Weekend in Greenwich, CT: A beach escape near NYC

When you think of Greenwich, Connecticut, you usually picture million-dollar mansions, polo matches, and luxury shopping along Greenwich Avenue, which has been called the "Rodeo Drive of the East Coast." Sure, there’s all that, but this town is also a surprisingly accessible summer getaway.

“There are islands, there are beaches, there are peninsulas, there are bays, there are inlets. It’s a very beautiful coastline,” says Charles Mallory, whose family has been in Connecticut for more than 200 years. Together with his son, Dixon, he runs Greenwich Hospitality Group, which includes the Delamar Greenwich Harbor Hotel. The Delamar brings a Mediterranean vibe to the Connecticut coast—as well as some unique experiences, like going for a spin around town in a vintage car. Trust me: Driving in a rare 1957 Mercedes Benz 300SL was one of the most memorable experiences my car-obsessed husband and I have ever had at a hotel.

Another thing going for Greenwich—aka the “Gateway to New England”—is its easy location, just a short drive or a 45-minute train ride from Grand Central Terminal. It’s also bigger than you think. Greenwich is made up of several hamlets, including the village of Greenwich, Old Greenwich (filled with swanky houses), Cos Cob (home to a great shopping district), and Byram (an arts-and-culture hub). In future issues of The WeekEnder, we’ll be back to visit more of the area, but in this installment, we’re focusing on the village of Greenwich and its surrounding nature.

Taylor Gray is the head of marketing and communications for the Bruce Museum, a world-class art institution that recently reopened after a $60 million renovation. He was raised in Greenwich, and after getting married and having two kids in New York City, he returned. Here’s what he loves about this area: “Whether you’re visiting the beach and walking the tidal pools at Greenwich Point, driving through the lush green backcountry, or walking down Greenwich Avenue with its historic buildings, you are always surrounded by beauty,” says Gray.

Greenwich’s vibrant cultural scene also makes it a magnet for art and history buffs, says Paul O. Robertson, the chief operating officer of Connecticut’s Department of Economic and Community Development. “Any time I have guests from out of town, I take them to the Bruce Museum. It is a beautiful place, and I feel like I discover something new every time I visit. I also really enjoy checking out the exhibits at Greenwich Historical Society,” says Robertson. “And what is a Saturday without visiting the Greenwich Farmers Market?”

So what’ll it be? Artsy weekend escape? Shopping blitz? Natural retreat? Million-dollar house tours? Or all of the above? Read on to get to know all the different versions of Greenwich.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

Want a taste of Greenwich’s good life? Step into this Italianate-style waterfront retreat. Its grand lobby sets the tone with reproduction 18th-century furniture and paintings from Charles Mallory’s private collection. But maybe the ultimate in over-the-top luxuries is the DeLaLuxe Package: A chauffeur will pick you up at home in a vintage car like a Rolls-Royce Phantom Drophead Coupe and whisk you off to the property in style. During your stay, you’ll tour the stunning coastline in one of the hotel’s rare, custom yachts, take a ride in Charles Mallory’s personal fleet of antique cars, indulge in a spa treatment, enjoy a five-course farm-to-table dinner at L’Escale, and more.

For Instagrammers: The J House Greenwich - An old Howard Johnson’s has been transformed into a mid-century sleek hotel with plenty of IG-worthy moments, from the artwork (including busts of superheroes and a photo collage of Mick Jagger) to the outdoor pool surrounded by cabanas.

For history buffs: Stanton House Inn - The Seaman-Brush house was designed as a private home by architect Stanford White over 100 years ago; now it’s a boutique hotel with a pool, two acres of lush gardens, and 20 rooms filled with antiques and clawfoot tubs.

Kitchens run by internationally known chefs and generations of locals keep the food scene vibrant and buzzing.

Glory Days Diner - Behind the brick facade is a diner with comfort-food classics (hash browns, omelets), flowing coffee, chatty waitresses, and lots of chrome and neon. “Every visit makes me feel like I’m stepping back in time,” says Robertson.

Meli-Melo - There’s plenty on the menu, but Belgian chef Nadia Ramsey has made a name for one thing. “Meli-Melo is hard to beat with their delicious crepes,” says Dixon Mallory.

Raphael’s Bakery - This family-owned bakery is known for buttery croissants, chouquettes (a light-as-air pastry sprinkled with sugar), and made-to-order Napoleons, all prepared with ingredients imported from France. "Hands down my favorite place to go for French pastries," says Robertson.

Eastend - “My go-to for lunch is Eastend. I love the menu and the contemporary feel of the place,” says Robertson. Some menu highlights: spicy lamb meatballs, short-rib ravioli, oysters on the half shell with a cucumber chili ceviche.

Le Penguin - Veteran restaurateurs Antoine Blech (Spago in L.A., Le Bilboquet in NYC) and Anshu Vidyarthi (The Ivy in L.A., Le Colonial in NYC) joined forces to create this French bistro with all the classics—steak frites, escargots. “It’s a ladies’ lunch and date night staple,” says Gray.

Terra Ristorante Italiano - Wood-fired pizzas and handmade pasta like sheep milk ricotta cavatelli will transport you to Italy. “Terra has been a staple in town for a long time and for good reason—excellent and consistent food,” says Dixon Mallory.

The Ginger Man - If you’re in the mood for elevated pub grub—a bacon-jam cheeseburger, pesto mac-and-cheese with cave-aged cheddar, wings with an orange chipotle glaze—this is the place.

Happy Monkey - Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten puts a twist on Latin flavors: Think, white asparagus in a jalapeno-coriander vinaigrette or whole grilled lobster with smoked chili butter. Find the best seats in the house at the friendly communal table.

Hinoki - Japanese-style izakaya dining with influences from across Asia like a king crab truffle rice hot pot. “Really fun ambiance and the food is even better—delicious cocktails as well.”

La Taqueria - It’s all about authentic Mexican street food at this taqueria from Dennis Lake, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Don’t miss the beer-battered cod tacos with chipotle crema, red cabbage, and cilantro.

L’Escale - Executive chef Frederic Kieffer loves to showcase tastes from his native France in this low-lit waterfront dining room overlooking the marina. Don’t miss his quintessential bouillabaisse (a garlicky blend of branzino, monkfish, and more) and the dark chocolate souffle, served with a Grand Marnier crème anglaise. And take a detour through the next-door cocktail room where the drinks are named after old Hollywood films.

Mediterraneo - “The seafood dishes are not to be missed,” says Robertson. The menu changes seasonally, but expect a mix of flavors like the Hidden Fjord Salmon with marinated beets, grilled asparagus, and wild ramp gremolata. “A local favorite that never disappoints,” says Gray.

The Cottage - A Greenwich mainstay, the Cottage is run by James Beard–nominated chef Brian Lewis, who loves to feature New England purveyors and farmers in dishes like the Rhode Island black bass with braised artichoke hearts, saffron, cherry tomatoes, and black- olive salt.

Van Leeuwen Ice Cream - Brothers Ben and Pete Van Leeuwen—cofounders of this high-end ice cream brand—are natives of Greenwich. They recently opened a shop in their hometown, where you can sample unique ingredients like hand-harvested Chinese tea.

Greenwich delivers big-time art and history on an approachable small-town scale.

Bruce Museum - Art aficionados, science geeks, and kids who are fascinated by dinosaurs and bugs will love this museum. “The Bruce now has the capability to host world-class exhibitions, which is a great addition for the town,” says Dixon Mallory. And thanks to a major renovation, there’s a new building with dramatic, light-filled public spaces, a cafe, and an expanded museum store.

Bush-Holley House - This 1728 house became an artists’ colony in the late 1800s and was a hotbed of Impressionist art in America. These days, it’s a National Historic Landmark and the centerpiece of the Greenwich Historical Society, where you’ll learn all about the town’s rich past.

Greenwich Symphony Orchestra - Is music your thing? Check out the symphony—around since 1940—for an elegant Saturday night out or a lovely Sunday afternoon.

Putnam Cottage - During the Revolutionary War, Putnam Cottage was a tavern that served hungry travelers and troops (George Washington even stopped in to feed his men). It’s since been turned into a small by-appointment museum filled with war artifacts.

Fun fact: When the New Haven Railroad was built after the Civil War, Greenwich became a vacation hotspot for New Yorkers in search of fresh air, beaches, and parkland.

Audubon Center - The birdwatching is next level at the National Audubon Society’s first environmental education center, which has 285 lush acres lined with gentle walking trails.

Binney Park - Edward Binney, who co-founded the company that makes Crayola crayons, gifted this 33-acre park to the town back in the early 1920s. “A beautiful place to walk and enjoy the great outdoors,” says Robertson.

Great Captain Island - It’s a quick ferry ride to the largest of three islands off the Greenwich coast. “I highly recommend taking the cruise to Great Captain Island to check out the historic lighthouse and bird sanctuary,” says Robertson. Tickets are limited, so get there early.

Greenwich Point Park - This sprawling beach and nature sanctuary is also known as Tod’s Point, named for J. Kennedy Tod, a banker who built a 147-acre waterfront estate here in 1884. Non-residents need to get a pass from the Department of Parks and Recreation to visit in summer, but it’s worth the effort for the breathtaking views of Long Island Sound and the Manhattan skyline in the distance.

Called “The Ave” by locals, Greenwich Avenue is a mile-long main drag dotted with high-end stores. “Prestigious retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Tiffany’s rub elbows with boutique clothiers and jewelers,” says Gray. Check out these top shopping stops on and off The Ave.

Diane’s Books - Locals refer to owner Diane Garrett as “the book matchmaker” because—yes—she’s that good at finding your next great read.

Greenwich Farmer’s Market - Farmers and food producers come from all over the region to sell their goods at this buzzing weekly market that’s held in the commuter parking lot on Arch Street every Saturday.

Pinky - Looking for a pretty-in-pink Barbie look? You’ll find it at this locally owned women’s clothing boutique that stocks plenty of Barbiecore fashions.

Richards - Originally a men’s haberdashery, this family-owned department store is the place for accessories from the likes of Tom Ford and Chloe. “It’s a local institution,” says Gray.

Splurge - Need to find a memorable gift? You’ll definitely find something among Splurge’s ever-changing assortment of hand-picked treasures, from stationery to jewelry to home goods.