This company offers 2 tours, which I took on consecutive days. Both tours have 6 official food- tasting stops, but both also have numerous other stops for local history, culture, and neighbourhood flavour. Both last about 3 1/2 hours. At the start, both give you a printed guide/map not only of the official stops, but of other restaurants/shops of interest in the area. Also you are given bottled water and a packet of tissues (as you may know, Hong Kong eateries are stingy with their napkins). Both feature food-tasting stops at places you probably wouldn't have noticed or tried yourself (the signage and/or menus are mostly only in Chinese). Local, mostly family-owned and operated places, often by multiple generations. Or the business itself may have a long history, or the building may be historic. Many places make their own offerings on-site and via old-fashioned, labourious methods. Food is the main thing, but you learn so much more--totally worthwhile.
CENTRAL & SHEUNG WAN FOODIE TOUR
Offered 4 times per week, 12 people max, 2:15 pm start (to avoid the lunch crowds). Our guides were Sylvana (she's on their website) and Ed, both excellent, both natives. Central is the business and financial centre of Hong Kong island, lots of recognizable high-rise office buildings. Sheung Wan is the rapidly gentrifying area west of Central--"hot" new restaurants, businesses and housing are quickly suffocating the old-style eateries, businesses, wet markets and traditional housing. More than once on this tour, we were told "take pictures now, this may be gone next time you're in Hong Kong", or "every week we see someplace new opening on this tour". Our tour had some Americans, an Aussie, and a South African/Canadian.
For me, the food-tasting stops offered many tastings familiar to me, but they were among the best I have tasted. The 6 stops were:
1) Wonton noodle shop. Located in a basement, outside sign in Chinese only, menu has English. Family-run and passed down for 3 generations, began as a dai pai dong (a classic open-air food stall still seen all over the city, kind of like an immovable food truck with covered seating). They make their own wontons, fishballs, broth, etc. We had noodles and wonton in broth .The shrimp wontons were HUGE, golf ball-sized, with almost whole fresh shrimp.
2) Roast meat restaurant. Narrow space, popular for take-away. Chinese/English signage, Chinese menu only. Roast meats of all kinds, hanging in the window. We had barbecue pork rice--delish. We were taken into the kitchen to see the large vertical roasting ovens. I would return here another day for take-away.
3) Sugar cane juice. An old business in an old colonial-style building, Chinese-only sign. Right in front a man was placing stalks of sugar cane through a machine over and over, slowly breaking it down. The juice was different, but tasty. The place also sells turtle shell jelly.
4) Preserved fruit shop. Here we were served a lovely kumquat/lemon tea and given a box of preserved fruits of various types, some of which I remembered from my youth.
5) Dim sum. Family-run. Sign and menu in both Chinese and English. Here we were served dim sum classics, among the freshest and best I've had.--shrimp dumplings, pork/shrimp dumplings, deep fried spring rolls, and crispy BBQ pork buns (baos). For me, the baos were a revelation! We're all familiar with the classic steamed white baos, and I'v had many a delish baked bao in the States, but the dough on these baos was totally new for me--chewy with a slight crunch and sweetness not unlike Hong Kong's famous pineapple bun (served on the other tour)--I think it's both baked and fried. And since I would have baos similar to these twice more at other places (Tim Ho Wan, Lung King Heen), I consider this a veritable paradigm shift in the way baked baos are made in Hong Kong!. I must now research to see if such baos exist in Los Angeles! I would return here on my own another day. Go after the lunch crowd. You are given a menu and pencil to place your order; there are photos or each item on the tables. The baos here were the cheapest of the 3 places I tried.
6) Bakery/pastry shop. Chinese/English signage. For take-away, no dining area--we were eating on the narrow sidewalk and street. We were served a classic egg tart, but this too was new and revelatory for me because the tart had a shortcrust pastry, as in shortbread-like, as in butter, butter, butter! Egg tarts I've had before, in the US and here, must have had shortening or lard crusts, including some place we went to on my first visit here, guided by an English publication's recommendation, where we ate the tarts on the street as buses full of locals laughed at us. This was the best and biggest egg tart I've had.
Non-tasting stops included some dai pai dongs under the Mid-Level escalators (which the government is threatening to close for sanitation reasons), Graham St. wet market, also slated for redevelopment (massive construction already encroaches one side), a dried seafood shop, a Dr. Sun Yat-Sen shout-out, Man Mo Temple, Cat St. (which has 2 other names), a snake shop (for soup).
I had walked many of these streets before (this was my 5th Hong Kong visit), but I learned so much and discovered new places to return to in the future on this tour. Hopefully, they'll still be there next time.
As an aside, I would find out later that Sylvana is an Eilte-level Yelper. She kind of dissed a new restaurant in Central the International New York Times raved about (and was also mentioned in Travel & Leisure magazine) that I was planning to try. I ended up not going, not because of her diss, but because I was too mellow after a great spa treatment to leave my hotel. Maybe next time, if it's still there.
SHAM SHUI PO FOODIE TOUR
Offered 3 times a week, 8 people max, 9:15 am start. Our guide was the excellent Fiona. Sham Shui Po is on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, somewhat north of the Tsim Sha Tsui harbourfront. It seems like kind of a working-class neighbourhood, with older walk-up residential buildings (complete with laundry hanging out of many a window), busy street markets filled more with locals than tourists, no modern skyscrapers like in Central. Much more local colour and flavour. The tour began in the MTR station, which Fiona told us all have restrooms--you have to ask an employee to guide you. Everyone but me on our tour was Aussie. Before the tour started, I did a restroom stop at a nearby McDonald's, where they served some quasi-Asian dishes and red bean pies, as well as apple pies.
These food stops offered a few tastings that were new to me. The 6 stops were:
1) Hong Kong-stlye cafe. No English anywhere. Here we had milk tea and pineapple buns. The milk tea was strong but good. The pineapple buns were outstanding. Some of us commented on how large they were, but there was nary a crumb left when we were through. It was like eating a soft but crunchy and sweet cloud. We got a peek at the buns being made, the ovens, and a man making the milk tea by straining it many times through what looked like a ladies' stocking.
2) Chinese-style breakfast. Tiny place, no English anywhere, long queue for take-away. No tables were free, so Fiona told us to look for a table that looked like they were about finished, and then basically hover and breathe down their necks until they were done. We ended up squeezing into a table where a single local man took his merry time finishing his congee. We were served rice rolls--sheets of rice "pasta" rolled up jelly-roll style and then cut into bit-sized pieces. You sauce them with peanut and hoisin sauces and a sprinkling of sesame seeds. They are eaten with wooden skewers (like a long toothpick) because they're too slippery for chopsticks. Delish, and new to me. Great local experience.
3) Soy product shop. No English. They only serve 3 soy products, which are made on-site--we saw the machinery/methods. Most of us tried the tofu dessert, ladled out of a big pot in thin layers, served hot with ginger syrup and sugar. Pretty good; I've had it before in the US, but not with ginger. Two people opted for the soybean milk, served warm or chilled.
4) Braised meat shop. No English. Apparently a Chiu Chow-Hong Kong fusion. We had braised goose and pork knuckle served with a dipping sauce and rice. Delish. I think this is the first time I've had goose--it tastes very similar to duck, but is more expensive.
5) Traditional Chinese bakery. No English. Here we were given a packet of cookies--walnut, almond and sesame. Some gobbled theirs then and there, I saved mine for later--also delish.
6) Noodle shop. No English, but there was a photo of Samantha Brown with the owners in the window. Also a write-up and photo of an apparently famous and respected Chinese food critic. We started the tasting with pickled turnips, then had egg noodles with shrimp roe and broth served alongside. The noodles are hand-made with a bamboo pole by the owners at home. The shrimp roe was a new taste for me, a bit bracing but far more pleasant than Chinese dried shrimp, which I do not care for. Others were not so enthused.
Non-tasting stops included wet market streets with noodle shops and shops selling dried things, including a dried gecko-like reptile splayed out on a stick like a fan. We stopped at a kitchen supply store featuring knives of many shapes. The area has a lot of notions shops (buttons, ribbon, fabric, etc.), some pawnshops, local clothing stores and phone/electronics stores and stands (including a discount electronics mall). We also stopped at a snake shop that served snake soup and snakes in cages awaiting slaughter. Fiona also stopped and discussed the difficult housing situation for the city's poor, showing pics on her phone of "cage houses"--stacked cages meant to house large animals that some humans call home. Quite distressing, especially after seeing renovated loft buildings in Central that rent for $75,000 HKD monthly, and a tacky pink Bentley whose garage space rent isprobably nearly as costly.
Overall, very worthwhile tours. I would try to do one or the other at the beginning of your visit, so you can return to the places visited. Plus, you'll learn about so much more than food on these tours, about this always fascinating, always frenetic, always changing (not necessarily for the better) city.