The church of Saint Nectaire is a must-see in the Auvergne. It is the second smallest of the Five Great Sanctuaries, but the perfect proportions and stunning setting make it in many ways the most satisfying. In books specializing in Romanesque Auvergne it regularly holds the place of honor on the cover. There is a large parking lot right at the church. But if you have time, hike up from the lower village and drive to the top of Mont Cornadore for the best views. The interior is worth an hour or more to examine the 103 capital faces with classical foliage themes and 22 historiated images: stories of Christ and the namesake saint featuring over 80 sculpted figures. Imagine angels and demons, a fierce rider of the Apocalypse and dramatic scenes of Jesus’ Betrayal, Passion, Resurrection and Last Judgement. Scholars identify three different workshops in the sculpture to include the artisans of Notre-Dame-du-Port in Clermont-Ferrand. Traces of original paint add to your appreciation. For art historians, the original narthex holds particular interest. An 800-year-old statue of the Virgin and Child is especially compelling and reminds us of the dozens of such images in the Auvergne to include many so-called Black Madonna’s. The crypt contains other treasures. The 12th c. Limoges reliquary bust of Saint Baudine, an associate of Nectaire, is striking in his intense gaze and carefully modeled hair and beard. Finally, as with all medieval churches, what to make of the restorations? At Saint Nectaire they seem admirably sensitive. Yes, the stain glass is 19th c, but it is well-crafted. The second level of the bell tower is also an addition of the last century but is historically correct. We know the original was demolished during the French Revolution, which decreed their height all over France proof of the arrogance of the Church. And the towers of the western facade are additions but are true to the Carolingian tradition, adding to the harmony of the profile. For a longer visit to the town, try a spa and get a tasting of the famous St. Nectaire cheese. And just a few miles further is the Chateau of Murol, a place fun for the whole family.

The somewhat drab exterior of this church hides a light and calm interior. Whilst perched majestically on a rocky outcrop the copious amount of tarmac takes the aged feel away from this venerable 12th century building. Subtle interior lighting and some glittering religious artifacts catch the eye. As ever, all notices of interest are in French, so some pre-visit reading is advised. Thirty minutes at most should suffice, then a browse of the small selection of tourist tat in the sprinkling of stalls outside can be washed down with a coffee or something stronger at the nearby restaurant. Parking, I suspect, will be tricky in high season.