Weekend in Lancaster, Pennsylvania: A buzzing city in Amish country

When you think of Pennsylvania Amish Country, you picture horse-drawn buggies, quilts, and farms. But here’s a surprise: At the heart of Lancaster County is a buzzing, modern city with a rich history. Founded in 1730, Lancaster was an important munitions center during the American Revolution. Today, it’s experiencing a rebirth, thanks to ambitious restaurateurs, stylish shop owners, and cool artists.

The small towns of Amish Country are worth checking out (more on that in future issues), but this weekend, we’re heading downtown to meet up with plugged-in locals like Karen Loftus, a luxury travel advisor with Virtuoso, founder of the boutique travel-planning company, Women’s Adventure Travels, and owner of The Say Wat Shop, an online store dedicated to women's empowerment. Growing up outside of Philadelphia, Karen’s only experience with Lancaster was on a school trip to visit the Amish. But after living in New York, Los Angeles, London, Barcelona, and Seattle, she went on a weekend escape to visit a friend—and fell in love.

“I was attracted to the diversity, the global community that has chosen to live here, and the creative scene that is reminiscent of big cities like LA and NYC,” says Karen. “Plus, everything’s a fraction of the price in NYC, and you can pack a lot into two days and see it all on foot—no car or Uber necessary.”

Another transplant who fell for Lancaster is Irish-born Joe Devoy, who came here to help open a bar and never left. “It’s got great arts, music, and salt-of-the-earth people. So it started to feel like home very quickly,” says Joe, who is now a local fixture and runs a popular summertime spot called Sickman’s Mill that has tubing, food, and entertainment.

One member of the city’s thriving cultural community is artist Keisha Finnie, whose abstract work can be seen around town—from the mural “Music for Everyone” on Duke Street’s Penn Square Garage to the coffee mugs at A Concrete Rose, the nation’s first Black-owned micro-winery, tapas restaurant, bookstore, and performance venue. Keisha is a born-and-bred Lancastrian. What she loves about her native city: “It’s totally changing and becoming more cultured and more inclusive,” she says. “There’s so much to do—restaurants, bookstores, coffee shops—and there are new businesses opening almost every week.”

So join us as we head to Lancaster for a weekend of exploring and soaking in the cool (and affordable) scene.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

The hotel selection in Lancaster is small, but it has style in spades.

Set in a luxurious former department store built in 1878 across from the Central Market, the Lancaster Marriott at Penn Square is the place to be. There’s a rooftop bar with 360-degree city views, a sleek club floor, and a preserved section of the Underground Railroad. “That alone is reason enough to stay,” says Karen Loftus.

The 19th century Armstrong Cork Factory is now a stylish boutique hotel with modern, loft-like rooms and an onsite restaurant. "Cork & Cap provides a nod to the past with its hearty Pennsylvania Dutch-inspired cuisine and old stone walls. The architecture will take your breath away,” says Karen.

This rustic-chic hotel is like a living museum, with some of Lancaster’s finest works of art—269 pieces by 36 artists. “I love the original construction, which dates back to the 1880s,” says Karen.

From one of the best (and oldest) food markets in the nation to innovative chef-run restaurants, Lancaster is fast becoming a culinary paradise.

Annie Bailey’s Irish Public House - Looking for a full Irish breakfast? “This is as Irish as it gets—and the food is top drawer, from the shepards pie to the bangers and mash,” says Karen Loftus.

Shot and Bottle - "This brunch favorite is set in the 1924 Griest Building, which used to be the tallest building in town,” says Karen. Don't miss the savory waffles.

The Imperial - Locals flock to brunch for cinnamon sticky buns, deviled eggs with crisp prosciutto, and more. Fun fact: The restaurant is located in a hotel that Abraham Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt frequented back in the day.

C’est La Vie - Right next to the Central Market is this European bistro with indoor and outdoor seating. “You can’t go wrong with the brick oven pizza, beet salad, or seared salmon,” says Karen.

Max’s Eatery - A contemporary diner with next-level shakes, burgers, and burritos. “It’s perfect for families,” says Karen.

SpiceKings Kitchen - Don’t miss the crab boils at this hibachi seafood restaurant where you’ll also spot a Keisha Finnie mural.

Silantra - “This Asian street-food kitchen has healthy food and vegan options—it’s really good,” says Keisha.

A Concrete Rose - This trailblazing Black woman-owned spot has just about everything you could want: It’s a tapas restaurant, micro-winery, bookstore, and performance venue. “They make their own wine in-house, and you can see my art here, from the mural that I did on the wall to the coffee mugs,” says Keisha.

The Lancaster Dispensing Company - This casual spot is called “DipCo” by the locals. “If you’re looking for a fun space with bar food and a few pints of beer, it’s the place to go,” says Joe Devoy.

Double C - “If you are a meat eater, this is nirvana,” says Karen. “You’ll find Black Angus beef, hickory-smoked pulled pork, and Suffolk lamb in the tacos, quesadillas, and bowls.”

Tellus360 - This Irish pub doubles as one of the premier live event venues in the city, with a rooftop market full of street food vendors.

Horse Inn - One of the oldest restaurants in town. “They grow their own vegetables and herbs, and chef Matt Russell does a fantastic job,” says Joe.

Central Market - Opened in 1730, Lancaster’s grand dame is the oldest continuously operated public market in the U.S. “If you see nothing else but the market, you’ve seen a lot,” says Karen. “The vendors are as diverse as the community—from the traditional Amish to Mennonite and many others that hail from Cuba, Uruguay, Italy, Spain, the Middle East, and Scandinavia.”

Southern Market - Originally opened in 1888, the Southern Market relaunched in 2022 as a food hall with a focus on emerging and established chefs, each serving up their own unique creations. One stand not to miss: Bushra Fakier’s Flavors of Morocco.

Josephine’s Downtown - Black-and-white images of old Hollywood icons set the tone at this fine dining spot known for its duck a l’orange and Dover sole. “The menu is unlike any other in the city—the chef brings his experience at Philadelphia’s Le Bec-Fin and Paris’s Alain Ducasse to the table,” says Karen.

The Pressroom Restaurant - You’ll find year-round dining in an atmospheric building dating to the mid 1700’s. In the summer, angle for one of the tables in Steinman Park. Karen recommends the charcuterie and the flatbreads.

Lombardo’s Italian American - A family-style favorite since 1946 with a killer happy hour. “The burrata and seared scallops are my go to’s,” says Karen.

John J. Jeffries - This restaurant at the Arts Hotel was named in honor of a tobacco inspector whose moniker was found inscribed on the floor. “It’s a really good place for farm-to-table food,” says Joe.

Gibraltar Grille - Just outside the city center, it’s well worth the 10-minute drive for an innovative cocktail list and seasonally focused dishes. “Their halibut is a menu staple, and they have a list of 40-plus wines by the glass,” says Karen.

Miesse Candies - Founded in Lancaster County in 1875, this downtown storefront space serves up irresistible candies and hand-dipped ice cream.

Beiler’s Doughnuts - “Over-the-top innovative doughnuts,” says Karen.

Bistro Barberet & Bakery - “Owner, operator, and chef Cedric Barberet’s pastries and desserts are a work of art,” says Karen.

Thistle Finch Distillery - This rustic-chic tasting room serves cocktails crafted from house-made infusions. “Rye whiskey aficionados will love the Saturday afternoon distillery tours,” says Karen.

Proof - Whiskey, wine, and small plates set the scene at this low-lit basement bar with old stone walls.

Lancaster Brewing Company - This craft brewery carries on local brewing traditions that go back to the 1700s—think rustic, flavorful ales and German-style lagers.

Spring House Brewing Company - At this antique warehouse, you’ll find craft beers brewed onsite and wood-fired pizzas.

Unique Lancaster Experiences - A collective of local guides have spent years exploring the world and now host Lancaster food tours, scavenger hunts, and other explorations.

LoKal Experiences - Truly authentic tours like a dive bar crawl to historic downtown spots.

With a deep history and a modern cultural scene, Lancaster has plenty to keep travelers entertained.

Fulton Theatre - This recently renovated 1852 performance space has a storied history: It has hosted everyone from Mark Twain to Louis Armstrong, as well as Lancaster’s own Broadway darling, Jonathan Groff (who has starred in Glee and Hamilton). “The aesthetics are stunning,” says Karen. “My favorite thing to do is to get a drink and check out the walls lined with playbills from the last century.”

The Ware Center - A state-of-the-art arts center with shows, performances, and more. ​​Keisha Finnie’s exhibition, “Brown Skin Girl: The Evolution,” is on display through March 31.

EsoArts - This cutting-edge new space is dedicated to promoting artists, makers, dreamers, doers, and creators.

Gallery Row - Take a stroll along the first and second blocks of North Prince Street, where you’ll find many art galleries. Don’t miss the BIPOC Gallery Row Exhibition during the May Spring Art Walk, which Keisha curated with a number of artists of color.

Zoetropolis - The place for dinner and a movie, with a serious lineup of independent, foreign, and documentary films.

Here’s where the locals go to breathe in the area’s fresh air.

Lancaster County Central Park - “I love hiking and you don't have to go too far out of the city—there are a lot of hidden gems in this park, which is way bigger than people think,” says Keisha Finnie.

Enola Low Grade Rail Trail - “A spectacular old rail trail not far away that’s flat and accessible for all ages with beautiful places to pull off,” says Joe Devoy.

Sickman’s Mill - This seasonal business is based out of a 1752 stone mill on the Pequea Creek. From here, you can spend a leisurely afternoon tubing down the creek. Then hang out and taste the brews and spirits at Jimmy’s Place, listen to live music, and sample local eats from onsite food trucks.

Chickies Rock County Park - This 400-acre park is a top spot for hikers, with eye-popping views of the Susquehanna River. “The River Trail below is popular with bikers,” says Karen Loftus.

“Lancaster’s quirky retail establishments feed off the artists’ souls,” says Joe Devoy.

Festoon - A former fashion illustrator opened this chic boutique for clothing and accessories. It’s also got an eclectic mix of housewares, flowers, ceramics, and gifts by local artists.

J. Hilburn - Luxury menswear with a dynamic personal stylist on hand to guide you.

Building Character - A series of old warehouses with a collection of more than 70 shops for handmade, vintage, and other finds. “It reflects the blazing entrepreneurial streak that runs through the city,” says Karen Loftus. “It’s Etsy on steroids.”

David Lyall - One of Lancaster's premier interior designers opened this custom furniture and design showroom in a renovated 1890’s tobacco warehouse.

Pocket Books - At this eclectic feminist bookstore, you’ll find local writers reading from their upcoming releases.