The prior review does a great job of providing a detailed description of the church. The most interesting part of the church to me was the memorial for the Oklahoma priest who had served the community. He was killed in the civil war and was honored as a martyr. Our tour guide told us that his heart was at the base of the memorial. Kind of creepy but interesting, nonetheless.

As most people know, Santiago is the Spanish equivalent of St. James and this rather unprepossessing looking church is, in English, Saint James the Apostle Church. It dates all the way back to the 1540's and lies in the shadow of the mighty Atitlan volcano which rises to 11,598 feet (3,535 metres) which in the Rockies would be a good sized mountain. The steps you see are actually over a thousand years old and once led to a Mayan temple which the Christians of course destroyed to build the church atop in an act of religious oneupmanship. But it didn't actually work as I entered what is one of the most fascinating churches I've ever visited anywhere. Tony our guide took us on a tour of the interior which has more than a few things of passing interest starting with the various saints decorated by groups that are unique to Guatemala, the cofradias. These are religious brotherhoods that date back to the Spanish conquest and were originally intended to help spread Catholicism and stamp out native beliefs. Instead they have morphed into something similar to the krewes of Louisiana who each have their own distinct colours and symbols. The entire church is lined with these brightly coloured figures. Sometimes things are not as they first seem to appear. I've included a photo of the pink cofradia. But take a closer look at the Virgin Mary. She's got two babies, not just the usual one. Here's where things get tricky and try as I might, I can find no one coherent explanation for the two babies. Here is Tony's version. The second baby is actually Judas. Yes, you read that right. For Mayans, the death of their religion at the hands of the Spanish priests was not cause for celebration or a great awakening, but rather an execration. The one figure from Christianity that many of them could embrace was Judas who was responsible for getting Christ killed and thus in their eyes, more powerful than Jesus. There are umpteen versions of the story and they are all bizarre. The altar of the church is fairly standard, but what's behind it is not. The apse has some beautiful woods carvings and a very nice trinity which at first glance looks like an old guy on a motorized scooter. One a more serious note, there is an important monument near the church entrance that is worth examining and learning the story of Father Stanley Rother. He was an American priest who came to Santiago Atitlan and during the civil war, defied the authorities and stood up for the Mayan people that were frequently the target of massacres during this time. For that, he paid with his life and has been recognized as a genuine martyr in every sense of the that word. Although his body is buried in his native state of Oklahoma, Stanley Rother's heart is buried here and that seems appropriate because he gave his heart and his life to the Tz'ujutil people. While I might not agree with religious proselytizing, no one can dispute the goodness of this man's intentions to help the poor and downtrodden. In this world where Catholic priests are just as often seen as predators rather than protectors, it is comforting to know that that some truly follow the true teachings and example of Jesus, even if it costs them their lives. Beside the church is the rectory and Tony points out the very spot where Rother was murdered by a government backed death squad in 1981. Sadly that was not the end of the violence. In 1990, eleven more people were killed in Santiago Atitlan by the army which had a base nearby. That event caused such an international uproar that the base was closed and since then life in this small place has returned to a semblance of normalcy.