain that is NOT well marked. I would not recommend doing it especially if you've already hiked down from Velo Grabje....better to have lunch in a Milna and take the bus back to Hvar.

There is one nice reward if you do make the hike.....there is an absolutely stunning bay between Milna and Hvar.....there were a few yachts anchored there but I was unable to see if it had a beach that was accessible from the trail I was on. I assume not, and that's what made it all the more stunning.

My last suggestion has to do with the "stony" beaches of Hvar.... As beautiful a coastline that Hvar has....with truly crystal clear water.....trying to get comfortable lying on small stones or large boulders for that matter is not what I call relaxing.... and even the beaches that have sun chairs to rent the vast majority don't come with cushions.... Make sure you bring some form of soft , cushiony mat to lie on ... And then soak in the beauty that is Hvar.
Written June 18, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Christopher G
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada49 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Sep 2016 • Solo
and any commercial activity. Berthi runs a restaurant there if you can find him. Tranquility and history is all there is.
Written October 2, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Nicky C
Sandton, South Africa5 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Sep 2014 • Friends
I visited Malo Grablje with my Mom recently and was completely charmed by the village. We had visited Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa in the afternoon and arrived at the abandoned village at dusk. Fortunately we had secured the services of a tour guide, which proved essential as the village is very well hidden from the road, and not easy to access unless you have an SUV or a 4x4. The village itself is delightful - limestone buildings and typical Croatian architecture - but the only part of it that still functions is the restaurant (konoba) called Stori Komin. The konoba is run by a member of the Tudor family that built the original village and all meals are prepared from fresh produce grown by host, Berti. We enjoyed our first traditional Croatian meal of braised beef cooked in red wine (pasticada, pronounced "pashtitzada"), followed by sugared almonds for desert. Berti had made almost everything himself, right down to the red wine that went into the pasticada and the olives he served with the starter. A thoroughly enjoyable excursion - one of the highlights of our trip!
Written October 28, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Cecilie
Copenhagen, Denmark76 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2019 • Couples
Malo Grablje is an amazing historical city to visit, if you are on Hvar Island. Great experience and very interesting. It is a long drive, if you are in the Jelsa/Vrboska area, but it is definetly worth the drive.
Written August 17, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Lucy A
Llandrindod Wells, UK9 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Jul 2017
Although its abandoned it has a tranquil air. The valley it is nestled into is very pretty and in a way remnds me of landscape home in Wales. We did yoga in a flat area and the environment felt just right.
Written August 6, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Dave C
Alexandria, VA1,588 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Apr 2017 • Friends
This was part of our tour, and we had the place to ourselves. Quiet, peaceful, very interesting. Much of the towns was in ruins except for the church and two houses that are being reoccupied. Very picturesque, a photographer's delight.
Written April 15, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Ed C
Arlington, VA802 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Jul 2016 • Solo
Malo Grablje was one of the stops on a 4x4 Jeep Safari tour that I was on. Our tour guide made the village come alive. He told us about the rain water collection system, the old olive press, Most interesting was his description of how caper plants were grown - take a seed, stick it inside a fig and push the combination into a chink in a stone wall. He showed us several plants growing out of walls in the village. It was a very interesting stop
Written August 27, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

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