Prokletije National Park
Prokletije National Park
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GoranWembley
United Kingdom4,100 contributions
May 2016 • Solo
Trekking the Montenegrin side of the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije) is now easier due to some very reasonably priced accommodation additions primarily in Grbaje. Probably possible to camp in summer months too. You'll still need your own transport to get to Grbaje or it'll be a mini bus to Gusinje then taxi. Or many minibuses if coming from the south via Berane or Andrijevica or Plav, then taxi for the last 8km ride from Gusinje. On a positive note, the 17km road stretch through Albania is almost done and maybe next year it'll be possible to reach Gusinje from Podgorica in less than 1.5 hours compared to 3-4 hours now. Note: there's only one sign in Gusinje pointing towards Grebaje: pass the 'main street', pass the old Vezir Mosque and pass the medical station (hospital?); then it's the right turn after 1.5km where the sign points towards 'Planinarski dom Karanfil' (white background) or Katolicka Crkva (tourist brown background); then drive for the next 7km or so until the road ends in Grebaje.

Grbaje is the ideal place to base yourself for trekking the Montenegrin part of the Accursed Mountains. There are two groups of trails in Grebaje: an easier one leading to Volustica, Karaula and Trojan and a more difficult one leading up the Karanfil. The trails in the first group can be trekked between May and October but the Karanfil trekking season is shorter. All trails are supposedly marked.

I was there in May and it was just about possible to trek Volustica and Karaula. The trail is well marked if a little confusing. There's absolutely no problem getting to Karaula, it's up to 2.5 hrs trek one way. See below on how to get to Volustica.

There's a sign pointing towards both Karaula and Volustica once you pass Katun Maja Karanfil accommodation and restaurant establishment and before the mountaineering association building. Fine. Then you just follow the markings for about 20 minutes where the sign painted on the tree says: Volustica to the left and Karaula to the right. Ignore and just keep following the markings up through the forest.

You'll loose the trees after 1-1.5 hours of trekking and there will be a crossroad with red arrows painted on the rock face. It's faded and I could only worked out where it says 'Volustica' in Cyrillic. Ignore and carry on along the stream if your destination is Karaula (if there's stream at all in summer months). Go left and cross the stream if you want to go to Volustica.

It wasn't possible to trek the Karanfil without some extra equipment when I was there in May. Also, I received information it would be irresponsible to trek the Karanfil if the weather on the day of the intended trek as well as on the day before wasn't completely dry. I'm hoping to come back soon and do the Northern Peak (Sjeverni vrh) in the Karanfil part of the Accursed Mountains.

There are also Ali Pasha Springs close to Gusinje that are worth a visit. The water features are beautiful, but not well kept. One day of collective litter collection would make the area attractive again. The once beautiful building is abandoned.

It's an easy 10 min drive from Ali Pasha Springs to Vusanje for the Skakavica (aka Grlja) waterfall. The waterfall is nice and there's a parking lot where you can leave your car if thinking of visiting Oko Skakavice Springs. Oko is maybe 20 minutes of a very nice walk from the waterfall.

Further away there's Plav and Plavsko jezero (Plav Lake) which is possible to visit on a self drive half day tip from Gusinje and Grebaje; and even furhter Komovi (via Andrijevica) and the Berane-Petnjica-Trpezi-Rozaje scenic ride and these are both possible to visit on a two full day drives from Gusinje/Grebaje.

I'm looking forward to come back to the area one day as well as to exploring the Albanian side of the Accursed Mountains, which looked spectacular from the viewpoints in Montenegro
Written July 5, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Formidabiliman
Uccle, Belgium27 contributions
Aug 2015 • Family
Volusnica is a 700m ascend to a peak which will give yo a magnificent viewing point on that part of the Prokletije mountains. Once on top you can add a 2 hour ridge walk which will bring you back to the track down. The tracked is marked as easy. This should be explained, what is easy about the track is, well, the track. It's well marked and there's no difficult passages you could do it with normal shoes (altough I don't recommend it). But, it IS a 700m ascend on a very steep path so get ready to get physical. It's well worth the effort and I swear to you, you will forget all about your sore muscles once on top. If you're luckier then us you won't have storm once on top forcing you to spend but 2 minutes up there.
Written August 20, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

mare69
Novo Mesto, Slovenia114 contributions
Jul 2012 • Family
Like Ami Boue said:

"The most inexplicable, the most unapproachable and the wildest mountain range on Balkan peninsula and, after Alps, in Europe. Southern Alps of Europe!"

I checked last week and every word is true.

The Prokletije mountains are one of the highest and without doubt most hyperkarstic mountain ranges of the Balkan Peninsula whose white naked karstic and jagged ridges and peaks, build form limestone and dolomite show many cirques that create an imposing wild image which sends shivers and fear to visitors.

Prokletije is surely one of the last mountains in Europe that has not been discovered entirely yet, one of the most enclosed, most reserved and most romantic places in Europe.
Written August 5, 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

GDabelko
Athens, OH15 contributions
Jun 2019 • Business
I've been lucky to visit Prokletije Mountains and the new national park three times. Each time it was with a group of college students from the US on a study abroad program. Start with the visitors center in Gusinje. Not open all the time but great topo map, cultural and ecological displays. The new national park needs visitors to support an under-funded mandate that must compete with those who would just see the timber as the only asset in the mountains. Check out Ali Pasha Springs near the visitors center. Short visit but amazing amount of water coming straight out of the mountains. Then go on into the park and deep into the mountains. Great small inn near the park entrance in Vuthji called Restorant Hartini right next to the Gerla waterfall. Lovely places to sit outside for coffee or a beer. Continue up the road (with 4 wheel drive, the higher clearance the better) up to the Blue Eye, another upwelling that starts a river from the karst underground water system. Keep going up the increasingly dodgy road and you can set off for the Albanian border and he most magnificent hike up and over the mountains to Thethi, Albania. Definitely want a guide if you aren't familiar with the park or experienced back country (Pavlin Polia from Thethi is outstanding on the Albania side, Enes "Enko" Dreskovic or his recommendation out of Plav on the Montenegrin side - literally larger than life) as it is a good 12 miles that can include some snow crossings in the pass. The path is marked with the red and white Austrian flag who donated to the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Too bad they couldn't resist inserting their own nationalism into it. Promise it will rank as one of the top days of your life it is such a brilliant hike.
Written June 26, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Satyabrata Dam
New Delhi1,782 contributions
Aug 2017 • Friends
I am a professional climber having climbed all over the world, yet the views of these mountains was simply majestic. Spent two days climbing four peaks in the area. The trails are all well marked and doable by reasonably fit people. Please carry water, you won't find anywhere once out of the forest. These are dry rocky mountains so be careful. There are many caves and lakes to visit too. Have at least five to seven days to see it properly. Do climb Osnejak. It's a great climb.
Written September 8, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

TravellingJan
San Carlos, CA304 contributions
Aug 2014 • Couples
We spent a day touring these mountains on a private jeep tour with RAMS Travel. The scenery is amazing and you do not see anyone else touring. This is a very special area and if you do not have the physical ability to trek, a jeep tour is the way to go. Also, you can cover the entire area in a day and it's vast and so incredibly beautiful. Also, when you go with RAMS' owners, you get to stop anywhere you want and take photos and linger in those special places!! Truly worth it. Wow...
Written September 11, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Noémie C
253 contributions
Aug 2018 • Couples
We did the grbaja valley hiking on the Valusnica through three peaks. It was amazing and seeing the people walking on the edge was really impressive. We were not that fit because of a knee surgery and still could make it! Highly recommended! But piece of advice: do it in the morning or start quite early! Sudden thunderstorms is no joke in Montenegro. We already had the case on bobotov kuk and did not laugh about it until we were in the car.

Do it :)

It's really well marked!
1h30 more less in the forest then 2-3 hours in the open space. And there is a water point in the forest!
Written August 11, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Samer H
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina113 contributions
Jul 2016 • Friends
The Prokletije mountain range are part of long mountain chain which is stretching through the Balkan peninsula, named Dinaric Alps. Not so long ago group of enthusiasts decided to make officially alive long distance trail named Via Dinarica.

Prokletije mountains are the most southern in this mountain chain and definitely like "cherry on top of the cake". No matter the side you start to hike or just admiring them from valleys down below, you'll be charmed. I visited this area few times (in summer and winter) and you always have a feeling; "I have to came back for more...".

In recent years there is more and more infrastructure on all mountain sides and it's easier to reach some areas, than it was before. Which definitely makes these mountains more accessible. Still the wilderness and beauty of this area is not disturbed and can only be compared with European Alps.

If you visit this area, you will definitely ask for more.... :)
Written December 22, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Freerk W
Amsterdam, The Netherlands41 contributions
Aug 2015 • Couples
We spent three days in Prokletije National Park in Montenegro. The mountains are stunningly beautiful. The hiking is lovely with great views as reward. The mountainbike opportunities are numerous. But the best part for us was the opportunity for wild camping in the Grbaja Valley, just North of Gusinje. Not to be missed!
Written August 20, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Raf V
Geel, Belgium20 contributions
Jun 2015 • Friends
We only had time for two hikes: an easy valley hike in the Ropojana valley and a mountain hike to Volusnica and Tatijanka (from Grebaje valley). The Ropojana valley is full of incredible hydrographic features. If you drive down Ropojana valley to start a hike after Vusanje, go and visit Ali Pasha springs first. This is a 300 sq meters spring, basically a fairly sized river just welling up out of the ground. At the parking lot in Vusanje there is a nice waterfall carving a narrow gorge out of the limestone. Further up the valley you'll find lots of little springs here and there, and the amazing Oko Skakavice, a very deep, turquoise spring flanked by a beautiful waterfall. Wildflowers grow in abundance.
The peaks west of Grebaje valley offer unforgettable vistas on some of the most gorgeous mountains in the range (e.g. Karanfili). The path starting at the Branko hut is easy (but sometimes steep) all the way up to Tatijanka. It is possible to continue into Albania and return through the Dolina Grebaje, but the trail is sometimes hard to find and you'll need a good head for heights. The return path is waymarked in Albania, but stops at the border and the Montenegrin part of the path seems all but abandoned.
Two days is not nearly enough, wish we had spent more time here. Go now before tourism really takes off in this area!
Written July 4, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

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