Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People
4.5
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This famous church dominates Pelourinho Square with its unmistakable blue façade.
Duration: < 1 hour
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Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.
Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as wait time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.
4.5
1,226 reviews
Excellent
723
Very good
412
Average
79
Poor
10
Terrible
2
2BISCUITS
Sydney, Australia390 contributions
Apr 2013 • Couples
Wandering around Pelpourinho we came across this church which began its construction in the 18th century and took 100 years to finish. Salvador was the first slave port of Brazil and in the square outside the slaves were auctioned or punished. They were not allowed into other churches and so built this one so that they had somewhere to worship. It had a lovely painted wooden ceiling but it was rather hard to see it too well as the church itself is quite dark. There are boards outside in Spanish and English explaining some of the history. It is by no means a fancy ornate church but we were very interested in its history and of the men who built it. It is worth a visit.
Written June 28, 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Vincent M
New Orleans, LA2,246 contributions
Jun 2015 • Solo
I want to focus on one aspect of Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos: its music. Anytime and anywhere music comes up in Brazil, it’s generally worth listening to, and the music here is particularly worth going out of your way to hear.
The Brotherhood of Our Lady of the Rosary was a lay benevolent association of blacks dating back to 1685 in Salvador. In 1705, the Jesuit Primate of Brazil authorized the brotherhood to build a church near the Carmo Gate of the city wall. Civil authorities were unhappy about this, and a pragmatic compromise was reached: the blacks could work on the church, but only after their slave labor was through for the day. That restriction, and the poverty of most of the brotherhood’s members, ensured that it would be decades before the church was completed, The main body of the church was built by 1740; the sky-blue Baroque façade and towers were constructed only at the end of the 18th century; and the interior was redone, in Neoclassical style, in the 1870s. The architecture’s worth a look-see, and visitors to the old high city are almost certain to pass right by the church, since it dominates Largo do Pelourinho (see photos).
But for a real treat, if you’re in Salvador on a Sunday morning, make a point of going to Rosario for their mass services, whether you’re Catholic or not. It’s packed, but the singing and drumming spills out of the church and can be enjoyed across the largo. You’ll hear some of the most remarkable ecclesiastical music you’ve ever encountered. The music might be termed counter-syncretic, in the sense of countering the integration of Christian iconography into African animist religions in Bahia, by integrating the music of Bahian Candomblé rituals into orthodox Catholic liturgy.
The primary goal of Portuguese maritime expansion ever since the days of Henry the Navigator was propagation of the Faith; if they became fabulously rich in the process, that was useful, but ancillary. Naturally, the Faith they intended to propagate was Roman Catholicism, not African animism. But alas for Henry, the Law of Unintended Consequences still held, and an unanticipated result of Portugal’s conquest of Brazil and importation of African slaves was to transplant the Africans’ religious beliefs along with their labor. (The same thing happened in Louisiana, which is why Marie Leveau wound up a voodoo queen rather than an Ursuline abbess.) Candomble is a Brazilian religion which blended Catholic elements with African beliefs and rites, especially those from Dahomey and SW Nigeria. To a certain extent Catholic missionaries tried to convert Africans by presenting Christian theology and saints as corollaries to pre-existing local beliefs. To a certain extent, since pagan rites were frowned upon by Brazilian civil and church authorities, Candomble congregations adopted a front of Catholicism, focusing on certain saints and symbols—the rosary among them—to deflect persecution. However it came about, Candomble is widespread in Bahia, with well over 2,000 congregations in Salvador alone. And many practicing Catholics have a healthy respect for Candomble, and are not above occasionally attending a ceremony at a terreiro or consulting a mae de santo (as is also true of voodoo in New Orleans).
Music—particularly percussion—has always been an important part of Candomble rites—the word itself means “dance house with drums.” Various sized drums are used: the largest, the rum, leads smaller conga-like le and rumpi. Agogô bells and gourds covered with strung beads (xequeres), add to the musical rhythm. In Candomble ceremonies, the purpose of all this percussion is to assist initiates in going into trances. However, Candomble has influenced Brazilian musical genres such as samba where initiates are more likely to go into dances. Turnabout is fair play, and music is universal. So, since Candomble borrowed from Catholicism, it seems only fair that the preeminent black Catholic church in Bahia should incorporate musical elements of Candomble into their own service. The percussion at N. Senhora do Rosario backs up singing by the congregation. The church’s music is joyful, beautiful, remarkable, and quintessentially Brazilian. It’s like nothing else I’ve ever heard on earth, and trust me, it really works well. Some places are worth traveling to just for their music. New Orleans is one; Vienna is another, but Brazil tops the list for musical destinations. If one of the reasons you’re visiting Brazil is to hear great music, and you’re in Salvador on a Sunday morning, don’t miss this!
The Brotherhood of Our Lady of the Rosary was a lay benevolent association of blacks dating back to 1685 in Salvador. In 1705, the Jesuit Primate of Brazil authorized the brotherhood to build a church near the Carmo Gate of the city wall. Civil authorities were unhappy about this, and a pragmatic compromise was reached: the blacks could work on the church, but only after their slave labor was through for the day. That restriction, and the poverty of most of the brotherhood’s members, ensured that it would be decades before the church was completed, The main body of the church was built by 1740; the sky-blue Baroque façade and towers were constructed only at the end of the 18th century; and the interior was redone, in Neoclassical style, in the 1870s. The architecture’s worth a look-see, and visitors to the old high city are almost certain to pass right by the church, since it dominates Largo do Pelourinho (see photos).
But for a real treat, if you’re in Salvador on a Sunday morning, make a point of going to Rosario for their mass services, whether you’re Catholic or not. It’s packed, but the singing and drumming spills out of the church and can be enjoyed across the largo. You’ll hear some of the most remarkable ecclesiastical music you’ve ever encountered. The music might be termed counter-syncretic, in the sense of countering the integration of Christian iconography into African animist religions in Bahia, by integrating the music of Bahian Candomblé rituals into orthodox Catholic liturgy.
The primary goal of Portuguese maritime expansion ever since the days of Henry the Navigator was propagation of the Faith; if they became fabulously rich in the process, that was useful, but ancillary. Naturally, the Faith they intended to propagate was Roman Catholicism, not African animism. But alas for Henry, the Law of Unintended Consequences still held, and an unanticipated result of Portugal’s conquest of Brazil and importation of African slaves was to transplant the Africans’ religious beliefs along with their labor. (The same thing happened in Louisiana, which is why Marie Leveau wound up a voodoo queen rather than an Ursuline abbess.) Candomble is a Brazilian religion which blended Catholic elements with African beliefs and rites, especially those from Dahomey and SW Nigeria. To a certain extent Catholic missionaries tried to convert Africans by presenting Christian theology and saints as corollaries to pre-existing local beliefs. To a certain extent, since pagan rites were frowned upon by Brazilian civil and church authorities, Candomble congregations adopted a front of Catholicism, focusing on certain saints and symbols—the rosary among them—to deflect persecution. However it came about, Candomble is widespread in Bahia, with well over 2,000 congregations in Salvador alone. And many practicing Catholics have a healthy respect for Candomble, and are not above occasionally attending a ceremony at a terreiro or consulting a mae de santo (as is also true of voodoo in New Orleans).
Music—particularly percussion—has always been an important part of Candomble rites—the word itself means “dance house with drums.” Various sized drums are used: the largest, the rum, leads smaller conga-like le and rumpi. Agogô bells and gourds covered with strung beads (xequeres), add to the musical rhythm. In Candomble ceremonies, the purpose of all this percussion is to assist initiates in going into trances. However, Candomble has influenced Brazilian musical genres such as samba where initiates are more likely to go into dances. Turnabout is fair play, and music is universal. So, since Candomble borrowed from Catholicism, it seems only fair that the preeminent black Catholic church in Bahia should incorporate musical elements of Candomble into their own service. The percussion at N. Senhora do Rosario backs up singing by the congregation. The church’s music is joyful, beautiful, remarkable, and quintessentially Brazilian. It’s like nothing else I’ve ever heard on earth, and trust me, it really works well. Some places are worth traveling to just for their music. New Orleans is one; Vienna is another, but Brazil tops the list for musical destinations. If one of the reasons you’re visiting Brazil is to hear great music, and you’re in Salvador on a Sunday morning, don’t miss this!
Written August 17, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
HavreSanFrancisco
San Francisco64 contributions
Oct 2014 • Solo
Great historical interest in the historical center of Salvador. It shows the contrast between the Portuguese "slave holder" churches and the simple beauty of the oppressed people.
Written October 27, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
travel2findoneself
Los Angeles, California, USA334 contributions
Feb 2019 • Solo
This place is hyped too much and am afraid does not deliver a lot...as an American, we have seen masses like this and it is good to see it in another context but I wouldn't make special time for the special mass...
Written March 11, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
3littleladies
Sacramento, CA17 contributions
Mar 2017 • Solo
I was fortunate to be on Salvador on a Sunday and attend the church service. I would encourage one and all to understand the history of this remarkable church and witness the fusion of religion and African music/custom in the service .
Written March 27, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
elainel600
Lisbon, Portugal31 contributions
Jan 2017 • Couples
The church is very beautiful and the ceremony was amazing with a catholic music with african rythm ! Very friendly ambience , a special experince , I'm sure that I'll return !
Written January 12, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Mabia B
Rio de Janeiro, RJ6 contributions
Jan 2015 • Friends
It is a place when my African roots speakes to me. I know that african people wasn't catholics, but this church represents all my acestors sweat and pain, and also reminds me that we now belong to this country and we made it. We built it.
Written June 8, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
DangerousLiaisons
Nashville, TN266 contributions
Mar 2015 • Family
Church built by enslaved Africans who were initially not allowed to worship. It took them years to finish between building all the other things about town. For its historical importance to life in Bahia in the 18-19th centuries, its a must see and is right in front of Pelhourino Square and near Jorge Amado House. Nominal fee 2 BRL
Written March 24, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Ibadanboy
Nairobi, Kenya5,970 contributions
Mar 2014 • Friends
The Our Lady of the Rosary of Black People church is a lovely & simple building set in the heart of the Pelourinho Square. A historic and important building, it is well worth a visit while you are in Salvador. Highly recommended!
Written December 6, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Gje70
Sydney, Australia13 contributions
Oct 2014 • Couples
The simpleness of the church and the messages on the boards outside which were very deep and meaningful to peoples of colour. Too often their situation and feelings are ignored by others.
Written October 29, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Pretendo viajar no início de novembro, como está a liberação para visitação e missas?
Written September 25, 2020
A que horas a missa é celebrada, e em quais dias?
Written June 28, 2018
Olá!
Visite esse site. Tem todas as informações.
//pelourinhodiaenoite.salvador.ba.gov.br/igreja-de-nossa-senhora-do-rosario-dos-pretos/
Written June 28, 2018
A missa do domingo ainda é as 10h? E também é com tambores como na terça? Grata
Written November 23, 2017
Pela informação que me deram, a missa das 10h de domingo é igual à das 18h das terças, ou seja, com tambores.
Written November 23, 2017
Olá! Tenho um filho de 07 anos e gostaria de conhecer mercado+elevador Lacerda+pelourinho + igreja nossa senhora dos pretos. Faço isso tudo em uma tarde? Queria assistir à missa às 18h. Depois da celebração e conveniente ficar para refeições no pelourinho ou não é seguro?
Written July 13, 2017
Boa noite! Vc consegue fazer tudo numa tarde. Na terça-feira as 18 horas tem missa. Quanto a alimentação, no Pelourinho vc encontra vários restaurantes com preços diversos. Bom passeio e bem vinda Salvador!
Written July 15, 2017
Qual transporte publico uso saindo do hotel Sol barra para o pelourinho?}
Written October 31, 2016
Onibus passa em frente ao hotel:
Opção 1-Onibus Praça da Sé. Desce bem pertinho.
Opção 2- Onibus comercio, desce me frente elevador Lacerda. Sobe de elevador,sai na Praça da Se
Written November 1, 2016
Qual o(s) dia(s) e horario(s) da missa com sincretismo? Pois iremos em agosto agora lá.
Desde já obrigada.
Marcia
Written July 30, 2016
Missas: Seg (missa das almas) 09h / Dom às 10h./Ter às 18h (Sto Antônio Categeró). Última Quarta do mês (Sta Bárbara) às 18h. 1ª Qui de cada mês (Sto Benedito) às 18h./Primeira 4ª do mês é realizada missa em homenagem a São Benedito.
Written July 31, 2016
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