This is one of our favorite trips. Never lacking in character, this trip has it all. Passing the shores of Moraine Lake we hike into a Basin below the face of Mount Bowlen. Endless 4th class quartzite and 5 pitches of technical alpine rock (up to 5.6) give access to the Fay Glacier above. From here we weave in and around crevasses on the final leg of the approach to the Neil Colgan Hut, seated on the shoulder of Mount Little... and that's only the first day.
Staying at the Neil Colgan Hut (the highest habitable dwelling in Canada) allows us to travel light and gives comfortable accommodation while on the program. The West Ridge and North Face routes of Mount Fay, as well as Mount Little are all accessible from the hut and will be our main objectives for the trip.
• Banff National Park, Alberta Canada