Sognefjorden
Sognefjorden
4.5
About
Stretching 204 km (120 miles) from Solund at the coast to the mighty Jotunheimen massif and Jostedalsbreen glacier, Sognefjorden is the longest fjord in Norway. The Sognefjord has a maximum depth of 1308 metres (4300 feet), and is Norway’s deepest fjord. You can choose between different boat trips to experience the beauty of the fjords all year round. At the mouth of the fjord the climate is maritime, whereas the innermost parts of the fjord have a much drier inland climate. Because of the contact with the warm ocean water of the Gulf Stream, the main fjord never freezes to ice. The Sognefjord has several distinctive fjord arms winding their way between steep mountains to end in small, picturesque villages. One of them is the world-famous Naeroyfjord, which has now been included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. This is the most narrow fjord arm. The innermost fjord arm is the Lusterfjord, and this fjord has a beautiful green colour because of the meltwater from the glaciers. Some places along the Sognefjord the difference in altitude between the highest mountain peak and the lowest point in the fjord is about 3000 metres (9800 feet). Fjords represent a unique landscape that is found in only a few places in the world. A common definition of a fjord is a long and narrow inlet of sea often surrounded by high and steep mountainsides. Some 20 000 years ago the fjord was shaped and formed by glacial ice in river valleys.
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fromNewJersey
Demarest, New Jersey23 contributions
May 2011
Five glorious days in the Sognefjord of Norway.
Oslo to Flam
We picked up our new Volvo in Gothenberg, Sweden on Monday, May 2, 2011 and drove to Copenhagen on Tuesday where we spent three days before boarding the DFDS ferry on Friday to Oslo, the first leg of our journey to the Sognefjord. We had made reservations and booked a cabin about a month before for the overnight trip to Oslo. The ferry was really a cruise ship and we enjoyed the experience. We arrived in Oslo at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday quite rested and full from an excellent buffet breakfast and headed out immediately for the Sognefjord area and our first stop-over in Flam.
The Sognefjord is the longest and deepest fjord in the western part of Norway and has many arms we were hoping to explore in the limited time we had. My husband Jeff did all the driving and let me say here he is a wiz at reading maps and navigating the roads. Somehow, though there was construction all around the ferry port he was able to get us on the E16 ---a major highway that leads to the western part of Norway. I had read that it would take about 4-5 hours to get to Flam, but we didn’t arrive until around 6:00 Saturday evening. Even though E16 is a major highway, most of it is two lanes, curvy, and has speed limits that vary from 45 to an occasional 70 mph. We also stopped often to take photos.
The scenery out of Oslo is pretty ----forests with big expanses of water on either side --- some of which are parts of the fjords around Oslo. After we stopped at the outskirts of a little village called Bagn to eat a lunch of cheese sandwiches we had bought on the ferry we started to drive higher into the mountains and the scenery became more and more wonderful especially after we passed the town of Fagernes.We were surrounded by the very high, steep, and dramatic mountains of the fjords with very green valleys on either side of the waters where fields of apple trees were just beginning to bloom. And all along the way are well-kept farm houses or cabins with trim painted in contrasting colors. This is an agricultural area (as is all of Norway outside the few cities) and when we got out of the car most times there was a good, earthy smell of cow manure that was spread on the fields. The buildings are not only in the villages in the valleys but many are also situated on very high remote spots on the mountains and we couldn’t help wondering how the inhabitants get up there, especially in winter. We found out later that in many instances they walk and bring their supplies in by sled. These Norwegians are very hearty people! The mountains and the valleys and all they hold were reflected in the waters of the fjords which were very still that day so our eyes were filled with a double image. At some point we climbed even higher to the top of the mountains above the tree line and found ourselves in snow covered moon-like surroundings. Here again are cabins and houses but we hardly saw another car or any people. Descending back down into lower lands we passed through the lovely little village of Laerdal and then had to drive through the world’s longest tunnel into Flam, not because we wanted to but because the “old” and very scenic road I had read about over the mountains was closed and impassable due to snow. We were disappointed about this but came to realize later that the road we had just travelled on and those we would find ourselves on in the next days are surely just as gloriously varied and scenic.
Flam
Most of what I had read about Flam is that it is just a spot with a few hotels, souvenir shops, and the place to get on the famous tourist ferry and train. That is all true but it’s also in a beautiful valley at the head of the Aurlandsfjord surrounded by high mountain walls. There are some nice walks we would have taken around the area if we had booked more than one night’s stay at the Flamsbrygga Hotel. Our accommodation was just fine and included a very good breakfast buffet. The friendly young woman at the desk worked out a schedule for us to follow the next day that would allow us to see all the sights we had heard about and still get to our next lodging on Sunday night by 7:00. She even looked up and translated the directions for driving to that lodging.
On Sunday morning right after breakfast we walked from the hotel lobby to the pier where we bought tickets and boarded the 9:00 ferry for Gudvangen, another small village at the head of the Naeroyfjord (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) which is an arm of the Sognefjord . The two hour tour takes you through the most beautiful scenery you can imagine. I can’t find the words to properly convey the sheer immensity of the steep rock walls dotted with literally at least a hundred waterfalls of varying intensity, the greenness of the valley, and the quaintness of the neat, painted villages and houses all along the route. We could have stayed on the boat for the trip back to Flam but we wanted to make the 12:20 Flam railroad tour so when we got off the ferry around 11:00 at Gudvangen and walked from the pier about 300 meters up to the main road and caught the bus to Flam at 11:28.
We had time to eat a quick lunch (this time cheese sandwiches we had made for ourselves from the Flamsbrygga’s breakfast buffet) before we boarded the Flam train for an hour’s ascent up to Myrdal high on the top of the mountains and the descent back down to Flam. The train was almost empty so we could jump from one side of the aisle to the other to see the constantly changing views of the very green valleys way below us which were breathtaking. It was wonderful to experience the fjords from high up in the mountains on the train as well as at sea level on the ferry.
Before getting into our car back in Flam at about 2:30 on Sunday Jeff went into the Flamsbrygga to thank the receptionist at the desk for her flawless plans and then we were off for, despite the truly awesome scenery we had already experienced, what was to be the most memorable part of our trip.
Nes Gard
Our destination was a B&B called Nes Gard ( I had learned about it though a contributor to TripAdvisor who has a wonderful website called onelittleworld.com).
From Flam we had to go back through the long tunnel on E16, get onto Route 5 and board the Fodnes-Mannheller ferry to eventually get to Route 55 on the west side of the Lusterfjord, another arm of the Sognefjord. Nes Gard is located right on Route 55 in the village of Nes. We arrived around 6:00 in time to make the 7:00 dinner offered at an additional charge for the bed with breakfast and more than well worth it. When our host showed us around the place and where we would sleep I thought I had reached paradise.
Nes Gard is an old farm house with auxiliary buildings and barns surrounded by fields full of ewes and their lambs that run and jump up in the air on all fours for the joy of it. Across the road is a lovely church and grave yard ( oldest date of birth on one of the stones is 1770) and four rams roam in the field next to the church. Beyond the backyard of the church is the water of the Lusterfjord and its mountains on the other side with the wonderful Feigumfossen waterfall cascading down into the valley. The spray from this waterfall the next day provided us with an hour long rainbow.
We had arrived at Nes Gard just as a confirmation party was in full swing and many of the guests wore the traditional costumes of Norway which our host said was the usual mode of dress for special occasions. We were offered coffee and cake and then, because of the party, instead of eating in the dining room we were served a dinner of diced melon and ham, smoked pork with vegetables, and flan on our porch where we could watch the lambs if we looked to our left or view the church and the waterfall in the mountains behind if we looked to our right.
Meandering around the glaciers areas of the Lusterfjord
Our host was an expert on the area and helped us plan our excursions for the next two days. On Monday we took route 55 to 604 to the Bergsetbreen area. (Breen means glacier.) We had planned to park the car and walk along a trail for about an hour to get a close view of the glacier but the trail was covered with snow. Still we decided to proceed with the help of the walking sticks we had brought along and certainly needed even though we were able only to follow the footsteps in the snow of someone who had previously been there. After about 45 minutes we lost sight of the footsteps and wound up in a bog area so we returned to our car but we both felt good about the walk because we were, once again, surrounded by beautiful, stark, steep, immense mountains.
We drove to the Norwegian Glacier Museum and Jostedalen Glacier Visitors Center nearby where we sat on the patio and ate lunch consisting (again) of cheese and meat sandwiches prepared at Nes Gard. The weather generally throughout our time in the Sognefjord was mostly sunny and in the high 50s –low 60s. We also spent some time in the museum which has interesting displays about the formation of glaciers and the history and impact of them on the area. We then drove to the parking area by the lake at the base of the Nigardsbreen and tried to climb over big rocks and boulders to the base of this glacier but it was too strenuous for me (I suffer from complete loss of the balance function in my left ear). Instead we sat on one of the boulders listening to the silence around us and, on occasion, greeting a few fit Norwegians who found no challenge on the rocks. Once again we returned to our car not having reached our destination but happy to have been able at least to see the glacier from our immediate vantage point.
We ended our excursion by driving half way up the road north to Styggevatnet to view the dam there but the road became impassable due to deep snow. We returned to Nes Gard driving though beautiful scenery in time for a wonderful dinner of cheese and tomatoes, poached cod in a cream sauce with vegetables, and ice cream in a berry sauce.
Stave churches in the Sognefjord
After dinner we got to speaking to a gentleman guest from Oslo named Walter Olsen who was working on the sound system of a church nearby in Gaupne. He was a lovely, charming fellow who spoke excellent English as did almost everyone we met in Scandinavia. He asked if we would like to visit the church he was working in to see the lovely paintings it contained. We, of course, took him up on his offer and went with him the next morning (Tuesday) to meet the custodian of the church who gave us a tour. Walter had to be on his way but the custodian offered to take us to another church in the area not yet open for public tours---one of the famous stave churches that dates from 1647 and contains interior painted panels from the 12th century. The church was built on clay and has settled unevenly through the centuries so the floors slope quite a bit. Our guide showed us a pew that belonged to his ancestors; most Norwegians can trace their family history back hundreds of years. We felt very lucky to have had the chance to enter this church and offered our guide our card so he could contact us if he ever came to the environs of NYC.
We then drove south on Route 55 to Hella where we just made the ferry over to Dragsvik and on to Vik where we walked around the grounds of the famous Hopperstad Stave Church that dates from the early 1200s and the Hove Stone Church that dates from 1170. It was too early in the year for either church to be open to the public. At the suggestion of our Nes Gard host we took Route 13 south from the lush fertile valley of Vik to the top of the mountains---snow covered, windy, and looking really desolate like Mars or the moon. We sat in the car and ate---you guessed it---cheese and meat sandwiches from Nes Gard and then went back down to Vik descending into the lush valley again to view the very large statue of the Viking presented to Norway by the German Kaiser Wilhelm in 1913.
We hurried to catch the ferry back to Hella but missed the 4:00 ferry at Solvorn which would get us across the fjord to the stave church at Urnes, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Disappointed because the church tours end at 5:30, we stopped in a café to have some cappuccino and bemoan our situation. The hostess there was extremely helpful to us by calling to find out if we could still get a tour if we made the 4:50 ferry across. The answer was yes and we were met at the church by the caretaker, a lovely woman who gave us a tour for 60 kronas. After making our only “tourist” purchase in Norway (because everything is so expensive) of a postcard that shows the beautifully carved panels on the outside of the church we left and made the last ferry back to Solvorn which is a lovely little village worth more than just the quick walk we had time to give it. We made it back to Nes Gard at 6:55, just in time for our last dinner there. We marveled at the way everyone we met was helpful and friendly. We wondered if maybe it was because the tourist season had not yet started and so they were not yet sick of tourists but then we both agreed it was just the nature of the Norwegian people.
The National Tourist Route---The Sognefjellsvegen
We sadly left Nes Gard around 10:00 a.m. on Wednesday to make the trip back to the Volvo factory in Gothenberg, Sweden by Friday May 13 to return our car for shipment to the U.S. But first we had the much anticipated drive on the Sognefjellsvegen which is the road between Luster (just north of Nes Gard) and Lom to look forward to. It took us until 5:00 to arrive at Lillehammer where we stayed for the night on the way to Oslo because we stopped so often to take in the views and because the road is so narrow in places and full of S-curves which Jeff was used to but still consumed a long time to negotiate.
From Nes Gard the road goes north following the Lusterfjord and has the now familiar yet still stunning, lush fjord scenery. The fjord ends at Skjolden and a little past this spot we saw a beautiful waterfall on our right and a spot on our left where we parked and took advantage of one of the walking trails offered. We found ourselves in beautiful fields flanking a river with the waterfall always in sight. When returning to the car we met two tractors--- one of the drivers was accompanied by two little boys---a farmer perhaps with his sons---taking what looked like bags of fertilizer into the fields.
Past a little village called Fortun the road started a climb that ended at a height of 4590 feet or 1400 meters. Once again we were way above the tree line and it looked as if we were on Mars or the moon. At every S- turn the viewpoints of the deeply snow- covered mountains changed. The snow on either side of the road was as high as the car and because it had been warm and sunny the last few days we figured lots of snow had already melted. Near the top was a lovely hotel called Hotel Turtagro--- open all year for hiking and cross country skiing. We stopped there for coffee and delicious apple cake that we enjoyed on the patio looking at the mountains. Further along we stopped at a pull- off and had the one and only viewing during our trip of wild mountain goats. We also saw at least three hawks soaring around ---one with some kind of kill in his mouth. At another pull- off we stopped to have our packed lunch from Nes Gard and then started the descent, passing yet another fabulous waterfall, actually a double one. Every time we had stopped to get out of the car and take in the scenery of the valleys below us and the mountains surrounding us all you could hear were the birds and the sounds of the waterfalls. At the highest points there was just silence and if we encountered 10 cars all along the route it was a lot. I imagine during the summer many more cars are travelling along this road which would make the going much slower. Both Jeff and I agreed we have never been on a more beautiful drive.
We reached Lom mid afternoon and stopped to visit the Stave church there. It was officially closed but a tour group had just been there and the typically friendly church guide allowed us to go into the church and gave us our own tour. At Lom we picked up Route 15 and stopped at the town of Otta for coffee and ice cream and then got on to Route 6 to travel all the way to Lillehammer, Oslo, and eventually Gothenberg, Sweden. We were out of the Sognefjord area but we had just been on one of the most memorable vacations we had ever experienced and seen some of the most indescribably beautiful scenery one could imagine.
Oslo to Flam
We picked up our new Volvo in Gothenberg, Sweden on Monday, May 2, 2011 and drove to Copenhagen on Tuesday where we spent three days before boarding the DFDS ferry on Friday to Oslo, the first leg of our journey to the Sognefjord. We had made reservations and booked a cabin about a month before for the overnight trip to Oslo. The ferry was really a cruise ship and we enjoyed the experience. We arrived in Oslo at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday quite rested and full from an excellent buffet breakfast and headed out immediately for the Sognefjord area and our first stop-over in Flam.
The Sognefjord is the longest and deepest fjord in the western part of Norway and has many arms we were hoping to explore in the limited time we had. My husband Jeff did all the driving and let me say here he is a wiz at reading maps and navigating the roads. Somehow, though there was construction all around the ferry port he was able to get us on the E16 ---a major highway that leads to the western part of Norway. I had read that it would take about 4-5 hours to get to Flam, but we didn’t arrive until around 6:00 Saturday evening. Even though E16 is a major highway, most of it is two lanes, curvy, and has speed limits that vary from 45 to an occasional 70 mph. We also stopped often to take photos.
The scenery out of Oslo is pretty ----forests with big expanses of water on either side --- some of which are parts of the fjords around Oslo. After we stopped at the outskirts of a little village called Bagn to eat a lunch of cheese sandwiches we had bought on the ferry we started to drive higher into the mountains and the scenery became more and more wonderful especially after we passed the town of Fagernes.We were surrounded by the very high, steep, and dramatic mountains of the fjords with very green valleys on either side of the waters where fields of apple trees were just beginning to bloom. And all along the way are well-kept farm houses or cabins with trim painted in contrasting colors. This is an agricultural area (as is all of Norway outside the few cities) and when we got out of the car most times there was a good, earthy smell of cow manure that was spread on the fields. The buildings are not only in the villages in the valleys but many are also situated on very high remote spots on the mountains and we couldn’t help wondering how the inhabitants get up there, especially in winter. We found out later that in many instances they walk and bring their supplies in by sled. These Norwegians are very hearty people! The mountains and the valleys and all they hold were reflected in the waters of the fjords which were very still that day so our eyes were filled with a double image. At some point we climbed even higher to the top of the mountains above the tree line and found ourselves in snow covered moon-like surroundings. Here again are cabins and houses but we hardly saw another car or any people. Descending back down into lower lands we passed through the lovely little village of Laerdal and then had to drive through the world’s longest tunnel into Flam, not because we wanted to but because the “old” and very scenic road I had read about over the mountains was closed and impassable due to snow. We were disappointed about this but came to realize later that the road we had just travelled on and those we would find ourselves on in the next days are surely just as gloriously varied and scenic.
Flam
Most of what I had read about Flam is that it is just a spot with a few hotels, souvenir shops, and the place to get on the famous tourist ferry and train. That is all true but it’s also in a beautiful valley at the head of the Aurlandsfjord surrounded by high mountain walls. There are some nice walks we would have taken around the area if we had booked more than one night’s stay at the Flamsbrygga Hotel. Our accommodation was just fine and included a very good breakfast buffet. The friendly young woman at the desk worked out a schedule for us to follow the next day that would allow us to see all the sights we had heard about and still get to our next lodging on Sunday night by 7:00. She even looked up and translated the directions for driving to that lodging.
On Sunday morning right after breakfast we walked from the hotel lobby to the pier where we bought tickets and boarded the 9:00 ferry for Gudvangen, another small village at the head of the Naeroyfjord (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) which is an arm of the Sognefjord . The two hour tour takes you through the most beautiful scenery you can imagine. I can’t find the words to properly convey the sheer immensity of the steep rock walls dotted with literally at least a hundred waterfalls of varying intensity, the greenness of the valley, and the quaintness of the neat, painted villages and houses all along the route. We could have stayed on the boat for the trip back to Flam but we wanted to make the 12:20 Flam railroad tour so when we got off the ferry around 11:00 at Gudvangen and walked from the pier about 300 meters up to the main road and caught the bus to Flam at 11:28.
We had time to eat a quick lunch (this time cheese sandwiches we had made for ourselves from the Flamsbrygga’s breakfast buffet) before we boarded the Flam train for an hour’s ascent up to Myrdal high on the top of the mountains and the descent back down to Flam. The train was almost empty so we could jump from one side of the aisle to the other to see the constantly changing views of the very green valleys way below us which were breathtaking. It was wonderful to experience the fjords from high up in the mountains on the train as well as at sea level on the ferry.
Before getting into our car back in Flam at about 2:30 on Sunday Jeff went into the Flamsbrygga to thank the receptionist at the desk for her flawless plans and then we were off for, despite the truly awesome scenery we had already experienced, what was to be the most memorable part of our trip.
Nes Gard
Our destination was a B&B called Nes Gard ( I had learned about it though a contributor to TripAdvisor who has a wonderful website called onelittleworld.com).
From Flam we had to go back through the long tunnel on E16, get onto Route 5 and board the Fodnes-Mannheller ferry to eventually get to Route 55 on the west side of the Lusterfjord, another arm of the Sognefjord. Nes Gard is located right on Route 55 in the village of Nes. We arrived around 6:00 in time to make the 7:00 dinner offered at an additional charge for the bed with breakfast and more than well worth it. When our host showed us around the place and where we would sleep I thought I had reached paradise.
Nes Gard is an old farm house with auxiliary buildings and barns surrounded by fields full of ewes and their lambs that run and jump up in the air on all fours for the joy of it. Across the road is a lovely church and grave yard ( oldest date of birth on one of the stones is 1770) and four rams roam in the field next to the church. Beyond the backyard of the church is the water of the Lusterfjord and its mountains on the other side with the wonderful Feigumfossen waterfall cascading down into the valley. The spray from this waterfall the next day provided us with an hour long rainbow.
We had arrived at Nes Gard just as a confirmation party was in full swing and many of the guests wore the traditional costumes of Norway which our host said was the usual mode of dress for special occasions. We were offered coffee and cake and then, because of the party, instead of eating in the dining room we were served a dinner of diced melon and ham, smoked pork with vegetables, and flan on our porch where we could watch the lambs if we looked to our left or view the church and the waterfall in the mountains behind if we looked to our right.
Meandering around the glaciers areas of the Lusterfjord
Our host was an expert on the area and helped us plan our excursions for the next two days. On Monday we took route 55 to 604 to the Bergsetbreen area. (Breen means glacier.) We had planned to park the car and walk along a trail for about an hour to get a close view of the glacier but the trail was covered with snow. Still we decided to proceed with the help of the walking sticks we had brought along and certainly needed even though we were able only to follow the footsteps in the snow of someone who had previously been there. After about 45 minutes we lost sight of the footsteps and wound up in a bog area so we returned to our car but we both felt good about the walk because we were, once again, surrounded by beautiful, stark, steep, immense mountains.
We drove to the Norwegian Glacier Museum and Jostedalen Glacier Visitors Center nearby where we sat on the patio and ate lunch consisting (again) of cheese and meat sandwiches prepared at Nes Gard. The weather generally throughout our time in the Sognefjord was mostly sunny and in the high 50s –low 60s. We also spent some time in the museum which has interesting displays about the formation of glaciers and the history and impact of them on the area. We then drove to the parking area by the lake at the base of the Nigardsbreen and tried to climb over big rocks and boulders to the base of this glacier but it was too strenuous for me (I suffer from complete loss of the balance function in my left ear). Instead we sat on one of the boulders listening to the silence around us and, on occasion, greeting a few fit Norwegians who found no challenge on the rocks. Once again we returned to our car not having reached our destination but happy to have been able at least to see the glacier from our immediate vantage point.
We ended our excursion by driving half way up the road north to Styggevatnet to view the dam there but the road became impassable due to deep snow. We returned to Nes Gard driving though beautiful scenery in time for a wonderful dinner of cheese and tomatoes, poached cod in a cream sauce with vegetables, and ice cream in a berry sauce.
Stave churches in the Sognefjord
After dinner we got to speaking to a gentleman guest from Oslo named Walter Olsen who was working on the sound system of a church nearby in Gaupne. He was a lovely, charming fellow who spoke excellent English as did almost everyone we met in Scandinavia. He asked if we would like to visit the church he was working in to see the lovely paintings it contained. We, of course, took him up on his offer and went with him the next morning (Tuesday) to meet the custodian of the church who gave us a tour. Walter had to be on his way but the custodian offered to take us to another church in the area not yet open for public tours---one of the famous stave churches that dates from 1647 and contains interior painted panels from the 12th century. The church was built on clay and has settled unevenly through the centuries so the floors slope quite a bit. Our guide showed us a pew that belonged to his ancestors; most Norwegians can trace their family history back hundreds of years. We felt very lucky to have had the chance to enter this church and offered our guide our card so he could contact us if he ever came to the environs of NYC.
We then drove south on Route 55 to Hella where we just made the ferry over to Dragsvik and on to Vik where we walked around the grounds of the famous Hopperstad Stave Church that dates from the early 1200s and the Hove Stone Church that dates from 1170. It was too early in the year for either church to be open to the public. At the suggestion of our Nes Gard host we took Route 13 south from the lush fertile valley of Vik to the top of the mountains---snow covered, windy, and looking really desolate like Mars or the moon. We sat in the car and ate---you guessed it---cheese and meat sandwiches from Nes Gard and then went back down to Vik descending into the lush valley again to view the very large statue of the Viking presented to Norway by the German Kaiser Wilhelm in 1913.
We hurried to catch the ferry back to Hella but missed the 4:00 ferry at Solvorn which would get us across the fjord to the stave church at Urnes, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Disappointed because the church tours end at 5:30, we stopped in a café to have some cappuccino and bemoan our situation. The hostess there was extremely helpful to us by calling to find out if we could still get a tour if we made the 4:50 ferry across. The answer was yes and we were met at the church by the caretaker, a lovely woman who gave us a tour for 60 kronas. After making our only “tourist” purchase in Norway (because everything is so expensive) of a postcard that shows the beautifully carved panels on the outside of the church we left and made the last ferry back to Solvorn which is a lovely little village worth more than just the quick walk we had time to give it. We made it back to Nes Gard at 6:55, just in time for our last dinner there. We marveled at the way everyone we met was helpful and friendly. We wondered if maybe it was because the tourist season had not yet started and so they were not yet sick of tourists but then we both agreed it was just the nature of the Norwegian people.
The National Tourist Route---The Sognefjellsvegen
We sadly left Nes Gard around 10:00 a.m. on Wednesday to make the trip back to the Volvo factory in Gothenberg, Sweden by Friday May 13 to return our car for shipment to the U.S. But first we had the much anticipated drive on the Sognefjellsvegen which is the road between Luster (just north of Nes Gard) and Lom to look forward to. It took us until 5:00 to arrive at Lillehammer where we stayed for the night on the way to Oslo because we stopped so often to take in the views and because the road is so narrow in places and full of S-curves which Jeff was used to but still consumed a long time to negotiate.
From Nes Gard the road goes north following the Lusterfjord and has the now familiar yet still stunning, lush fjord scenery. The fjord ends at Skjolden and a little past this spot we saw a beautiful waterfall on our right and a spot on our left where we parked and took advantage of one of the walking trails offered. We found ourselves in beautiful fields flanking a river with the waterfall always in sight. When returning to the car we met two tractors--- one of the drivers was accompanied by two little boys---a farmer perhaps with his sons---taking what looked like bags of fertilizer into the fields.
Past a little village called Fortun the road started a climb that ended at a height of 4590 feet or 1400 meters. Once again we were way above the tree line and it looked as if we were on Mars or the moon. At every S- turn the viewpoints of the deeply snow- covered mountains changed. The snow on either side of the road was as high as the car and because it had been warm and sunny the last few days we figured lots of snow had already melted. Near the top was a lovely hotel called Hotel Turtagro--- open all year for hiking and cross country skiing. We stopped there for coffee and delicious apple cake that we enjoyed on the patio looking at the mountains. Further along we stopped at a pull- off and had the one and only viewing during our trip of wild mountain goats. We also saw at least three hawks soaring around ---one with some kind of kill in his mouth. At another pull- off we stopped to have our packed lunch from Nes Gard and then started the descent, passing yet another fabulous waterfall, actually a double one. Every time we had stopped to get out of the car and take in the scenery of the valleys below us and the mountains surrounding us all you could hear were the birds and the sounds of the waterfalls. At the highest points there was just silence and if we encountered 10 cars all along the route it was a lot. I imagine during the summer many more cars are travelling along this road which would make the going much slower. Both Jeff and I agreed we have never been on a more beautiful drive.
We reached Lom mid afternoon and stopped to visit the Stave church there. It was officially closed but a tour group had just been there and the typically friendly church guide allowed us to go into the church and gave us our own tour. At Lom we picked up Route 15 and stopped at the town of Otta for coffee and ice cream and then got on to Route 6 to travel all the way to Lillehammer, Oslo, and eventually Gothenberg, Sweden. We were out of the Sognefjord area but we had just been on one of the most memorable vacations we had ever experienced and seen some of the most indescribably beautiful scenery one could imagine.
Written May 20, 2011
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Rrishee
Stockholm, Sweden3 contributions
Jul 2013 • Family
The Sognefjord journey from Bergen to Flam on a fast boat from Norled was a spectacular experience. The boat is fast and the journey between very high rise mountains with water falls and rich and varying scenery on both the sides was very picturesque. Standing on the fast moving boat deck with strong cold wind in your face and taking picture of clouds descending from the mountains, lush green vegetation, approach into narrow Sognefjord and that rich white foam trail of water which boat leaves behind all added to the experience. Stops on the way to Flam which were small hilly towns with beautiful and colorful old houses were a perk on that beautiful journey.
From Flam we took the famous Flam railway for one hour journey from Flam to Myrdel , which again is a very scenic train journey which travels close to beautiful ravines through which rivers with clear transparent water pass, beautiful waterfalls with one specifically breath taking one where the train stops for about 5 minutes for you to take pictures and generally a very beautiful scenery on both the sides. Trains are old and historic but at the same time, very well engineered to maneuver through a lot of turns and a 55 degree gradient all throughout!
From Myrdel we took another train to Oslo which is a usual European train journey but the snow capped mountains on either sides made that one quite a great experience as well. A compartment with a small play area for kids added to the comfort, so we could relax and click pictures while kids played away in their area which also had cartoon films playing on a TV.
We booked the journey separately (as in not as a package tour) and overall saved about 40% as compared to if we had booked as a package. Reference site URLs we used are below.
Highly recommended if you are traveling to that region!
From Flam we took the famous Flam railway for one hour journey from Flam to Myrdel , which again is a very scenic train journey which travels close to beautiful ravines through which rivers with clear transparent water pass, beautiful waterfalls with one specifically breath taking one where the train stops for about 5 minutes for you to take pictures and generally a very beautiful scenery on both the sides. Trains are old and historic but at the same time, very well engineered to maneuver through a lot of turns and a 55 degree gradient all throughout!
From Myrdel we took another train to Oslo which is a usual European train journey but the snow capped mountains on either sides made that one quite a great experience as well. A compartment with a small play area for kids added to the comfort, so we could relax and click pictures while kids played away in their area which also had cartoon films playing on a TV.
We booked the journey separately (as in not as a package tour) and overall saved about 40% as compared to if we had booked as a package. Reference site URLs we used are below.
Highly recommended if you are traveling to that region!
Written July 14, 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Mark Jordan
Barcelona, Spain1,229 contributions
Apr 2019
We took the ferry from Gudvangen to Flam via the Sogne Fjord and the scenery was breathtaking.
Incredible waterways flanked by mountains which, until you see another ferry to put them into perspective seem quite normal, when in fact they are pretty huge!
Still, calm water and a pleasant couple of hours cruising around a beautiful part of a beautiful country
Incredible waterways flanked by mountains which, until you see another ferry to put them into perspective seem quite normal, when in fact they are pretty huge!
Still, calm water and a pleasant couple of hours cruising around a beautiful part of a beautiful country
Written March 22, 2020
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
longhaulfromlondon
Teddington, UK401 contributions
Sep 2014 • Couples
I took a five and a half hour boat trip from Bergen to Flam to see Sognefjord. I took a book along because I thought there might be an opportunity to read for some of the time and never opened it. From leaving Bergen the scenery was absolutely spectacular and I never stopped watching it, ever changing, ever beautiful and dramatic. I will return to Bergen in a different season just to see all of this again. I had a whole different understanding of the idea that the land and water can have 'moods' after this trip.
Written September 21, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Stathis75
Heraklion, Greece154 contributions
Sep 2014 • Family
This is one of the most beautiful travel experiences of my life. Even though Norway is considered by many tourists as a country to skip due to expensive stay and food, the trip from Oslo to Bergen with the fjordtours which is called Sognefjord in a nutshell is really amazing, relaxing and worth every signle penny you spend! Try to avoid September (it may not be sunny!) and go in July! It will be a little crowded but you'll definately gonna enjoy it! Every single minute from the train from Oslo to Myrdal, the old train from Myrdal to Flam and especially the nutshell (boat) from Flam to Bergen is spectacular!
Written September 16, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
DHook
San Jose, CA560 contributions
Aug 2014 • Couples
We did our own Norway In A Nutshell tour, by booking the Oslo-Bergen Train, the Myrdal-Flam Train, the Flam-Balestrand express boat, and then the Balestrand-Bergen express boat after two nights in Balestrand.
This enabled us to do the Aurlandsfjord and the Sognefjord.
The boat trip through the fjord was the high point of our whole trip. Astounding. You will take a lot of photos. Waterfalls, cliffs, etc - wow!!!
There are a number of other options on how to tour the fjords, most of which are less work but may not offer some features. We did this because we wanted to spend some time in a small town on the fjord (Balestrand) where we knew no cruise ships would dock.
This enabled us to do the Aurlandsfjord and the Sognefjord.
The boat trip through the fjord was the high point of our whole trip. Astounding. You will take a lot of photos. Waterfalls, cliffs, etc - wow!!!
There are a number of other options on how to tour the fjords, most of which are less work but may not offer some features. We did this because we wanted to spend some time in a small town on the fjord (Balestrand) where we knew no cruise ships would dock.
Written September 4, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
adityahalan
Mumbai, India24 contributions
Aug 2015 • Couples
We took the express boat enroute Bergen. From the multiple options of various ferry rides, I think this is the best and most worth and keep the day fully utilized.
We took train from OSLO to Flam.. a must visit in Norway.. one of the most scenic journey in the world... and then from Flam we took the speed boat to Bergen.
We took train from OSLO to Flam.. a must visit in Norway.. one of the most scenic journey in the world... and then from Flam we took the speed boat to Bergen.
Written November 15, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Reconnoiterer
Sydney, Australia260 contributions
May 2015 • Solo
As part of my "Norway in a Nutshell" self-guided trip, I caught a boat from Flam to Gudvangen. A waiting bus then takes passengers to Voss to catch the train to Bergen.
The trip along the fjord left Flam at 3:10pm [15:10] and took a little over 2 hours. It included Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord and made stops along the way at settlements and at areas of particular beauty. The scenery is fantastic and it is amazing to see isolated houses perched on the edge of the fjord and wonder at their history.
Try and sit outside for maximum impact, but be sure to take warm clothing including scarves and gloves. Many people were driven inside by the cold. Refreshments are available, but inside was too crowded for me and I was there to look at the fjords and mountains and take photographs.
The trip along the fjord left Flam at 3:10pm [15:10] and took a little over 2 hours. It included Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord and made stops along the way at settlements and at areas of particular beauty. The scenery is fantastic and it is amazing to see isolated houses perched on the edge of the fjord and wonder at their history.
Try and sit outside for maximum impact, but be sure to take warm clothing including scarves and gloves. Many people were driven inside by the cold. Refreshments are available, but inside was too crowded for me and I was there to look at the fjords and mountains and take photographs.
Written June 22, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
SuefromCarlisle
Carlisle, UK243 contributions
May 2015 • Couples
The trip from Bergen to Flam takes about 5 hours by catamaran boat. This is an amazing trip and I would certainly recommend it to all. the boat arrives in Flam in time to give you an hour before taking the little train up the mountain to Myrdal and then connect with the main line back to Bergen.
Highly recommended - book via the visit Bergen website.
Highly recommended - book via the visit Bergen website.
Written May 28, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Dickd1946
Charleston, SC1,220 contributions
Sep 2014 • Couples
This was A Total Relished Surprise ! Maneuvering through the waterways of this fjord was breathtaking and a sight to behold. The magnificence of this natural Beauty is not to be missed if you are anywhere nearby.
Written January 25, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Hi Ian (or anyone who has the answers I need). I am confused... Help! Is there a car ferry that goes from Flam to Bergen on the Sognefjord? If so, what's the website? Thank you so much! Nikki
Written November 8, 2019
Currently there is just the 1 ferry company operating this ferry service, Norled. The crossing operates up to 7 times each week with sailing durations from around 5 hours 15 minutes.
Flåm Bergen sailing durations and frequency may vary from season to season so we’d advise doing a live check to get the most up to date information. Go online to check the Norled Ferry dates and times.
Written November 13, 2019
Zdravstvujte, podskazhite otkuda othodit kiorablik?
Hello, please advice from what place the ferry starting? Is it roundtrip by ferry?
Written September 3, 2019
Scusami è possibile imbarcare l'auto da Flam?
Written February 1, 2019
ciao posso chiederti info per la norvegia?, io arrivo ad oslo e dovrei andare a bergen per il Sognefjord o ci sono tour appositi? fine ottobre
Written September 23, 2018
Ciao, allora non saprei dirti se ci sono dei tour che partono da Oslo, perché noi avevamo affittato la macchina, e ci siamo spostati in vari posti compreso Bergen. Non so se partono delle mini crociere proprio da Oslo. Altrimenti potresti affittare una macchina per gli spostamenti. Mi dispiace non poterti dare questa informazione. Ma ti assicuro che rimarrai a bocca aperta dalla bellezza della natura norvegese. Buone vacanze.
Written September 23, 2018
Camsouille25
Besancon, France
Bonjour Maud,
J'ai cru comprendre que vous aviez pris le ferry depuis Bergen qui rejoint Flåm, et je voulais savoir si l'on pouvait y charger une voiture ? Car je suis le nez dans le Routard et l'express qui y est indiqué ne prend pas les voitures... j'espère que vlis pourrez m'éclairer :)
Bonne journée à vous
Written August 6, 2018
A Tripadvisor member
Rome, Italy
4 contributions
Salve, in agosto 2018 sarò a Bergen.
Vorrei fare un crociera giornaliera per Sognefjord. Come si prenota? posso fare prenotazione anche il giorno prima al Tourist Information di Bergen? o dove? da dove parte la nave? grazie mille
Written February 12, 2018
Beste,
Van waaruit namen jullie deze boot om 200km richting aurlandsfjord te varen? We zouden graag dezelfde tocht doen.
Dankjewel
Written February 8, 2018
Ciao a tutti .... questa estate sarò in Norvegia col camper... per fare il giro in battello quale e' consigliato? La tratta gudvangen flam oppure gudvangen kaupanger? Si può caricare il camper? Grazie mille a chi vorrà esserci d'aiuto.... ( anche il prezzo eventualmente )
Written December 28, 2017
pamelas7423
Hudson, Ohio
I use portable oxygen. Will I have any high altitude breathing problem?
Written October 4, 2017
da bergen ci sono piccole crociere che arrivano al sognefjord e tornano in giornata? si possono prenotare oppure non c'e' bisogno calcolando però che vado ad agosto?
Written May 18, 2017
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