I can't say enough about our food tour with Ester. The weather wasn't ideal when we went but we figured we'd be in and out of places to warm up and it worked out that way. Ester was, in a single word, WONDERFUL. She provided anecdotes, personal experiences, history and suggestions for so many different aspects of Icelandic life. I take a walking or food tour whenever I travel, and I have never been guided through the grocery store. That may not seem a big deal for some people, but local stores are something that intrigue me as it's a view into the food culture of a place in a way. Ester pointed out things you wouldn't otherwise notice and our stops on the tour were tucked away spots with absolutely delicious food. You do try the fermented shark, but if you follow Ester's tips for doing so you'll be fine. You get an overall lay of the land in downtown Reykjavik, which is always a plus.