I live in SF and recently had my eyes opened by a walking tour of Japantown. We met at Peace Plaza, where our guide gave us a short history of the area, which used to be nearly 40 blocks, and is now 4. She warned us that we were going to walk around for two hours sampling the best of the neighborhood, and then sit down to lunch!
Our first stop was at YakiniQ Cafe (pronounced Yak-kin-ee-que), a cute little cafe on Post Street that served us a unique hot beverage -- a sweet potato latte (sweet potato puree, milk, and simple syrup, frothed into a foam), which turns out to be a traditional Korean drink. Very warming on this day that was threatening rain.
From there, we walked up Buchanan Mall to Benkyodo, a confectionary and coffee shop run by the same family that originally started the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. Our taste there was a choice of either mochi or manju, different types of sweets made with rice pounded into a wrapper, with a filling of various sweet pastes, from Japanese tastes like red bean, or more Westernized flavors like strawberry and grape.
We then walked around the corner to Sutter Street, where we entered the Super Mira Market, one of the last 2 remaining Japanese markets in the area. In addition to a selection of Japanese foods, drinks, fresh fish and more, they have a small bakery counter, where we discovered their coffee crunch cakes are made with the same recipe from the classic sweet shop, Blum's. They also have a small area selling hot foods, and they gave us a sample. We had a tofu cube (maybe fried?) with sauce, a panko-coated, deep-fried (something) cake and some braised greens.
It started raining lightly as we walked over to Post Street to Onigilly, a small coffee shop in the New People building where our treat was an onigiri, a formed triangle of rice stuffed with eggplant or spiced shrimp and wrapped in dried seaweed. Several folks darted upstairs to New People, to check out the trendy Japanese fashions.
The tour moved into the covered portions of the Japan Center just in time to miss the heavier rain. Inside, our first stop was at Cafe Hana, where we enjoyed a "geisha float"... a cup with matcha (green tea) ice cream, matcha slush, red beans and mochi cubes.
From there, we stopped at May's Coffee Shop, a local hangout serving Japanese, Hawaiian and American comfort food. We sampled taitaki, which are fish-shaped waffles, stuffed with fillings of chocolate and banana, or taro. Some of the few Japanese who returned to the area after being forced into internment camps during World War II were nearby, celebrating a 93rd birthday.
Next we went on to Nippon-Ya (literally, "Japanese store"), which sells the type of hostess gifts commonly found in Japan... including their own brand of mochi (chocolate strawberry, in this case).
We made an unscheduled stop to enjoy okonomiyaki, which I found similar to an egg foo yung... a savory "pancake" of egg, flour, grated yam, shredded cabbage and other veggies, flavored with a worcestershire-like sauce and a mayonnaise-like sauce and topped with bonito flakes.
Our last stop was for lunch at Mifune Bistro (in the same location as the recently-closed Bushi-Tei Bistro). We enjoyed some udon soup, as well as gyoza.
In addition to the history and the stops, our guide gave us lots of information about her favorites in Japantown, including Kappa (the "French Laundry" of Japanese restaurants, featuring hot foods and some sushi), Kiss Seafood (sushi), Sushi Aka Tombo (very fresh fish), Fuji Shiatsu massage and Ino Sushi (dinner only, sushi only).