Hey Ketawan:
We did the same trip last April, and highly recommend it! In general, most of the online postings you find give the correct overall impression. Here are a few specific tips from us:
- April is a great time to go. But pack for all weather. Most if not all of the winter snow has melted from the trails by then, but you can suddenly get up to a half meter of new snow in a single night, so bring good, waterproof boots and wool socks! We wore wool gloves and hats every day, even at the lower altitudes - at least in the mornings.
- No matter what the weather, bring warm clothes for the nights. Most of the overnight options have some heat in their central meeting/dining room, but the bedrooms hover right above or below freezing in all but the couple first nights. Some nights, before you actually get in your sleeping bag, or mornings when you get up, it seems you just can't get relief from the penetrating cold.
- Most people can do the standard EBC trip up and back in 10 - 12 days. If you're fit and want the challenge, you can go for the slightly longer 'loop' route, which has more ups and downs, and takes around 15 days. Because far less people take the loop route, you don't have to book accommodation there - and can just leave this option as a possibility until you're there and see how you acclimate to the conditions and what weather you have.
- We didn't feel we got the right information about altitude sickness before we went, even though we had been to that elevation several times before. Altitude sickness can range from simple headaches to something more complicated and life-threatening. We saw numerous people get helicoptered down from the mountains every day (at thousands of dollars cost to them). Many people (up to 50%??), however, don't get very sick at these moderate altitudes, if they just go slowly and take their time. All the guides make sure you do this, so you don't really have to think about it too much. But you do have to decide whether to take the altitude sickness tablets or not. One option is to just take them, period. The side effects are minor, similar to taking sea-sickness tablets. Another option is to wait and see how it goes. But in this case, if you start to feel some of the altitude sickness symptoms, you have to start taking the tablets and wait at least one day in the same place in order for them to take effect. Thus you need to build an extra day or two into your trip schedule, just in case. Finally, it seems you can't wait too long to take the tablets. We heard that you need to make the decision before reaching 4500m. After that, the tablets may never really take effect. But we're not fully sure about this - you hear different things from different 'experts'. All we know is we were 4 persons, and only two had any serious effects from altitude. One of them started taking the tablets right away, at around 3500m, and the other didn't. The one who took them made it to EBC, without serious problems. The one who didn't was miserable and had to turn back at 5,500m.
- No matter which route you go and how many days you have, the views are spectacular, every single day. We have so many unbelievable photos of 5,000, 6,000 and 7,000 meter mountains, and they're nothing compared to the bigger ones (which we also have great photos of)!
- Oh, and you might get tired of the food and tea after 2+ weeks, but we found the quality and quantity to be fine - even with some high-volume and fairly picky eaters! Based on the recommendations from others, we went entirely vegetarian, and found that worked out fine (we had plenty of energy, and none of us got sick once - until after the trip!).
- I don't know if it's appropriate to put in a plug for someone here, but we used Prem of Landmark Discovery Treks to guide our trip. Not only was he our 'complete' guide and friend, but he has trekked so much in this area that he knows everyone and was able to change our route and overnight bookings on a day-by-day basis to suite our particular needs and desires of the moment, with no extra cost or inconvenience, just using his mobile phone.
- Interestingly, most people book their trip with a guide and porters 'package' before they get there. I would say 90-95%. I believe most people book before getting to Nepal, but it's also possible to do it after you arrive in Kathmandu. I can't really see the advantage of waiting, though. In general, you get what you pay for. If you pay more, you stay in slightly better places. Of the few people doing it on their own, tenting and backpacking, many of them surprisingly didn't seem to know what they were doing. Not bringing enough clothes, good enough boots, or winter sleeping bags. We met some guys who were desperately borrowing blankets because they didn't have good enough sleeping bags. We expected only the experts would be doing it this way, but in fact the experts, those who were actually climbing to the top of Everest or one of the other smaller peaks, were all at least using porters. Another consideration - there are a number of check stations where you have to have the proper permits and have paid the right fees; you can do it all yourself, but it can be a hassle. Conclusion: You can definitely do this trek on your own, if you're experienced in high-mountain camping and trekking, and want the challenge. But you would be crazy to do it like this if you're not experienced, and really don't know what you're getting yourself in to.