I just got back from my second time going to Embera Pura with Embera Village Tours. You know how sometimes, when you do something a second time, you wonder why you thought it was so great the first time? Well, that's not the experience with visiting the Embera because both times have been incredible. The first time, I went with a dear friend visiting from the States, and this time. my own adult daughter came along. Both of them were very glad they came! And so was I!
The first time, I was blown away by the warmth and genuineness of the people - and this time, I was blown away by the warm welcome back they gave me! Everyone, from the elderly to the youngest kids, greeted me with a hug and a "Bienvenido!" It was amazing.
This tour begins with an hour mini-van ride from Panama City (they pick you up where you live or are staying) and then an hour+ ride in a dugout canoe. The water level is very low this year because there hasn't been enough rain. On the first visit, we were a a group of 6, and it was raining (which was great for the river level!) so we nudged over some low spots, but were basically fine. Coming back downstream after the rain, we practically flew over these same places. This time it was different. It hasn't rained for over a week now, and the river level was extremely low. Plus, there were 9 of us plus our (fabulous!) guide, Archie Kirchman. So the dugout was low in the water to begin with, and when we got to the really low places, the men had to get out of the boat and help push. They actually loved it because it was very hot in the relentless sun! We were able to go downstream without a similar exodus, but we were scraping bottom in a couple of places. That said, we all really enjoyed the ride - esp. when we were traversing some small rapids when the boat swayed and seemed like it would take on water. Exciting, but it didn't get us all wet.
Of course, the best part was once we arrived at the village. There, we learned about the Embera culture from Erito, the man from the village who is responsible for welcoming visitors. He demonstrated how the baskets are woven, how the fibers are dyed, how the tauga nuts are carved, and, best of all, how they use several dances to help with spiritual healing. Actually, the best best part was when we all trooped up to join them!
There were tables with gorgeous crafts - baskets, carvings, jewelry, masks, and even slingshots for those young ones in your life. I had bought several things last time, and was warmly welcomed back by the family who had sold them to me. The wife, who did the weaving, is named Flor and has a 7-month old son, Brody, who is darling. (I got to hold him last time!) It feels good to know the person who made the wonderful mementos. Plus all of the money goes directly to the artisan, so the price is lower AND more helpful to the families.
Lunch is the most delicious tilapia you will ever eat - it's fresh, not farmed, savory and succulent. Patacones, yummy green plantain "fries", served in a palm "dish" and fresh fruit for dessert (Archie brought pineapple, and bananas up from Panama City)
This time, the kids took us up to their school where they proudly told us about their class. The school is a multi-grade primary school that goes to 5th grade. Then, if they want to continue their education, they must go to Panama City and live without their families, as they adapt to traffic, stress, noise and everything else that the city brings.
Also this time, I had made 40 small bracelets for the kids, who were very excited to receive them. Even more exciting was the soccer ball we brought. We also brought up paper, colored pencils, toothbrushes, foam airplanes (think balsa wood airplanes made of plastic), plastic flutes (I hope the parents don't curse us!) and some bottles of bubbles. Erito was so excited to get these! If you decide to go up to the village (and I STRONGLY encourage you to do so!), school supplies are always welcome. The school is staffed by 2 teachers from Panama City who are assigned by the Ministry of Education and who travel upriver every Monday, and return home on Friday.
I really encourage you to go on this tour with this tour company (Embera Village Tours - www.emberavillagetours.com) It is run by a woman who married an Embera man when she was an animal trainer for a film in which the Embera starred. She is a full-fledged citizen of the community, and I trusted her tour to be both more insightful and more beneficial to the community than others might have been. Plus the guide, Archie Kirchman, is knowledgeable and lots of fun.
You will be so glad you went! And if you go back, they will know you. How wonderful that is!