12th Arrondissement
12th Arrondissement
4
About
Situated on the right bank of the River Seine, the district has been significantly reorganized in recent decades, especially in the areas of Cour Saint-Émilion and Bercy, which now contain the French Ministry of Finances and the Bercy arena. The 12th arrondissement contains the Opéra de la Bastille, the second largest opera house in Paris. It was inaugurated in 1989, on the 200th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille. The Bois de Vincennes is also located in this arrondissement.
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Neighborhood: Bois de Vincennes
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Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.
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Tucson, AZ11,708 contributions
Mar 2016 • Solo
The 12th Arrondissement, one of the 20 Paris administrative districts, covers about 6.3 square miles on the Right Bank. About two-thirds of the area, however, is filled by the huge Bois de Vincennes on the eastern side of both the Arrondissement and Paris. I sometimes go to this lovely park to stroll or to simply relax away from the maddening crowds in tourist central. One of my favorite stops in the park is the fairly recently renovated zoo. It is a great place to go when traveling with children. I find the zoo's myriad giraffes to be especially endearing.
Attractions on the western end of the Arrondissement include Place de la Bastille, where the French Revolution began. This square marks the site where the stormed prison formerly stood, but the July Column that stands there now actually commemorates the Revolution of 1830.
Modern Opera Bastille looms across the street from the square and brings me to the 12th Arrondissement on many of my Paris visits. I come to enjoy wonderful opera productions, made even more enjoyable by the building's excellent acoustics and stage views, far better than what I've experienced at the iconic Opera Garnier.
The Promenade Plantee, also known as Coulee verte, starts behind Opera Bastille and runs for about 3 miles. A large portion of this walkway with its trees, plants, bushes and flowers, replaces a former elevated train track and gives the walker an interesting perspective of surrounding neighborhoods. Whenever I've ambled here -- generally early in the morning -- there have been only a few others around.
Bercy Village, close to Bercy Park, offers a different type of shopping center with its stores replacing old wine warehouses. Nearby Musee des Arts Forains also uses such warehouse space on a grand scale to display a collection of fairground, theatre and music-hall objects, accessible only by registering in advance for a tour. I find this museum to be one of the most unusual in Paris. It even gives visitors the opportunity to ride on antique carousels.
For architecture buffs, the 12th's Gare de Lyon, one of the busiest train stations in Europe, displays Belle Epoque elements on its facade. But I find Le Train Bleu restaurant inside on the first floor to be more striking. Colorful paintings appear on the ceilings and walls, and every detail throughout the rooms, including coat racks, feature Belle Epoque. The restaurant is pricey, but staff has always allowed me to take a quick look around without staying to dine or to order a drink.
Part of the 12th's appeal for me is that it offers many worthwhile activities, including the busy Marche d'Aligre (Tuesday-Sunday), for those who have been to Paris before and have covered the city's must-sees. I think it is easy to spend at least two days in this Arrondissement and to discover places that will continue to beckon on additional visits to the city.
Attractions on the western end of the Arrondissement include Place de la Bastille, where the French Revolution began. This square marks the site where the stormed prison formerly stood, but the July Column that stands there now actually commemorates the Revolution of 1830.
Modern Opera Bastille looms across the street from the square and brings me to the 12th Arrondissement on many of my Paris visits. I come to enjoy wonderful opera productions, made even more enjoyable by the building's excellent acoustics and stage views, far better than what I've experienced at the iconic Opera Garnier.
The Promenade Plantee, also known as Coulee verte, starts behind Opera Bastille and runs for about 3 miles. A large portion of this walkway with its trees, plants, bushes and flowers, replaces a former elevated train track and gives the walker an interesting perspective of surrounding neighborhoods. Whenever I've ambled here -- generally early in the morning -- there have been only a few others around.
Bercy Village, close to Bercy Park, offers a different type of shopping center with its stores replacing old wine warehouses. Nearby Musee des Arts Forains also uses such warehouse space on a grand scale to display a collection of fairground, theatre and music-hall objects, accessible only by registering in advance for a tour. I find this museum to be one of the most unusual in Paris. It even gives visitors the opportunity to ride on antique carousels.
For architecture buffs, the 12th's Gare de Lyon, one of the busiest train stations in Europe, displays Belle Epoque elements on its facade. But I find Le Train Bleu restaurant inside on the first floor to be more striking. Colorful paintings appear on the ceilings and walls, and every detail throughout the rooms, including coat racks, feature Belle Epoque. The restaurant is pricey, but staff has always allowed me to take a quick look around without staying to dine or to order a drink.
Part of the 12th's appeal for me is that it offers many worthwhile activities, including the busy Marche d'Aligre (Tuesday-Sunday), for those who have been to Paris before and have covered the city's must-sees. I think it is easy to spend at least two days in this Arrondissement and to discover places that will continue to beckon on additional visits to the city.
Written May 8, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
mrsagf
washington dc845 contributions
May 2014 • Friends
While tourist Paris has been hopping, the 12e. ("Reuilly") has been quietly revitalizing and evolving over the last 25 years into a safe, peaceful, non-touristy middle/upper middle class bo-bo (both bohemian and bourgeois) mixed use residential and business district. It has its fair share of Haussmann style buildings and boulevards, as well as upgraded working class properties, ancient piles, modern architecture and rehabilitated refinement. It came to my attention when a credible Parisian blogger said that she always referred family and friends to the 12e. for places to stay.
Just look at the map. The 12e. is along the Right Bank of the Seine, on the eastern side of Paris. It is 20-30 minutes by metro from tourist Paris--but so are many sights, no matter where you stay. It is still considered central Paris, but here you get the advantages of a less frantic pace, when you want to enjoy time out and escape the hordes. You also get a glimpse authentic Paris, where real Parisians live and work.
Bercy Village is centered around a Mitterand project of the 90's, adaptive reuse of stone warehouses along the Seine that were once important in the wine trade and are now stores and restaurants. Bo-bos mix with tourists there. Also there: new hotels, offices, the Musee des Arts Forains, and the Cinematheque Francaise Film Center in a building designed by Frank Gehry. The Parc de Bercy (Jardin Yitzhak Rabin is a highlight) leads to the Bercy Sportsplex, which also serves as a concert venue.
The Bel Air quarter east of Place de la Nation is mainly residential, with the independently owned shops, small businesses, hotels and restaurants/cafes you expect of Parisian neighborhoods. A top-ten open air market on the Cours de Vincennes during the market season and at Christmas. A branch of the Printemps dept. store on the 20e. side of the Cours de Vincennes. Le Palais de la Porte Doree, an Art Deco building housing the Immigration Museum and an aquarium.
Place de Bastille, shared by the 4e. and the 11e., and the Opera Bastille. The Promenade Plantee, an abandoned railway right of way now a landscaped walkway stretching 4 miles from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes (and serving as the inspiration for the NYC High Line). A gateway into the Bois de Vincennes, three times the size of Central Park, a "lung" of Paris.
The Marche d'Aligre, a top-ten open air market, and the adjacent covered Marche Beauvau. Many good but affordable restaurants in the Ledrun-Rollin area and elsewhere in the 12e. The Gare de Lyon and its decorative Blue Train restaurant.
The 12e. has no huge tourist draw. It is just a pleasant and informed alternative for those who have experienced tourist Paris and are looking for another perspective. I also reviewed Place de la Nation, Hotel du Printemps, Le Picotin, Bistro Paul Bert, Le Cotte Roti, Le Baron Rouge and Le Marche d'Aligre. Au revoir, 12e. We'll be back.
Just look at the map. The 12e. is along the Right Bank of the Seine, on the eastern side of Paris. It is 20-30 minutes by metro from tourist Paris--but so are many sights, no matter where you stay. It is still considered central Paris, but here you get the advantages of a less frantic pace, when you want to enjoy time out and escape the hordes. You also get a glimpse authentic Paris, where real Parisians live and work.
Bercy Village is centered around a Mitterand project of the 90's, adaptive reuse of stone warehouses along the Seine that were once important in the wine trade and are now stores and restaurants. Bo-bos mix with tourists there. Also there: new hotels, offices, the Musee des Arts Forains, and the Cinematheque Francaise Film Center in a building designed by Frank Gehry. The Parc de Bercy (Jardin Yitzhak Rabin is a highlight) leads to the Bercy Sportsplex, which also serves as a concert venue.
The Bel Air quarter east of Place de la Nation is mainly residential, with the independently owned shops, small businesses, hotels and restaurants/cafes you expect of Parisian neighborhoods. A top-ten open air market on the Cours de Vincennes during the market season and at Christmas. A branch of the Printemps dept. store on the 20e. side of the Cours de Vincennes. Le Palais de la Porte Doree, an Art Deco building housing the Immigration Museum and an aquarium.
Place de Bastille, shared by the 4e. and the 11e., and the Opera Bastille. The Promenade Plantee, an abandoned railway right of way now a landscaped walkway stretching 4 miles from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes (and serving as the inspiration for the NYC High Line). A gateway into the Bois de Vincennes, three times the size of Central Park, a "lung" of Paris.
The Marche d'Aligre, a top-ten open air market, and the adjacent covered Marche Beauvau. Many good but affordable restaurants in the Ledrun-Rollin area and elsewhere in the 12e. The Gare de Lyon and its decorative Blue Train restaurant.
The 12e. has no huge tourist draw. It is just a pleasant and informed alternative for those who have experienced tourist Paris and are looking for another perspective. I also reviewed Place de la Nation, Hotel du Printemps, Le Picotin, Bistro Paul Bert, Le Cotte Roti, Le Baron Rouge and Le Marche d'Aligre. Au revoir, 12e. We'll be back.
Written October 4, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
sipivu
Paris, France2,037 contributions
Apr 2015 • Couples
Place and Opera de la Bastille, the Promenade Plantée, the Palais OmniSport de Bercy, the parc de Bercy, the Place de la Nation, the gare de Lyon and the West entrance of the Bois de Vincennes are significant assets of this arrondissement, although it is unknown and lacks the reputation of the Marais, Quarrier Latin or Montmartre in their respective arrondissements.
At night, it is quiet except around the Bastille.
At night, it is quiet except around the Bastille.
Written June 7, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Thomas V
Oakland, CA17,503 contributions
Nov 2016
Best feature of the twelfth is the Promenade Plantee...plus the Viaduct des Arts underneath. And then there's Bercy Park. Not a tourist area, but this is where Parisians live. Lots of parks.
Written April 1, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
mariedesjardins
Prince George, Canada6,921 contributions
Sep 2016 • Solo
We stayed at a 2 floor apartment in the 12th district in Paris in September 2013. Although further from the sights, we really enjoyed our stay here. The metro was 5 minutes from us. The monoprix was near too, maybe 15 minutes. There was the Bois de Vincennes nearby which we visited for a walk. There were also restaurants and shops near our apartment. Had a wonderful time staying in charenton-le-pont.
Written December 29, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Thomas V
Oakland, CA17,503 contributions
May 2018 • Solo
Lots of trains in the 12th. You'll find the Gare D'Lyon and all the tracks leading away from it. And then the Pomenade Plantee, an elevated park built along the tracks of the old railroad from Bastille out to the suburbs. Don't forget the beautiful park in the old wine market, Parc Bercy. And the film museum.
Written August 14, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
JnVSydney
Greater Sydney, Australia21,219 contributions
Oct 2022
A few of the highlights of this area, is Place de la Bastille, the sit of the infamous Fortress Bastille, Rue Cremieux, a colourful street and Paris Gare de Lyon, a huge bustling train station, we also love the shore line of the harbour where Canal Saint meets the Seine.
Written November 20, 2022
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
DAVID L
Los Angeles, CA8,082 contributions
Nov 2014 • Couples
On a casual trip to Paris you'll likely visit the Place de la Bastille and perhaps the new Opera Bastille, but that's just the tip of the iceberg of the 12th. Further on are the apartment homes of the locals, shops, stores and restaurants. Not a big tourist draw and the locale of locals. ...
Written October 21, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Ibadanboy
Nairobi, Kenya5,997 contributions
Jan 2015 • Couples
The 12th Arrondissement is a district on the eastern side of Paris. Home to the Bois de Vincennes, the Opera de la Bastille as well as the Bercy arena stadium. It is worth visiting - not quite on the beaten path.
Written February 8, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Thomas V
Oakland, CA17,503 contributions
Dec 2023 • Couples
You will find the Gare D'Lyon here, as well as the big Bercy Park, and the Promenade Plantee, an elevated linear park. Otherwise it is a residential neighborhood that stretches out to the Peripherique and the Bois de Vincennes.
Written February 21, 2024
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
How easy is it to walk down towards the Seine and towards Notre Dame Island? Merci
Written July 31, 2019
Is the 12th arrondissement a safe place for tourist to stay?
Written January 3, 2019
Hello, yes the 12th arrondissement is a safe place for tourists. It's a family district and quite calm.
Written October 23, 2019
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