Winter in the Poconos: Mountains galore and family-friendly waterparks

The last time The WeekEnder visited the Poconos, we were heading into summer. Here’s the thing about this classic Pennsylvania escape: It delivers in every season. “There’s truly everything for anybody—especially in winter,” says Tim Bayer, the VP of operations at Camelback Mountain, which is home to a serious skiing operation and one of the largest indoor waterparks in the country where the temperature is always a balmy 84 degrees.

So this weekend, we’re heading to the mountains to kick off 2023 with some snow and waterslides and adventure. But first, a little history lesson. The Poconos made its name in the post World War II era with honeymoon resorts and heart-shaped tubs. At the same time, a ski scene was quietly taking hold, starting with the opening of Big Boulder in 1946. Fun fact: This ski resort (literally) invented the concept of the snowmaking machine. Camelback—the largest ski area in the Poconos—opened in 1963, and the hits kept coming, including Jack Frost, which entered the scene in 1972 and was recently bought by Vail Resorts, along with Big Boulder.

These days, there are a half dozen ski resorts to choose from in the Poconos, but on this escape, we’re zeroing in on a small area that stretches from Blakeslee east to Tannersville and has three mountains within a half-hour drive: Camelback, Jack Frost, and Big Boulder. Whether you’re looking for kid-friendly slopes, terrain parks and daredevil shredding, or disco-party snow tubing, you’ll find it—along with stunning natural beauty. “The area is beautiful and the rolling hills and vista views from the top of our mountains makes me feel connected to nature and humbled to be a part of this community,” says Trent Poole, general manager of Jack Frost - Big Boulder.

Beyond the slopes, there are plenty of off-piste adventures and après-ski moments to keep you entertained, including an increasingly delicious food scene. Kurt and Deatra Cummings are from Brooklyn, but 18 years ago, they moved to the Poconos in search of a more relaxing life. What attracted them to these mountains: “The people are friendly, the nature is beautiful, and it’s got an urban sophistication,” says Kurt. Two years ago, the couple opened their dream restaurant: Wingz And A Prayer, which has developed a following not only for its heavenly wings and positive vibes but also for its owners, who regularly share their travel finds in the area on social media. “We had one woman who heard about us in Turkey and planned a trip to the Poconos, just to eat at our restaurant,” says Kurt.

So whether you’re looking to dive-bomb down a mountain, hike along a snowy trail, get your thrills at an indoor waterpark, or devour some wings with an international following, the Poconos has everything you need for the ultimate winter mountain escape.

Right at the base of Camelback Mountain, this sprawling resort has front-door ski-in, ski-out access to the slopes. And whatever else you can dream of you’ll find it here: a massive indoor waterpark, an outdoor adventure park, an alpine mountain coaster, laser tag, bumper cars, an escape room, the list goes on. Hungry? There’s so much to choose from, including a chophouse, a pizzeria, a brew pub, and a speakeasy-style game room and cocktail lounge for adults.

Honorable hotel mentions

At this charming 14-room B&B, many of the suites are equipped with fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs. The spa has a hot tub with a sauna and steam room—the perfect way to unwind after the slopes.

This adult-friendly casino resort has more than 1,800 slot machines, 80 table games, sportsbook betting, a restaurant from Guy Fieri, a spa, and more.

Endless entertainment, from glow-in-the-dark golfing to nightly storytime to a waterpark with a lazy river, wave pool, and more. Kids love the suites themed around tented camping, log cabins, and wolf dens.

Searching for a family-friendly spot but don’t want to splurge on one of the big resorts? This gated community has spacious accommodations, plus an indoor pool and game room.

Whether you’re looking for pre-ski bites or après-ski vibes, there are plenty of worthy dining destinations scattered throughout these mountains.

Piggy’s in Lake Harmony - The theme here is “breakfast served all day with a smile.” Every meal comes with a free basket of blueberry muffins. Don’t miss the French toast topped with cinnamon-glazed granola.

Scotrun Diner in Scotrun - Since 1977, this Greek diner has been slinging breakfast classics. Western omelet or two eggs with a side of bacon, anyone?

One Love Nutrition in Mount Pocono - A smoothie and juice bar with guilt-free drinks and “pronuts” (a healthy version of donuts). “I go to this local place a lot,” says Kurt Cummings.

Wingz And A Prayer in Long Pond - Hidden in a strip mall, this simple spot often has lines out the door for its wings—which come in more than 60 flavors. The restaurant also has a new dessert spot next door called Got Cookies, which serves more than 25 varieties of cookies.

Jubilee Restaurant in Pocono Pines - While this restaurant is known as “the breakfast king of the Poconos,” it’s not just for mornings. We’re big fans of lunchtime, when you can order the legendary eggs Benedict (served five different ways) or indulge in creative dishes like fried green tomatoes and bang bang shrimp.

Zack’s Taco Shack in Tannersville - This taco joint is known for its Bad Ass Burrito—a foot-wide flour tortilla loaded with Spanish rice pilaf, smoked cayenne sour cream, roasted garlic salsa, cilantro oil, and more.

Barley Creek Brewing Company in Tannersville - A brewpub and distillery. Don’t miss the Hangover Cure, a cheeseburger on a brioche bun topped with a fried egg and thick-cut bacon. “​​They make their own beer and barley wines and spirits,” says Tim Bayer.

Boulder View Tavern in Lake Harmony - Set right at the base of Big Boulder, this restaurant has beautiful views of Boulder Lake and signature dishes like the drunken salmon with sauteed spinach. “They have live music and a relaxed atmosphere,” says Trent Poole.

Butter at the Frogtown Inn in Canadensis - “I’m a big fan of this new chef-owned restaurant,” says Kurt. Look for innovative dishes like a foie gras slider with wild mushroom and bacon caramelized soy.

Louie’s Prime Steak House in Lake Harmony - An intimate, old-school steak restaurant. Don’t miss the jumbo lump crab appetizer and the king cuts of prime rib.

Stone Bar Inn in Stroudsburg - This antiques-filled spot is worth the drive to Stroudsburg for dishes like roast duck with orange sauce and sesame-crusted tuna. It’s no wonder it’s been a Poconos landmark since 1936.

There are several ski spots scattered throughout the Poconos, but the big names are Camelback and Jack Frost - Big Boulder. Here’s our cheat sheet with everything you need to know to make the most of the slopes.

Jack Frost - Big Boulder Mountain Resort

The top line: You get two for the price of one at Jack Frost and its sister mountain, Big Boulder, which are located 12 miles apart. Families love these beginner-friendly slopes, but you’ll also find black diamond runs, in case you have a need for speed. The guy who invented the concept of snowmaking helped build Big Boulder, so you don’t have to worry about Mother Nature.

On the slopes: Between the two resorts, there are 35 trails, 22 lifts (including five brand new ones), and two terrain parks. Snow tubing is also returning to the resorts this season after a pandemic-related hiatus.

Best runs: “At Jack Frost, Challenge is a combination of great views and rolling terrain. As you level up on your skills, East Mountain is iconic to the resort and will get your heart pumping,” says Trent Poole. “If you are just getting into the sport, I would recommend Little Boulder and Edelweiss Slopes at Big Boulder Mountain. It is some of the best learning terrain that I’ve skied, including resorts in the Rocky Mountains.”

Lift tickets: Lift tickets give you access to both mountains, but a heads up: Sales are limited this season in an effort to reduce crowding. Good news for Epic Pass holders: You can use your passes at Jack Frost and Big Boulder, no reservations required. For more information, see the ticketing options page.

Hours: Jack Frost is open for daytime skiing and snowboarding from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekdays and 8:30 to 4 p.m. on weekends, while Big Boulder offers night skiing under the lights, from 3-8 p.m. on weekdays and 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekends.

On-piste dining: From backcountry BBQ to a biergarten, Jack Frost and Big Boulder make sure you’re satiated. “Everyone needs to go to Big Boulder on the weekends and try the Cheesesteak and Tater-Tot combo at the Incline Lodge,” says Trent.

Camelback Mountain Ski Resort

The top line: Besides skiing and snowboarding, Camelback piles on lots of bells and whistles, including Galactic Tubing, a nighttime snow tubing party set to music and disco lights.

On the slopes: The biggest ski resort in the Poconos, Camelback has 39 trails spread across 166 acres, plus a terrain park that has had some major upgrades. The other big news this season—Black Bear 6, a new high-speed six-person, enclosed lift that zips skiers to the top faster than ever. For snow tubing, there are more than 40 lightning-fast lanes, making it one of the largest operations in the country.

Best runs: “For beginners, there are long cruisers like Upper Marc Anthony and Upper Cleopatra that wind through the mountain landscape,” says Tim Bayer. “We also have a great blend of intermediate terrain for skiers and riders looking to move to the next level. Nile Mile is a guest favorite: over a mile long trail with wide open views of the Poconos as you wind your way down the entire mountain.”

Lift tickets: There are a number of lift tickets available; resort guests get discounts on skiing and tubing. For more information, see the ticketing options page.

Hours: Camelback keeps the hits coming from morning to night. The mountain is open every night until 9 p.m., and on weekends, the first tracks open at 7:30 a.m.

On-piste dining: There are tons of food options, including Thirsty Camel Bar & Grille (an indoor/outdoor restaurant featuring local breweries and a pub-style menu) and food trucks offering everything from street tacos to hot dogs. “You can ski right down to Trails End Pub and sit by the outdoor fire pits and enjoy a hot chocolate or an adult beverage,” says Tim.

Besides skiing, this area has every outdoor activity you can imagine. Here are a few winter adventures not to miss.

Hickory Run State Park in White Haven - When Sand Spring Lake freezes over, it’s the best place for outdoor ice skating in the Poconos (just check the ice thickness). And don’t miss this park’s natural phenomenon: a 16-acre flat boulder field.

Austin T. Blakeslee Natural Area in Blakeslee - Many people think of this 130-acre preserve as a summer destination, but it’s also great for winter hiking.

Alvin's Outdoor Adventures in Long Pond - An ATV park that’s open year-round for snowy off-roading.

Naturfi - This adventure outfitter is run by a pair of women, Daniela and Ashleigh, who will set you up with guided snowshoeing tours in the area—or send you off with rentals, if you want to explore on your own.

Not everyone wants to be outdoors in winter. Shoppers have plenty of entertainment here, too.

The Crossings in Tannersville - Home to outlets galore.

Red Run in Pocono Pines - A funky shop with arts, crafts, jewelry, and accessories from local makers.

The Olde Engine Works in Stroudsburg - An historic machine shop that was converted into an epic antiques mall.