Disclaimer: I was traveling in the week between Christmas and NYE which apparently is the busiest week of the year for Ethiopia tourism so I reckon this tour operator was simply overwhelmed. It seemed like he subcontracted a lot of work, hiring jeeps that were substandard rather than just using his usual ones. But there is always the option of turning clients away rather than letting service and quality languish like this - this was meant to be a highlight of my trip for which I'd traveled from halfway across the world. The quantity of people definitely impaired slightly the experience, for example we arrived at the one place in the sand flaks where there is a gorgeous emerald water hole, but it was tiny and there soon arrived about 20 jeeps full of people! In these kind of conditions it would be good if the tour operators thought of ways to avoid peak times because noone goes to the desert to be surrounded by people!
Negatives: Our convoy of jeeps had to stop about ten days on trip to the Danakil Depression due to one of the automobiles breaking down. As a result, we ended up arriving super late at Erta Ale, pretty much the last group to go up, it all felt very rushed. The tour guide for our tour actually only arrived on day two, and he was useless, didn't explain anything, wasn't particularly friendly, was poorly equipped- for example didn't even have a torch to light up the way for people around the volcano crater which is pretty dangerous. When I asked him about it, he said: "All I need is the moonlight". Sure but what about your responsability to your clients? On the last day, we'd been promised to see a certain lake but he was in another car and obviously decided to skip it because he just drove past it. And while sleeping under the stars sounds romantic, they should think to warn clients about the winds and provide sleeping bags. I didn't really catch a wink of sleep. Finally, up the volcano they rented such a tiny space for us to sleep on that we were all huddled up like sardines. AT least two of the people on the tour got their money back (I didn't think to ask)
Positives: Kiros, the tour agency chief, seems like a genuinely nice, competent and well cultured guy. When the airline lost my bag, he arranged to have it picked up when it finally arrived and sent out to me with another group. The Danakil tour is a great adventure, the Dallol springs in particular are spectacular. We were unfortunate that the volcano had been super active the night before but was barely active when we were there, plus there were no camel caravans, so maybe lower expectations a little - it's not all like in the guidebooks! The food on the tour was great, having wine at sunset on the salt flaks was magical, I really liked our driver, which is important on such long roadtrips through such tricky terrain.