Welcome to Taylor Swift’s favorite beach town
With summer around the corner, we’ve got beaches on the brain. So this weekend, The WeekEnder is headed to Westerly, Rhode Island. But this isn’t just any beach town: This happens to be Taylor Swift’s favorite beach town.
Westerly—which is composed of seven smaller hamlets, including Watch Hill, Weekapaug, and Misquamicut—is also home to creative talents like Kevin Lowther. Known as Big Lux, this hip-hop violinist and activist is a Westerly native who went to West Point, served in the Iraq War, moved to Miami, then came back home with a goal of making a difference. Besides being a full-time musician who performs everywhere from downtown’s historic United Theatre to Seoul, Korea (where he’s currently on tour), he’s also the vice president of the Westerly Town Council.
What Kevin likes about Westerly is what it doesn’t have: “You’re not going to see chain restaurants. You’re not going to see tall buildings. You’re not going to see a lot of the things that you see in other beach communities,” he says. “It feels so elemental and it feels like someplace you want to bring your family—a no-frills experience where you get to connect with a sense of place and with nature and you can leave everything else behind.”
That feeling is what helped attract Nancy Burns-Fusaro, the arts and culture editor at The Westerly Sun. She moved here 40 years ago with her husband, who is a native. A few other things that she loves about Westerly: “The people, the vibrant arts community, and the gorgeous beaches—some of the loveliest in the world,” says Nancy.
This is from The WeekEnder series: local insider guides for new destinations a short drive from New York City, delivered to your inbox twice a month. Sign up here!
If you’re interested in history, this area has lots of it. You can get the scoop from Bob Elmer, the hotel historian at the legendary Ocean House, which was originally built in 1868 by the son of Watch Hill’s first lighthouse keeper. “When the hotel first opened, it was known as the ‘Saint’s Rest’ because you were not allowed to drink, dance, or play cards here,” says Bob. “But that would change: Eventually, summer balls at the Ocean House became the social event during the Gilded Age.” These days, you can still feel that storied past, whether you’re staying at the property or just coming for a meal or a spa treatment.
The only problem with Westerly, according to Bob? “A weekend isn’t enough time.”
-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer
Where to stay
There aren’t many hotels in Westerly, but the spots on our list are loaded with style and grace.
For history buffs: Ocean House in Watch Hill - This landmark property opened in 1868 and attracted generations of families from across America. In 2010, a new (and even better) property was built with an exterior designed to look exactly like the original. For overnight guests, there are free amenities like history tours with Bob Elmer and art tours to see the hotel’s extensive collection, including the new Bemelmans Gallery with works by author and illustrator Ludwig Bemelmans. (Even day trippers can check out the gallery, if it’s not booked.)
For nature lovers: Weekapaug Inn in Weekapaug - Adventure buffs love this hotel overlooking Quonochontaug Pond and the Atlantic Ocean. There’s a full-time naturalist on staff who leads guided nature hikes, boating excursions, sunset Jeep safaris, bird watching, crabbing expeditions, and more.
For families: Watch Hill Inn in Watch Hill - In the heart of the Watch Hill village, this inn has contemporary residential-style suites that are ideal for family getaways. Boutiques, restaurants, and the longest continuously running carousel in the country are just steps away.
For sweethearts: Margin Street Inn in Westerly - Set on six acres of manicured grounds on the bank of the Pawcatuck River, this quintessential New England B&B is spread across two newly renovated 1849 houses.
Where to eat
There’s a lot of flavor in this small town. Here’s where the locals go to grab a bite.
Best breakfasts
Cooked Goose in Watch Hill - “A fantastic spot that’s only open for breakfast and lunch,” says Kevin Lowther. “Supposedly, it is Taylor Swift’s favorite restaurant. She doesn’t eat there, but she gets stuff boxed up to go back to the mansion.” Bob Elmer recommends the smoked salmon eggs Benedict.
Sift Bake Shop in Watch Hill - Bob Elmer’s daughter, Ebbie Young, and son-in-law, Adam Young (who cut his teeth as pastry chef at Ocean House) run this well-regarded bakery that started in Mystic. “People flock to the Watch Hill location, which opens on Memorial Day weekend,” says Nancy Burns-Fusaro.
Lunchtime
Bogue’s Alley in Pawcatuck - It's worth venturing over the bridge to Pawcatuck, Connecticut, which isn't technically part of Westerly, though it's connected in spirit. “The best deli around,” says Kevin, who recommends the Bear, an enormous sandwich made with corned beef, sliced potatoes, an over-easy egg, cheddar cheese, and pickles.
Joyce’s Everyday Gourmet in Westerly - Don’t miss the focaccia with green beans at this tiny spot with a few tables and a big take-out business. “The place for true food lovers,” says Nancy.
The Verandah at Ocean House in Watch Hill - A favorite summer destination for the sweeping views of the Atlantic from the outdoor terrace and a sea-to-table menu that showcases shellfish from nearby waters, as well as salads and sandwiches.
Westerly Packing in Westerly - “We have a special local dish—sopressata—that we call ‘soupy’ for short,” says Kevin. “It’s a spicy dried sausage that you can eat by itself or on a sandwich. Westerly Packing sells it by the stick.”
Casual bites
Amigos Taqueria Y Tequila in Westerly - “A way better Mexican restaurant than Westerly has any right to have,” says Kevin. “There’s a homeopathic margarita menu. My favorite: the anti-inflammatory green tea and ginger margarita.”
Hoof’s in Pawcatuck - Authentic Italian dishes with regional ingredients like lobster ravioli with cherry tomatoes, sautéed spinach, and artichokes.
Two Little Fish in Misquamicut - “A little seafood shack down at the beach,” says Kevin.
Nana’s in Westerly - An organic bakery and pizza shop where the chef-owner uses naturally leavened dough and fermentation. “It’s an experimental hotspot,” says Nancy.
Date night
Bridge in Westerly - “A great restaurant downtown right on the water with river views and an outdoor deck,” says Kevin. “You could paddle up in a kayak or on your paddle board.”
The Cafe in Westerly - This restaurant attached to the United Theatre is the place to have dinner after a movie or a show. "It’s bringing a classy urbanity that was missing in our dining and drink options," says Kevin.
Ella’s Fine Food and Drink in Westerly - James Beard Award-nominated chef-owner Jeanie Roland is known for her Asian-influenced French-cuisine and her starring moments in TV food shows. She competed in the Food Network’s Beat Bobby Flay—and won. “She was also in a competition to be an Iron Chef. She didn’t win. But if you’re in that level of competition, you've got your chops,” says Bob.
Olympia Tea Room in Watch Hill - “An iconic Watch Hill restaurant that has been serving guests since 1916,” says Bob. The simple dishes range from roasted clams linguini in a garlic white wine sauce to grilled sweet Italian sausage with roasted potatoes, broccolini and shaved parmesan.
The Restaurant at Weekapaug Inn in Weekapaug - Expect a warm and inviting setting with intimate dining rooms, cozy fireplaces, and scenic views. The modern interpretation of New England coastal cuisine showcases fresh ingredients, alongside an extensive wine list.
Drinks
The Tapped Apple Cidery & Winery in Westerly - “Fantastic flights of apple wine and cider,” says Kevin. “Order a soupy and cheese and wash it down with apple wine.”
Grey Sail Brewing in Westerly - “A wonderful tasting room and, weather permitting, pizza made in outdoor wood-burning ovens,” says Bob. “I’m partial to their Dave’s Coffee Stout.”
Perks & Corks Cafe in Westerly - “A martini bar that makes a killer espresso martini and has a limited but fun menu,” says Bob.
Sweets
St. Clair Annex in Watch Hill - The Nicholas family has owned this ice cream institution since 1887. “People get very sentimental and emotional about their first visit to St. Clair’s for the season,” says Nancy. “Their peach ice cream is legendary.”
What to do
Outdoors
Here are just a few of the many places to take in the great outdoors.
Misquamicut State Beach in Misquamicut - This gorgeous beach also has a cultural angle. “There are all kinds of festivals in the parking lot in the fall and spring,” says Kevin Lowther, whose band will be playing in the Misquamicut SpringFest on May 12.
Napatree Point Conservation Area in Watch Hill - Stroll along this pristine sandbar that stretches a couple miles into the water. “At the end of Napatree are the remnants of Fort Mansfield, which was built at the end of the 1800’s to protect the east end of Long Island during the Spanish American War,” says Bob Elmer.
Paddle Surf RI in Watch Hill - “They offer surfing lessons, surf camps, and paddle board rentals on the Puck River,” says Kevin. “It’s a hidden gem.”
Watch Hill Lighthouse in Watch Hill - Check out the museum at this jewel of a lighthouse that has provided a beacon for ships since 1745.
Wilcox Park in Westerly - “This extraordinary park is the heart of the community and was designed by a student of Frederick Law Olmsted,” says Nancy Burns-Fusaro. “It’s a mini Central Park and it’s gorgeous, with a pond, a fountain, hills, and a library.
Arts & culture
With its rich history and cultural offerings, Westerly has plenty to keep visitors entertained.
Artists' Cooperative Gallery in Westerly - “Chuck Royce, co-owner of the Ocean House, and our former state senator Dennis Algiere salvaged the old railroad station in downtown Westerly and turned it into this gallery with rotating exhibits,” says Nancy Burns-Fusaro.
Babcock-Smith House in Westerly - This historic house was originally owned by Joshua Babcock, who was friends with Benjamin Franklin. “Not surprisingly, Babcock was Westerly's first postmaster and the post office was in his house,” says Bob Elmer. In 1846, the property was bought by Orlando Smith, who discovered granite. “Many of the Civil War Monuments, especially at Gettysburg are made from Westerly granite.”
Chorus of Westerly in Westerly - “This is a centerpiece in Westerly that has been in existence for close to 50 years,” says Nancy. “Every summer, they have a huge free outdoor concert in Wilcox Park that attracts people from all over the region.”
The Colonial Theater in Westerly - “For more than 20 years, it has done outdoor productions, à la New York City’s Shakespeare in the Park,” says Nancy.
Knickerbocker Café in Westerly - “The most historic music venue in town and the birthplace of the East Coast blues,” says Kevin Lowther. “A band called Roomful of Blues put them on the map. I play there, too.”
Granite Theater in Westerly - “An intimate theater in a gorgeous recently renovated space that puts on shows like The Lion King Jr. for children, Neil Simon plays, and other light fair,” says Nancy.
The United Theatre in Westerly - “This theater in downtown Westerly built in 1929 is the anchor of the new downtown area, with movie theaters, a 600-seat auditorium that hosts concerts, a gallery that showcases local artists, and a youth music program that is wildly successful,” says Kevin.
Shopping
We got Nancy Burns-Fusaro to share her shopping shortlist.
Savoy Bookshop in Westerly - “People drive from all over to go to this fabulous bookstore. Don’t miss the summer author series run by Deborah Royce, co-owner of the Ocean House.”
Woodmansee’s in Westerly - “This multigenerational shop is great for gifts and beautiful clothing. Owner Maria’s daughter, Anna, also runs a shop next door called Woodees that has fun and fashionable looks, jewelry, and accessories.”
Christina’s in Westerly - “A wonderful clothing store in downtown Westerly that also has a summertime location in Watch Hill.”
RI Boutique in Watch Hill - “A cute boutique with classic styles run by a Westerly native.”