Head to Half Moon Bay for a NorCal coastal vibe and fall spirit

Yes, in California the seasons are gentler, but that doesn’t mean we don’t still crave that sweaters-and-gourds fall feeling. About an hour south of San Francisco, Half Moon Bay rocks an autumn vibe that’s equal parts coastal California and cozy New England—think big waves and record-breaking pumpkins.

Those big Pacific waves come courtesy of the waters beyond Mavericks Beach that swell in late fall. And the pumpkins? Half Moon Bay is pretty much pumpkin central this time of year, starting in early October with the Great Pumpkin Weigh-Off and the Half Moon Bay Pumpkin and Art Festival. Throughout October and well into November, you can pick your own pumpkin at a local patch; get a pumpkin facial; nibble on pumpkin scones, pies, and candies; and even make your own beautiful glass pumpkin.

“I have always been a maker of pumpkins for many reasons, but the key one is that people love them,” says Douglass C. Brown (yes, Douglass), who has been working with glass for four decades, and who teaches glass pumpkin-making classes at Half Moon Bay Art Glass. “Outside the U.S., it seems like pumpkins are just a gourd for soups and baking. People look at me and say, ’Why pumpkins?’ For me it is a chance to explore the world of color in glass.”

When he’s not crafting his own pumpkins or teaching people the secrets of hot glass, Brown is enjoying fall in Half Moon Bay. “My favorite things to do in HMB are kayaking and hiking along the cliffs of the coast.” Along this less-developed stretch, the beaches are wilder, and the views remind you of just how big the Pacific is. And for Brown, there’s a perfect end to clear fall days: “I love to see that sunset here on the coast.” (We’d also add tidepooling at Cowell Ranch Beach and window shopping on Main Street to our ideal day.)

And while those little glass pumpkins are top of mind this season, there are also plenty of other ways to flex your creative muscles in one of the studio’s classes. “When people sign up for a class, they have a choice to make one of over 20 projects, including pumpkins, vases, bowls, sea stars, sea urchins, mushrooms, terrariums, paperweights and memory balls,” says Brown. In the studio’s gallery, you can browse both artist-made pumpkins, jellyfish lamps, and glass orchids hand sculpted by Brown himself.

Like the glass studio, Half Moon Bay is loaded with bright, colorful diversions. From hands-on fall fun to spooky walks and pumpkin treats, here’s the best of Half Moon Bay right now.

—Christine Sarkis, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

Sip, stroll, and spook yourself at these Half Moon Bay spots

Where to start? In fall, the fun-for-all activities at this family-oriented farm include haunted houses (both scary and sweet), hay rides, and a pumpkin patch. There are also plenty of little-kid delights at Lemos Farm like a giant slide, pony and train rides, and a petting zoo. Speaking of the petting zoo, the farm has a gaggle of little goats that make weekend yoga classes 1,000 percent cuter than the average exercise class.

Take home a pumpkin that you’ll never have to compost at Half Moon Bay Art Glass. Depending on your dedication to DIY, you can either take a class and make your own glass pumpkin (remember to book in advance!) or just stop in to browse and buy a beautiful little holiday-themed glass gourd. They’re pretty enough (and come in enough colors) that you won’t even need to put it away when fall ends—who says they can’t join a tree or menorah come December?

Same ocean, different vibe: The Northern California coast just feels different than SoCal’s. It’s chillier yes, but cozier as well. So layer up (knowing you may get to shed a few layers as you catch those sunbeams) and head out for a fall walk along this coastal trail. Along the way, you’ll be treated to great ocean views as you walk along beautiful bluffs and beaches. And if you’re lucky, you might spot a red-tailed hawk or blue heron.

Starting in early November, storm swells attract serious surfers to Mavericks at Pillar Point Harbor. This stretch is a famous name on the big-wave surfing circuit, but there’s plenty here for your average visitor, too. First, you don’t need to charge into the water to appreciate those big waves, they’re also spectacular on land—sure to inspire some ooohs and ahhs as you watch them crash down on the shore. And at low tide, the tidepools that emerge are full of sealife like anemones, sea stars, fish, crabs, and even the occasional octopus. Bonus: The whole beach has a mellow (and dog-friendly) local vibe.

On a foggy day, there’s nothing more beautifully spooky than a trip to the cemetery that makes up the heart of the lost town of Purissima. Just four miles south of Half Moon Bay, Purissima was once a thriving town, but was completely abandoned in the 1930s. Now, just the cemetery (and a few ruined buildings nearby) remain, making it the ultimate Halloween outing. Moss-draped Monterey cypress trees hang over weathered gravestones, adding to the atmosphere. Come stroll quietly and ponder the lives of those who lived here and why this town has only left behind its dead.

Upscale offerings mix with seafood classics at these spots.

The frills are few but the fish is fantastic at Barbara’s Fishtrap. This popular fish shack serves up famously mouth-watering fish fried with a light and crunchy batter that pairs perfectly with piping hot steak fries. And the fish-focused menu doesn’t stop at the fryer. There’s everything from clam chowder to shrimp Louie and ceviche. And on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, don’t miss the fish tacos and fajitas.

Even if you’re not staying at the Ritz-Carlton it’s worth booking a table at Navio and treating yourself to a spectacular meal. Navio’s two-Michelin-star chef Francisco Simón gives you the chance to savor the season with dishes like pumpkin gnudi and salmon with Hen of the Woods mushrooms. Windowside tables angled to frame stunning Pacific views during the day and serious mood lighting at night make this the perfect spot for a special occasion. But it’s unfussy enough to also be a great spot to catch up with friends or simply elevate the sunset with champagne and oysters.

Coastside cool rules at Dad’s Luncheonette. It’s a fresh-air with no airs kind of spot, with a parking-lot location right off Highway 1. (Keep your eyes peeled for the bright-red caboose and you’ve found it.) This delicious dive is the passion project of chef Scott Clark, the namesake “dad” and a former three-Michelin-star chef de cuisine. When Clark became a parent, he made a big lifestyle downshift, and you can taste the results. Order up responsibly sourced burgers, Maitake mushroom sandwiches, mac ‘n’ cheese, homemade potato chips, and more.

There’s no either/or here—you’re going to get amazing views and great food at La Costanera. Peruvian coastal cuisine feels right at home as you gaze out at the Pacific, and Chef Carlos Altamirano makes delicious use of the fresh fruits and vegetables from local farms. Definitely order the signature wild-caught fish ceviche and a pisco sour, no debate, and then let the rest of the menu sweep you into the Southern Hemisphere with delights like empanadas, lomo saltado, and tequenos. Its recent move to a new space means there’s now two bars plus a large patio with outdoor fire pits—plenty of room to linger and enjoy.

There are two kinds of people in the world: those who believe pumpkin is an acceptable flavor for beer and those who don’t. And both will be happy with Half Moon Bay Brewing Company’s seasonal on-tap offerings. Yes, there’s pumpkin harvest ale made with locally grown Sugar Pie pumpkins. But there’s also IPAs, kolsch, saison, and even a wild coffee-milk stout brewed with espresso. The menu has all the brewpub faves (nachos and burgers) plus some HMB-inspired options like fisherman’s fish stew, a Maverick’s tuna melt, and seasonal oysters.

Cozy and luxe—you don’t have to choose just one at these hotels.

What do we want? Ocean views! When do we want them? Pretty much all the time! Beach House Hotel Half Moon Bay hears you, and delivers amazing views and boutique-hotel perks from its relaxed seaside perch. Snuggle up by the fire in one of the hotel’s junior suites—they’re plenty roomy and nearly all have ocean views. Each room’s patio or balcony is the perfect spot to kick back and enjoy cozy coastal living, and everything from Wi-Fi and breakfast to parking and fitness-center access is included with your stay.

Luxe linens, cozy fire pits, two award-winning golf courses, and pumpkin facials? It’s literally all the things you need for the ultimate fall weekend getaway. The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay sits on a gorgeous bluff just a few miles from downtown Half Moon Bay, but it’s its own world of unhurried luxury that makes a weekend away feel twice as long and half as rushed. And those pumpkin spa treatments are the real deal, like the pumpkin enzyme mask that nourishes skin and leaves you smelling positively delicious.

Pretty, romantic, and close to nature—that’s the vibe of the Cypress Inn on Miramar Beach. Each of the 18 rooms has its own character, color-scheme, design, and name, like the exposed wood beams and cozy fireside seating of the Point Reyes suite or the sky-inspired paint scheme and the sweeping views from the third floor balcony of Las Nubes suite. Definitely browse the offerings—rooms and suites, fireplaces and balconies—to find your perfect match. Service is warm and welcoming; mornings start with the included daily full breakfast (which you can have sent to your room), and in the evenings, wine, cheese, and homemade desserts pair perfectly with those ocean sunset views.

There’s the beachy part of Half Moon Bay and then there’s the uber-cute historic Main Street side of things. The Nantucket Whale Inn is the place to go if you’re looking for the latter. The 1898 Victorian is beautifully cozy but still stylish—think clean lines and crisp white bed linens rather than floral everything and dusty doilies. Complimentary happy hour and fantastic full breakfasts come included with the room rate, as does access to the beautiful garden with a firepit that makes evenings feel magical.

The Oceanfront Hotel puts the star of the show—the beautiful Pacific—front and center. You’ll get sweeping ocean views from nearly everywhere: the rooms, the balconies and patios, and some of the common spaces. The whole place feels a bit like a friend-of-a-friend’s big beach house in a way that’s relaxed, a little quirky, and personal, with big comfy beds and binoculars in every room, so you can settle the debate you’re sure to have over and over: Did you spot a whale, a rock, or a boat?

More like this: