Arrived in Ketchikan on a cruise ship and took Island Wings’ four-hour “Traitors Cove Tour.” This tour is not cheap -- $365.00 per person. The information on Island Wings’ website accurately describes the tour. Bottled water is provided and guests are told not to bring any food in their backpacks (don’t want to attract the bears), but we did notice that several of the guests on the tour did bring food with them. The land portion of our tour was great; the air portion, not so much. I’ll describe the good portion first so that you can stop reading if you don’t want to hear about the air portion.
Although not booked through our cruise line, Island Wings guaranties to have you back in time for you make your ship’s scheduled departure. We were given directions to where to meet Island Wings’ van for transport to the floatplane dock. The walk to the van pickup spot turned out to be twice as far from our cruise ship as it would have been to walk from the cruise ship to the floatplane dock so you may want to consider asking for a map to the floatplane dock and walking from your ship’s berth. Upon arrival at the dock, we were offered use of the restrooms in a restaurant above the dock and also told that there was a restroom at Traitors Cove, but that the restroom was rather rank. There were ten people on this tour; four flew on the plane piloted by the owner of Island Wings, Michelle Masden, and the other six flew on a different plane. Our nature guide also was on Michelle’s plane. (Neither my wife nor I recall our guide being introduced, but later on, one of our fellow passengers told us that his name was “Tim.”) Our backpacks were stored in the locker space of one of the plane’s floats. Both planes were de Havilland Beavers. To enter the plane, you must be agile enough to climb up four or five narrow slat (not very wide) steps and duck into the cabin.
The plane ride to the dock at Traitors Cove took about twenty minutes. On the way, Michelle pointed out some of the landmarks. (Each passenger wears a headset with a volume adjustment knob on the right earphone.) We got off the plane, collected our backpacks and walked up the bridge from the dock to where Island Wings’ ten-passenger van was parked. Tim drove us to a bridge overlooking Margarete Lake because he believed that we were more likely to see bears from that vantage point. He advised us to not make too much noise so as not to scare off any bears in the area. Five or six people from another tour group were already there. As we waited to see a bear, we saw many salmon in the river running under the bridge into the lake. Many of the salmon were still alive, many were nearly dead and many were already dead so there was quite a fish smell down by the river and lake. We saw a couple of bald eagles and other large birds. After a half-hour or so, a small black bear came down to the lake’s edge, grabbed a huge salmon and then went back into the brush. Up river, we saw another black bear come down to the river, walk along a fallen tree, grab a salmon and then return to the cover of the brush. After no more bear sightings from the bridge after thirty or forty minutes, Tim drove us up to the trailhead leading to an observation platform overlooking the river. The quarter-mile trail (one-half mile round trip) was slightly downhill to the observation deck and well maintained making it an easy walk. As we walked the trail both to and from the trailhead, Tim shared his knowledge of the plants and trees along the trail as well as some of the habits of the black bears living in the area. Within minutes of reaching the observation deck overlooking a small waterfall on the river, a large black bear that Tim calls “Bruce” made his appearance. We were able to get some amazing pictures of Bruce while he fished in the river, caught a salmon and then retreated along a fallen tree up the slope and into the thick forest. Tim took a great picture of my wife and I with Bruce in the background. During the hour or so we were on the observation deck, Tim shared stories of growing up and living in Ketchikan, and his encounters with bears and other wildlife in the area. Tim told us that he has a “master wilderness guide license” and he seemed quite knowledgeable as well as excited about sharing his knowledge with all in his charge. Tim was quite customer friendly and interested in assuring that we all had a good experience. We give Tim “five stars” for the guided tour of Traitors Cove. It appeared that most, if not all the tour participants gave Tim a cash thank-you gratuity.
We left Traitors Cove’s dock around 2:30 p.m. and were back on board our ship well before its 3:30 p.m. return deadline. I used a telephoto lens (150mm to 600mm zoom) and tripod on the bridge overlooking Margaret Lake to photograph the two bears we saw there, but I did not use the tripod at the observation deck because of the more confined space on the deck. If you want good photos of the bears from the sites available on this tour, bring the longest lens you have. There were bugs at the lake viewing site, so you may want to consider putting insect repellant on any exposed skin and wear sunscreen because you will be out in the sun at times (assuming you get lucky and have a sunny day in Ketchikan). Just in case, bring a rain jacket too.
Now for the unfortunate part of the trip. Before boarding for departure, Michelle asked who wanted to sit in the co-pilot’s seat and I raised my hand along with another passenger, Tracie. Tracie and I agreed I’d ride in the co-pilot’s seat on the outbound flight and Tracie on the inbound flight. Having a private pilot’s license with 500+ hours flying small planes, I thought it would be fun to sit up front. Oh, how wrong I was! When Michelle started her takeoff run, I turned on my video camera to capture the takeoff and some of the scenery of Ketchikan on the way to Traitors Cove. A couple of minutes after we became airborne, I turned the camera to my left to catch the scenery on the other side of the plane. Unlike other pilots I’ve flown with who didn’t even seem to notice a camera, Michelle went ballistic! Even though the camera was in my right hand near the door, she leaned over, reached across me and batted the camera away and launched into a tirade about filming her while still in the air-traffic control area. Her rant was endless and seemed to distract her more than any camera should. I’ve piloted planes out of high airplane traffic areas (sorry Michelle, the air traffic out of Ketchikan is not as heavy as out of Phoenix Skyharbor and Tucson International or some of the airports in southern California where I’ve flown) and, in my opinion, having a video camera pointed in my direction from the other side of the plane certainly would not present any safety hazard or prevent me from seeing other air traffic or listening to air traffic control. If I felt that it did, I certainly wouldn’t bat at the camera and berate my guest. I felt Michelle’s conduct was rude, unprofessional and a total over-reaction particularly since there was neither objection to filming the takeoff nor any mention of any restrictions prior to her harangue. I didn’t film the landing for fear of again incurring Michelle’s wrath. So, if you have any thought of using a camera in the plane’s cabin, I’d ask if there are any restrictions on its use before the reprimand begins.
Five stars to Tim, one star to Michelle for her poor customer interaction.