We were a little unsure about doing a wine tour in Hungary so close to Budapest, but we didn't want to give up a whole day to go further afield to Tokaj, Eger or Szekszard. This left us with very few options, and we also wanted something more than just the wine. We settled on a lunch tour with a cheese tasting option with City and Wine Tours to the Etyek-Buda wine region, just outside of the Budapest area.
The tour started off a little late on account of the traffic (we were staying on Andrassy ut. which can be pretty busy at 10am) but that was pretty quickly forgotten once we met our wonderful guide Susan. Our group was 8 people - a mixture of ages and nationalities (Irish, Finnish, American, Australian). Sometimes the group you are with can make or break these kinds of tours, but we were fortunate to be in a group of pretty passionate travellers and wine drinkers.
On the drive to our first stop, Susan explained the history of winemaking in Hungary and the regions, which was interesting and explained in an entertaining way. The culture of winemaking and consumption is national in Hungary, and Susan spoke with genuine passion.
The scenery was really lovely once we got off the main roads - quaint villages surrounded by hillside vineyards.
Our first stop included oue cheese tasting option. The cheesemaker did not speak English, but this did not matter as Susan translated and some things don't need translation when it comes to wine and cheese. We got excellent explanations about the cheeses and the techniques, and good quality wines from the winery next door paired to the various cheeses. The location itself, in the cheesemaking room, was really lovely. You could buy all the products as well if you wished. Susan happily took photos of the group and for each of us individually.
We we rejoined by those who only tasted wine at the winery next door and headed for the second location, which was the home of a winemaker. They were wonderfully welcoming and the location was very pretty. Here, the winemaker explained the different wines to be tasting during our 3 course traditional cooked lunch. The atmosphere was really homely and welcoming, and the group sat around the table and ate and drank as friends would. The food provided by our hosts was very good, traditional, hearty and tasty.
So, the wines themselves.
I didn't really have much of an expection of Hungarian wine. Apart from Tokaji, I have not been exposed to it much. But, they do some really good wines in the region. Whites are better than reds here (in my opinion), and the sparkling wines are quite good and refreshing. Favourite wine varietal was Irsai Olivèr by far ... a really light, slightly floral and fruity varietal that is something between a Gewürztraminer and an unwooded or young Viognier. I'd take it over Sauvignon Blanc / Sancerre and many a Pinot Gris / Grigio if on offer but that's just me.
Susan had already emailed the group pictures from the day taken with her iPhone by the time we were at our hotels, which was really great. Susan herself was an exccellent tour host both in terms of the content and her personality. You'd have to be a very tough judge to not enjoy this tour.
But one caution to the serious wine aficionados. Don't expect the wine tasting to be like you would experience in Burgundy, Bordeaux or any one of the Australian wine regions my wife and I have been to. Hungarians are very passionate about their wine and, more specifically. their grape varietals and methods. But Hungarians make wine primarily for themselves, and not for wealthy wine connoisseurs from abroad (Tokaji aside). The quality is good to very good, but don't expect a day full of Grand Cru and endless swilling and spitting. If you choose this tour, just sit back, enjoy the scenery, the history, the people along the way and the wine will be all the better for it.
