How to catch spooky fall vibes in London
From a pet cemetery to a creepy surgical theater.
I’ve lived in London for more than 13 years and what I’ve always found most thrilling are its quirks and eccentricities—the hidden Victorian passageways, higgledy-piggledy old buildings, and beautiful graveyards. Sure, London has world-renowned stage shows and big-hit museums, but when I’m hosting visitors, I make sure to sprinkle in some spooky, offbeat attractions.
With a history spanning 2,000 years, London has plenty of ghost stories and curious goings-on to explore. From the West End’s most haunted five-star hotel to a grisly museum near London Bridge, here are my top spine-tingling must-dos.
The quintessentially spooky spot: Highgate Cemetery
When I first moved to London, I found Highgate Cemetery entirely by accident on a walk from Kenwood House, on the northern edge of Hampstead Heath. Taking a shortcut via Swain’s Lane, I stumbled upon this Victorian resting place that’s home to 170,000 of London’s long dead. The most notable—and the reason many visitors visit—is the 19th-century philosopher Karl Marx, whose marble tomb is inscribed with the words: “Workers of all lands, unite” beneath a large bronze bust. Marx’s famous neighbors include the 19th-century novelist George Eliot and Malcolm McLaren, the former manager of the Sex Pistols.
Book a 75-minute tour led by a local volunteer to hear tales of Highgate Cemetery’s famous residents and learn about its history. And be sure to keep an eye out for the elusive and rare cave spiders hiding in the vaults of Egyptian Avenue, Gothic-style chapels, and the ethereal Terrace Catacombs.
Tip: After exploring the cemetery, I always head to the resolutely charming Flask pub on Highgate West Hill. It’s a spirited spot where highwayman Dick Turpin is said to occasionally frequent (Side note: poor Dickie was hung for his crimes in 1739).
Travelers say: “I visited for about the fourth time in 25 years and there is always something new to learn, whether it’s new sites uncovered, wildlife, or different architecture. …I recommend booking tours in advance, especially as the Friends of Highgate rarely run tours of the newer side of the cemetery.”—@juliemH5050WI
The wild card: The Old Operating Theatre Museum & Herb Garret
The Old Operating Theatre Museum & Herb Garret near the London Bridge is as macabre as it sounds. Dating back to 1822, it’s the oldest surviving surgical theater in Europe and was once used to treat patients—mostly for amputations—with many surgeries carried out before the advent of anesthetics. This offbeat museum is in the attic of an 18th-century church within a former section of St. Thomas' Hospital, one of the oldest hospitals in the country. Climb the coiling staircase to reach the operating room. In the center, a 19th-century timber operating table, which was also referred to as “the stage,” is surrounded by tiered seating once reserved for spectators. The museum’s collection is fascinating, including a gut-churning metal amputation set.
Tip: Grab breakfast at Borough Market before heading to the museum. Bread Ahead Bakery has outrageously good pastries and donuts, while Flat Cap Coffee Co. serves delicious coffee roasted in East London.
Other things you won't want to miss in London:
A Jack the Ripper tour
Jack the Ripper’s killing spree terrorized Whitechapel and Shoreditch in 1888 and this tour stops at spots connected to the murders, including The Ten Bells pub, where some of his victims were last seen alive.
Hyde Park's pet cemetery
Book a monthly tour through The Royal Parks to see Hyde Park’s secret Pet Cemetery. This Victorian burial ground contains the remains of over 1,000 pets.
Sunday roast at The Camberwell Arms
My go-to Sunday roast spot for impressing friends is The Camberwell Arms in south London for its spit-roast chicken, rolled pork belly, and slow-braised lamb shoulder with all the trimmings.
A stay at The Langham
Over the years, guests at The Langham have encountered a plethora of ghostly sightings, from unexplained presences to flickering lights. But don't let them dissuade you from visiting the sumptuous spa, cocktail bar, and decadent tea salon.
A pint at The French House
Relax with a Guinness and plate of oysters upstairs at this Soho institution, a popular haunt among artists, writers, and actors—including Dylan Thomas and Lucian Freud—for decades.
The views of the skyline from a medieval tower
The Garden Museum is home to rare plants and an exhibition on the history of British gardens, but the main draw is the medieval tower up a 131-step spiral staircase—it offers some of the best panoramic views of the city's skyline.
