Evran, our guide for the day, was waiting in the lobby of the Grand Yavuz Hotel (where we stayed compliments of Turkish Airlines’ layover program) before 9:00 AM and was very friendly and communicative right away. Our tour of Istanbul was entirely on foot, and I did wonder now and then if he’d checked ahead of time to be sure we were all fit enough to walk the city’s hilly streets from 9 to 5! He brought us to all the sights, giving advice (it was fine, for example, for the women in our group to don hoodies at the mosques instead of purchasing veils) and providing history and facts on each. We were surprised when he brought us to an out-of-the-way shop called Vezirhan Carpets & Kilim and the staff showed us silkworms and weaving techniques, like it was a museum tour. Then they sat us down and offered drinks. Huh? Then the show continued as rug after rug was presented and explained and we were invited to walk barefoot on the rugs. Was it all a set up so we’d buy a $2,000 rug? We hadn’t planned to do so, and eventually walked out empty-handed. Evran said “no need to tip them!” when we tried. He brought us to the Grand Bazaar to the “best places” and we did buy some artwork from Nick Merdenyan’s tiny stall and spices and tea from another place. Evran took us to a lunch spot and sat down with us to eat when invited. We had a lovely lunch. Evran was knowledgeable, fun to chat with, and helpful. I rate him 5 out of 5 stars!