Bamenda Ring Road
Bamenda Ring Road
4
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Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as wait time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.
4.0
21 reviews
Excellent
6
Very good
8
Average
5
Poor
0
Terrible
2
goodhikers
Arlington, VA230 contributions
Jan 2012
The Ring Road is a well-known circular driving route starting at Bamenda through Bafut, Wum, Nkambe, Kumbo, and back to Bamenda. It is written up in many guide books as one of the important sites to see in northwest Cameroon.
The northern third of the route is a disappointment and not worth the very difficult, almost impassable driving conditions--I rate it poor. The western third centered on Bafut has some very nice scenery and one magnificent water fall--rated at very good. The eastern third, particularly just south of Kumbo, is also good to very good. I have to rate the entire route as average just because of the disappointing and difficult northern stretch between Lake Nyos and Nkambe.
We drove the entire route in three days in early January--the middle of the dry season, the time recommended by every guide book and local. As it was nearly impassable in several places even in January, I cannot even imagine what it would be like in the rainy season--except potentially disastrous.
Let's get the very bad part out of the way first--the northern most section between infamous Lake Nyos and Nkambe. The road is almost non-existent and what exists requires at the very minimum a 4x4 vehicle with high clearance. There are few directional signs. We used a 1:200000 topo map from 1985 vintage, which helped. Our Toyota RAV4 survived it pretty well, but it lost every plastic protective piece below bumper level.
The "road" -- particularly near the Kimbi Wildlife preserve -- is filled with large boulders, deep gullies, and no alternatives. At one point, we took about an hour to make a driving ramp in a gully with these boulders and then we only made it through by emptying the car and having our teenagers carry the bags about a quarter of a kilometer.
The Kimbi "wildlife preserve" is nearly non-existent, save a few road signs and an unoccupied "headquarters" at the eastern border. It's definitely wild, but with few signs of life.
Had this scenery been spectacular--it probably would have been worth the effort. But it was not. The northern route is simple, nondescript grassland (and in our case, much of it burned out by a prairie fire) that resembles hilly back roads in Texas or Kansas, but without any charm. Even the Cameroonians know this--the area is sparsely settled. If something bad happens to your vehicle, you will have to walk a long way to find help.
But now for the good part: if I had it to do over, I would divide the route into three sections: Bamenda to Lake Nyos, Bamenda to Kumbo (or even to Nkambe) and skip the previously described northern section between Nyos and Nkambe.
You could do the "best of the ring road" this way: between Bamenda and Lake Nyos, visit the interesting Fon's (local chieftans) residence in Bafut--unmarked, so you have to ask the locals for directions. Then take in the spectacular Meecham falls about two-thirds of the way between Bafut and Wum. Again, unmarked, but there is a short path from the road to a small park-like sitting area at geocoords: 6.308623N,10.015755E. Caution: a local tried to charge us for taking pictures of the falls. We shooed him away with abruptness.
At Wum, grab a late lunch in the local market (grilled fish and the like)--there's not much in the way of restaurants--and continue on a very beautiful and pleasant drive through the hill country to Lake Nyos where there is camping under the supervision of the local military (you MUST register with them).
This is the only sleeping alternative barring camping along the side of the road or taking your chances in Wum which had some very basic and somewhat unsavory looking hotels (we chose the best of the lot--the Morning Star, but be warned, it is barely one step above a bordello room).
Lake Nyos is pretty and worth the effort. It has an interesting and infamous history--it proved very deadly in 1988 when it's carbon dioxide soaked water was disrupted by a tremor which sent it's gases pouring over the side like a shaken soda pop bottle. The heavier CO2 gas displaced all the oxygen in the valley below for a few hours and suffocated over 1700 local residents.
The lake is now vented from below, which can be seen from the lake shore. The Cameroonian soldiers we met there were very friendly and took us on a short tour of the area. We were their only visitors in weeks. They very much appreciated our interest in the lake, but even more, our gift of whiskey!
For the remainder of the journey, I would turn around from there head back towards Wum and return to Bamenda on the so-called "short-ring" road which branches off to the south at Weh.
For the second part of the ring: Bamenda to Kumbo (or even to Nkambe), I would brave the pot-holed filled asphalt and deep sand roads to see some gorgeous tea plantations and very nice mountain scenery. This is what we expected to see along the whole route but now know is only visible here on this part of the ring.
You can spend the night in Kumbo at the Ice Breakers or Funo hotels located about a block apart from each other on the north side of town, just off the main road. Both have decent restaurants, albeit slow.
If you don't want to go all the way back to Bamenda, take the road to Foumban and visit another extraordinary Fom residence.
Bottom line: there are sections of the ring road that are very nice, even approaching spectacular, but the whole "Ring" journey is overrated by a long shot and potentially dangerous; simply not worth it even for bragging rights of completing the entire thing. Save your nerves and do the two crescent routes described above. A 4 x 4 vehicle is a must on the northern section, less so for the two crescents. Take extra food and water.
The northern third of the route is a disappointment and not worth the very difficult, almost impassable driving conditions--I rate it poor. The western third centered on Bafut has some very nice scenery and one magnificent water fall--rated at very good. The eastern third, particularly just south of Kumbo, is also good to very good. I have to rate the entire route as average just because of the disappointing and difficult northern stretch between Lake Nyos and Nkambe.
We drove the entire route in three days in early January--the middle of the dry season, the time recommended by every guide book and local. As it was nearly impassable in several places even in January, I cannot even imagine what it would be like in the rainy season--except potentially disastrous.
Let's get the very bad part out of the way first--the northern most section between infamous Lake Nyos and Nkambe. The road is almost non-existent and what exists requires at the very minimum a 4x4 vehicle with high clearance. There are few directional signs. We used a 1:200000 topo map from 1985 vintage, which helped. Our Toyota RAV4 survived it pretty well, but it lost every plastic protective piece below bumper level.
The "road" -- particularly near the Kimbi Wildlife preserve -- is filled with large boulders, deep gullies, and no alternatives. At one point, we took about an hour to make a driving ramp in a gully with these boulders and then we only made it through by emptying the car and having our teenagers carry the bags about a quarter of a kilometer.
The Kimbi "wildlife preserve" is nearly non-existent, save a few road signs and an unoccupied "headquarters" at the eastern border. It's definitely wild, but with few signs of life.
Had this scenery been spectacular--it probably would have been worth the effort. But it was not. The northern route is simple, nondescript grassland (and in our case, much of it burned out by a prairie fire) that resembles hilly back roads in Texas or Kansas, but without any charm. Even the Cameroonians know this--the area is sparsely settled. If something bad happens to your vehicle, you will have to walk a long way to find help.
But now for the good part: if I had it to do over, I would divide the route into three sections: Bamenda to Lake Nyos, Bamenda to Kumbo (or even to Nkambe) and skip the previously described northern section between Nyos and Nkambe.
You could do the "best of the ring road" this way: between Bamenda and Lake Nyos, visit the interesting Fon's (local chieftans) residence in Bafut--unmarked, so you have to ask the locals for directions. Then take in the spectacular Meecham falls about two-thirds of the way between Bafut and Wum. Again, unmarked, but there is a short path from the road to a small park-like sitting area at geocoords: 6.308623N,10.015755E. Caution: a local tried to charge us for taking pictures of the falls. We shooed him away with abruptness.
At Wum, grab a late lunch in the local market (grilled fish and the like)--there's not much in the way of restaurants--and continue on a very beautiful and pleasant drive through the hill country to Lake Nyos where there is camping under the supervision of the local military (you MUST register with them).
This is the only sleeping alternative barring camping along the side of the road or taking your chances in Wum which had some very basic and somewhat unsavory looking hotels (we chose the best of the lot--the Morning Star, but be warned, it is barely one step above a bordello room).
Lake Nyos is pretty and worth the effort. It has an interesting and infamous history--it proved very deadly in 1988 when it's carbon dioxide soaked water was disrupted by a tremor which sent it's gases pouring over the side like a shaken soda pop bottle. The heavier CO2 gas displaced all the oxygen in the valley below for a few hours and suffocated over 1700 local residents.
The lake is now vented from below, which can be seen from the lake shore. The Cameroonian soldiers we met there were very friendly and took us on a short tour of the area. We were their only visitors in weeks. They very much appreciated our interest in the lake, but even more, our gift of whiskey!
For the remainder of the journey, I would turn around from there head back towards Wum and return to Bamenda on the so-called "short-ring" road which branches off to the south at Weh.
For the second part of the ring: Bamenda to Kumbo (or even to Nkambe), I would brave the pot-holed filled asphalt and deep sand roads to see some gorgeous tea plantations and very nice mountain scenery. This is what we expected to see along the whole route but now know is only visible here on this part of the ring.
You can spend the night in Kumbo at the Ice Breakers or Funo hotels located about a block apart from each other on the north side of town, just off the main road. Both have decent restaurants, albeit slow.
If you don't want to go all the way back to Bamenda, take the road to Foumban and visit another extraordinary Fom residence.
Bottom line: there are sections of the ring road that are very nice, even approaching spectacular, but the whole "Ring" journey is overrated by a long shot and potentially dangerous; simply not worth it even for bragging rights of completing the entire thing. Save your nerves and do the two crescent routes described above. A 4 x 4 vehicle is a must on the northern section, less so for the two crescents. Take extra food and water.
Written January 22, 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Laura J
Yaoundé, Centre, Cameroon11 contributions
Apr 2017
The Bamenda Rind Road offers a huge variety of scenery, from farming and fresh produce, waiting for herds of cattle to cross the road, mountains and plains, waterfalls and many interesting modes of transportation and things being transported. The road itself, however, is a challenging experience. It has good pavement in some areas, rough pavement in others and unpaved through some areas. Expect a bumpy ride. Check ahead, because the road might not be passable in places. It's an excellent adventure for hardy travelers!
Written August 9, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Laura J
Yakima, WA35 contributions
Nov 2016 • Couples
In order to really see Cameroon, you have to get out of the big cities. The Ring Road offers a rich variety of sights and sounds, but don't expect a lot of comfort along the way. While there are sections of good pavement, in general you should expect potholes and gravel or dirt roads that may or may not have been maintained. Your travel might be delayed by animals along the road (cows, goats, etc., very limited to no wildlife other than birds), school children, bad road conditions, or the need to buy something from one of the street vendors. Be sure to take your camera, but always ask permission before taking a photo of someone.
Written November 22, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
bedasj
Woerden, The Netherlands8 contributions
Feb 2013 • Couples
Bamenda to Nkambe road is OK and is being worked on to improve. Nice views along the road and vast tea plantations. In Nkambe a visit to the chefferie is worthwhile. From Nkambe drive partly on very bad non existing roads. You have to drive along river beds! Lake Nyos interesting. The Lake is military area and you need to get permission to visit at the military post. The military is very nice and welcoming though and happy to have some diversion from their daily task. From Lake Nyos you can take the "Small Ring Road to Fundong or drive on to Wum. Beautiful views and many waterfalls. If you like nature and a trip o the rough side, this trip is certainly recommendable but in dry season only (December to May)! In Bamenda you can find tour operators who are happy to organize it for you
Written August 19, 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
starsuk
Uk201 contributions
Jul 2012 • Couples
We did the 'little' ring road, so up to Wum and then down to Bafut. Thoroughly enjoyed it, we had a lovely sunny day and it was wonderful. The views were breath-taking. Roads very bad because it was rainy season but still enjoyed it. Highly recommended. We did it in two days which was a bit of a push but if you have time it's a nice place to spend it.
Written August 10, 2012
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
PK S
8 contributions
Apr 2018 • Friends
The long awaited ring road is now up and running. Though it came a bit late but it is indeed serving its purpose
Written June 1, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
wallang vaas
1 contribution
Nice pics but the writer seems not to know what he/she is talking about
That fall is ...MENCHUM FALL
the palace is..FON'S PALACE
That fall is ...MENCHUM FALL
the palace is..FON'S PALACE
Written June 17, 2014
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Griet B
Antwerp, Belgium93 contributions
Jan 2017 • Family
We did a part of the ring road, lot of dust because of dry season, nice little villages. We went to Kumbo, Tatum wich is very nice and quit place with beautifull nature
Written January 26, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
MaryBryan2011
Columbus, OH202 contributions
Dec 2016 • Couples
Parts of the road are in excellent conditions, others are quite run-down. Not any worse than the rest of the country's roads. Locals tell me part of the reason roads are so bad is because the government repairs them, but if private towns/villages pay to repair them themselves they risk being arrested.
Written January 7, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Ngufor R
Bamenda, Cameroon1 contribution
Jan 2016 • Friends
roads conditions at some areas are real discouraging. pod holes on most of the roads but i love the road from hospital roundabout to bali, this is the stretch where luminous plaza hotel is found
Written February 27, 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
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